



















O^*^- 



THE 
NEW ENGLAND 
COOK BOOK 



THE 

NEW ENGLAND 
COOK BOOK 



BY 



HELEN S. WRIGHT 




NEW YORK 

DUFFIELD Si COMPANY 

1912 



<\\ 






Copyright 1912, 
By DUFFIELD & COMPANY 



//^ 



Contents 



PAGE 



Introduction 










. . . 






xxix 


SOUPS 


Asparagus Soup ...... i., , ,., ,., 1 


Brown Gravy Soup 










• • !•> , 


»i 


1 


Calf's Head Soup 










, , 




»i 


s 


Carrot Soup 










, , ^ 


»j : 




3 


Celery Soup 










• l»i 






4 


Corn Soup . 










, , 


►; ; 




5 


Green Pea Soup 










• ; '•■ 


►; 1 




5 


Oyster Soup 










,, j„ „ 


»i ; 




6 


Ox-Head Soup . 










, ., 






7 


Ox-Tail Soup . 










. • .1 






8 


Old Peas Soup . 








, , 


•- k»J .« 


! 


„ 


10 


Pigeon Soup 






> ( 


►, I 


•; i«j u 


»1 i« 


•1 !• 


. 10 


Veal Stock . 






,. . 




». fi 


•t i»i 


. 11 


Venison Soup 








, , 


»■ i»j .t 


►i u 


•J .< 


11 



EGGS 



Eggs and Bacon Ragout 
Eggs Boiled .... 
Eggs Bourgeoise 
Eggs Buttered . 



12 
12 
13 
13 



m 



vi The New England Cook Book 

PAGE 

Eggs and Cream 13 

Eggs en Surprise 14 

Eggs Fried 14 

Eggs Fried and Minced Ham . . ... 14 

Egg Fritters 15 

Egg Frizzle 15 

Eggs Frothed 16 

Ham and Eggs 16 

Omelet, 1, 2, 3, 4 16-18 

Omelet with Kidney of Veal 18 

Omelet au Naturel 18 

To Keep Eggs 19 

FISH AND SHELL-FISH 

Fish ConsommS .., . 20 

Clam PurSe 20 

New England Clam Chowder 21 

Codfish Balls 21 

Creamed Salt Cod 22 

Cod Pie 22 

Codfish Relish, 1, 2 22-23 

Soft Shell Crabs 23 

Devil Crabs 23 

Escalloped Fish 24 

Fish RechauffS 24 

Flounders Boiled 25 

Fried Eels 25 

Herrings to Bake . 25 

Herrings Boiled 26 

Herrings to Fry 26 



Contents 



Vll 



Herrings, Red 

Salt Herrings 

Lobster, or Crabs Buttered 

Lobster X la Braise 

Lobster Fricassee . 

Lobster Newburgh 

Lobster Patties, 1, 2 

Lobster Pie . 

Mackerel Baked 

Mackerel Boiled 

Mackerel Broiled 

Oysters Baked in Shells 

Oyster Bisque . 

Fried Oysters 

Scalloped Oysters 

Spiced Oysters . 

Stewed Oysters, 1, 

Oyster Pie . 

Perch Boiled . 

Perch Broiled . 

Perch with Wine 

Pickerel Baked 

Baked Pike . 

Boiled Pike . 

Salmon Baked 

Salmon Boiled 

Fried Scallops 

Shad Baked . 

Shad Roe 

Smelts 

Broiled Smelts 



viii The New England Cook Book 

PAGE 

Sturgeon 41 

To Collar Trout 42 

To Broil Trout . ^ ...... . 42 

To Fry Trout 42 

Turbot, Baked 43 

TuRBOT, Breaded 43 

TuRBOT^ Stuffed and Baked ...... 43 

TuRBOT, Grilled 44 

TuRBOT, WITH White Sauce 44 

VEGETABLES 

Asparagus 45 

Asparagus^ Boiled 45 

Asparagus and Eggs 45 

Boston Baked Beans 46 

Beets 46 

Cucumbers 47 

Cabbage 47 

Cauliflowers 47 

Shelled Beans 48 

String Beans 48 

Boiled Corn 48 

Corn Oysters 49 

Egg Plant 49 

Greens 49 

Macaroni 50 

Macaroni Dressed Sweet 50 

Macaroni Gratin 50 

Macaroni Timbale 51 

Stewed Mushrooms 51 



Contents ix 

PAGE 

Okras 51 

Onions 52 

Onions, Plain Boiled ........ 52 

Onions, Roast 52 

Onions, Stewed . . . ,. . . . . . 53 

Parsnips ,. . . 53 

Peas ...... i.. i., i.j ..• i.. i.. . ,. 53 

To Boil Potatoes . . ;. r. ..... 5^ 

Potato Balls . ;. i.i i.i ci i. i. i. . . 55 

Baked Potatoes . i., ,., i.. . .... 55 

Mashed Potatoes . .. .., ,. . . .. . . 55 

Potatoes to Fry . .i i. !.. . • . . . 5Q 

Potato Fritters ...... ,., ... 5Q 

Potatoes, Fried in Ribbons 57 

Potatoes, Fried Whole . . .. . . . . 57 

Potatoes, Scalloped .....> ,. ,. . . 58 

Potato Snow . ... ,-. i, i., .. . . 58 

Sweet Potatoes . . ., .i i.i i.j ■,•■. . . 58 

Rice Cheese . . . . i. i.i :••, m i*i . . 59 

Rice Croquettes . . . ., . r.i w .i . 59 

Salsify, or Oyster Plant, 1, 2, 3, 4 . . . . 60 

Succotash , i., i.i i.i i. ,., 6l 

Summer Squash ......; ;.; .... 61 

Winter Squash .... .. :., ,. ... 62 

Spinage .: ., I.I ;.i > . 62 

Turnips .• :. . . 63 

Young White Turnips ........ QS 

Turnip Tops ,. 63 

Turnips, to Boil 64 

Mashed Turnips 64? 



xii The New England Cook Book 

PAGE 

Winter Hotch-Potch 97 

Veal Cheese 98 

Veal, Cold Dressed 98 

Veal Cones 99 

Veal Cutlets, 1, 2 99-100 

Veal Forcemeat 100 

Veal Roll 101 

Veal Sausages 101 

Veal Fillet, Stewed 101 

Veal Semelles 102 

Veal Sweetbreads, Roasted 102 

Velout^ 103 

Baked Pork and Beans 104 

POULTRY AND GAME 

Capon 106 

Chicken Creme 106 

Chicken Curry 107 

Chicken Baked in Rice 107 

Chickens Fricassee 108 

Chicken Pie 108 

Coddled Birds 109 

Duck Pie 109 

Roasted Ducks 110 

Tremont Duckling 110 

Wild Ducks Ill 

Fowl, Broiled Ill 

Fowl with its Own Gravy Ill 

Fowl X la Hollandaise 112 

Fowl Boiled with Rice 112 



Contents xm 

PAGE 

Fowl Roasted with Chestnuts 113 

GiBLET Pie 113 

Goose, Roasted 114 

Hare 114 

Hare, Jugged 115 

Larks Il6 

Pigeon Pie Il6 

Pigeons with Rice and Parmesan Cheese . . 117 

Broiled Pheasants 118 

To Dress Plovers 118 

Quail 118 

Roasted Stuffed Quail . . . . . . . 119 

Quails, Roasted , . . . . 119 

Quails, Stewed ...... .^ . :. . . 120 

Rabbit, Broiled 120 

Rabbits in a Fricassee ......... 120 

Rabbits, Roasted 121 

Squabs, Baked .......... 122 

Squabs, Roasted 122 

Turkey, Hashed, 1, 2 , . . 123 

Roasted Turkey 123 

Turkey, Stuffed with Sausages and Chestnuts 124 

Wild Goose 124 

Woodcocks , . 125 

Woodcock Salmis ....-.• ,. ,. ., 125 

Woodcocks in a Minute . . ., .. . ;. . 125 

Woodcocks in Gravy .. :. .. ... i., i.j i. ,. 126 



xiv The Neto England Cook Book 



SAUCES FOR MEATS, POULTRY, 
FISH AND GAME 



Anchovy Sauce . 

Beef-Gravy Sauce 

Cream Sauce 

Chestnut Sauce for Roast Turkey 

Currant Sauce for Venison 

Brown Sauce 

Drawn Butter . 

Egg Sauce 

Fish Gravy . 

GiBLET Sauce 

Horseradish Sauce 

Sauce for Fish . 

Mint Sauce, 1, 2 

Mock Oyster Sauce 

Mushroom Sauce, 1, 2 



Lobster Sauce . 
Onion Sauce 
Orange Gravy Sauce 
Oyster Sauce 
Piquant Sauce, 1, 2 
Sharp Sauce, for Venison 
Sauce for Steaks or Chops 
Superlative Sauce, 1, 2 
Tartare Sauce, 1, 2 . 
Truffle Sauce . 
White Sauce for Fish . 
White Onion Sauce 



PAGE 

. 127 

. 127 

. 128 

. 129 

. 129 

. 129 

. 130 

. 130 

. 130 

. 131 

. 131 

. 131 

. 132 

. 132 

132-133 

. 133 

. 134i 

. 134 

. 135 

135-136 

. 136 

. 137 

137-138 

138-139 

. 139 

. 139 

. 140 





Con 


tents 








XV 








PAGB 


White Sauce, for Fowls 


OR Turkey . 


. 


140 


Wine Sauce for Venison 


OR Hare . 


• 


141 


SALADS 






Asparagus Salad . . 




1 


142 


Berkshire Salad . . 


.• • 




! I»t H 


■•1 


142 


Boston Salad 


•', !•< 




.. ;»i 


, , 


142 


Cauliflower Salad 


• {•: '.I 




.: 1. 


. 


142 


Chicken Salad . . :. 


!•: :•; « 


»: « 


!•! H 


, 


143 


Corn Salad . 




!•: I*; 1 


t « 


1 :»j • 


. 


144 


Crab Salad . 


• :•. 


t«j i»i 1 


• > K 


1 ;•; i< 


. 


144 


Fruit Salad . 


• i»i 


i»j i»j 




►. l»J « 


, 


144 


Herring Salad 


• !•; 


:•< :•. ,« 


> l< 




. 


145 


Lenox Salad 










, 


145 


Lobster Salad 










, 


145 


Maine Salad 










. 


146 


Shaker Salad 










. 


146 


Shrimp Salad 










146 


-147 


Spinage Salad 










, 


147 


Stuffed Tomato Salad 








, 


147 


Tomato and Green Pepper Salad 




. 


147 


Vegetable Salad . 


. . . 




• 


148 


SALAD DRESSINGS 






Dressing for Cold Slaw 


• . • • • 


, , 


149 


Chive Dressing . 


• • • • • 


, , 


149 


Curry Dressing . . . 


••• ■• • «' • 


, , 


149 


French Dressing ^ 


■• • . • • 


, . 


150 


Mayonnaise Dressing, 1, 


2 .... . 


, 150 


-151 


Salad Dressing . . 


> '. • • • 


, 


151 


Sauterne Dressi] 


SG . . 


• ■• 




> ■• •« 


, 


152 



xvi The New England Cook Book 



DESSERTS, PUDDINGS, PIES 
AND TARTS 

PAGE 

Apple Custard . . . . ..... . . . 153 

Boiled Apple Pudding . . 153 

Apple Sauce 154 

Custard 154 

Berry Pudding, 1, 2 154-155 

Baked Indian Pudding, 1, 2 155-156 

Boiled Indian Pudding 156 

Boston Pudding 157 

CocoANUT Pudding 158 

Floating Island 159 

Fruit Suet Pudding 159 

Mush, or Hasty Pudding 159 

Orange Pudding ......... l60 

Railroad Pudding l6l 

Rice Pudding l6l 

Boiled Plum Pudding ........ 162 

Sago Pudding 162 

Salem Pudding 162 

Sweet Potato Pudding 163 

Suet Pudding . . . l64 

Plain Paste . 164 

Tart Paste, for Family Pies 165 

Apple Tart, Creamed , .... 165 

Cherry Tart 166 

Cranberry Tart 166 

Currant Tart 166 

Tartlets l67 



Contents xvii 

PAGE 

Tart of Preserved Fruit, 1, 2 . . . . 167-168 

Tarts of Ripe Fruits 168 

Rhubarb Tart 169 

Mince Meat 169 

Trifle 170 

Whim Wham 170 

SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS AND 
OTHER DESSERTS 

Lemon Sauce 171 

Pudding Sauce 171 

Hard Sauce 171 

Brandy Sauce 172 

Pineapple Sauce 172 

Strawberry Sauce 172 

Icing for Fruit Tarts, Puffs, or Pastry . . 172 

FROZEN DESSERTS, ICE 
CREAMS AND SHERBETS 

Ice Creams 173 

Vanilla Cream 173 

Chocolate 174? 

Strawberry 174 

Orange Water Ice 174 

Coffee Jelly 175 

Lemon Jelly 175 

Wine Jelly 176 

Grape Sherbet 176 

Lemon Sherbet 176 



xvm Tlie New England Cook Book 

PAGE 

Milk Sherbet 177 

Pineapple Sherbet 177 

Charlotte Russe 178 

Little Creams of Chestnuts 179 

BREAD, BISCUITS AND CAKES 

Bread 180 

Bread Sticks >; ,., i. . 181 

Cinnamon or Currant Buns . .... . 181 

Boston Corn Cake ,. . 181 

Buttermilk Biscuit • . . 182 

Cream Biscuit 182 

Cream of Tartar Biscuit Without Milk . . 183 

Fried Biscuit 183 

Boston Brown Bread, !;> 2, 3 184-185 

Graham Bread 186 

Indian Loaf 186 

Litchfield Crackers 187 

Parker House Rolls 187 

Rye Bread 188 

Albany Breakfast Cakes ....... 189 

Bridget's Bread Cake ........ 189 

Caraway Cakes, 1,2. . . . . . . . 190 

Crullers 191 

Doughnuts > .. . . . 191 

Raised Doughnuts 192 

FOURRES 192 

Apple Sauce Cake 193 

Fruit Cake Without Eggs 193 

Ginger Bread 194 



Contents xix 

PAGE 

GiNGERNUTS 194< 

Ginger Snaps 195 

Golden Cake 195 

Silver Cake 196 

Indian Bannock 196 

Jenny Lind 197 

Nun's Beads 197 

New England Squash Cakes 198 

Maple Cake 198 

Nut Loaf 199 

Old Hartford Election Cake 199 

Plum Cake 200 

Pound Cake 201 

Sachem's Head Corn Cake 201 

Sally Lunn, 1, 2 202 

Tipsy Cake 203 

Walnut Hill Doughnuts 203 

Coffee Filling 203 

Chocolate Filling 204 

Lemon Filling 204 

Lemon Filling and Meringue 205 

BEVERAGES 

Coffee 206 

Tea 206 

Russian Tea 206 

Tea Punch . 207 

Cocoa 207 

Grape Nectar 208 

Grape Punch 208 



XX The New England Cook Book 

PAGE 

Old Medford Punch 208 

Raspberry Vinegar 209 

Webster's Punch 209 

Flip 209 

Syllabubs 210 

Common Syllabub 210 

Syllabub^ Whipt, 1, 2 210-211 

Syllabub, Stratfordshire 211 

Somersetshire Syllabub . 211 

Beef Tea 212 

Bruiss 212 

PICKLES 

Artichokes 213 

To Keep Artichokes in Pickle 213 

To Pickle Asparagus, 1, 2 213-214 

To Pickle Barberries, 1,2 214 

To Pickle French Beans 215 

To Pickle Kidney Beans 215 

Beet Roots 216 

To Pickle Broom Buds 216 

Pickled Cabbage 216 

To Pickle Red Cabbage 217 

Red Cabbage 217 

Old-Fashioned Recipe for Catsup, 1, 2, 3 . 218-219 

Cauliflowers 219 

Salted Cherries 219 

Chili Sauce 220 

Chow-Chow 220 

Chutney Leaves 221 



Contents xxi 

PAGE 

Chutney Sauce 221 

To Pickle Codlins 222 

Cold Pickles 222 

cornichons 223 

To Mango Cucumbers 224 

To Pickle Cucumbers 224 

To Pickle Cucumbers in Slices .... 224 

Spiced Currants, I, 2, 3 225-226 

Dill Pickles 226 

Dutch Pickle 226 

To Pickle Elder Buds 227 

English Salad Pickle 227 

French Pickle . 228 

Garlic and Eschalots 228 

Gherkins or Young Cucumbers 228 

Spiced Grape, 1, 2, 3 229-230 

Green Tomato Pickles 230 

Green Tomato Soy 231 

A Pickle in Imitation of Indian Bambol . . 231 

Indian Pickle 232 

Indian Relish 234 

To Make English Catsup 235 

To Pickle Lemons 235 

To Pickle Lobsters 236 

To Pickle Mangoes 236 

To Make Melon Mangoes 237 

Melons, Mangoes and Long Cucumbers . . 238 

Sweet Pickled Melons 238 

Mushrooms 239 

Mushroom Catsup 240 

To Pickle Mushrooms 240 



xxii The New England Cook Book 

PAGE 

Mustard Pickle 241 

To Pickle Nasturtiums 241 

To Pickle Nasturtium Buds 241 

Pickled Nuts (Butternuts and Walnuts) . . 242 

Onions 243 

To Pickle Small Onions 243 

To Pickle Oysters 243 

To Pickle Parsley Green 244 

Pickled Peaches 244 

Sweet Pickled Plums or Peaches .... 245 

Pickled Pears 246 

Sweet Pickled Pears 246 

Pepper Relish 247 

PlCALILLI 247 

Pickled Plums 248 

Spiced Plums 248 

Sweet Pickled Plums 248 

Pickle Quince 249 

To Pickle Radishes 249 

To Pickle Radish Pods 249 

Pickled Raisins 250 

Salamagundi 250 

To Pickle Samphire^ 1, 2 250-251 

Shirley Sauce 251 

To Pickle Sprats for Anchovies .... 252 

To Pickle Sparrows or Squab-Pigeons . . 252 

Chopped Tomato Pickle 253 

Sweet Pickled Tomatoes, 1, 2 . . . . 253-254 

Tomato Mangoes .... .. . ,., . . 254 

Tomato Relish ...... ., ,.. . ,. . . 254 



Contents xxiii 

PAGE 

To Pickle Walnuts 255 

Pickled Watermelon Rind ^56 

Sweet Pickled Watermelon Rind .... 256 

Worcestershire Sauce . . . . . . . 257 

PRESERVES 

Apricot or Any Plum Jam 258. 

Apricot Marmalade 259 

To Preserve Apricots 259 

To Preserve Barberries 259 

Barberry Sauce with Sweet Apple .... 260 

Imitation Bar-le-Duc 260 

Bramble and Apple 261 

Preserved Cherries, 1, 2 261 

Cherries in Brandy 262 

To Make Marmalade of Cherries .... 262 

To Preserve Cherries Without Boiling . . 262 

To Preserve Green Codlings 263 

Compote of Chestnuts 263 

To Preserve Citron Melon 264 

Cranberry Jelly, 1, 2 264 

Currant Jelly 265 

To Dry Currants in Bunches 265 

To Preserve Cucumbers, 1, 2 266 

To Preserve Small Cucumbers 267 

To Preserve Currants in Jelly .... 268 

Currants Preserved Without Cooking . . . 268 

Preserve Currants in Bunches ..... 268 

To Bottle Damsons or Gooseberries * . . 269 

Damson Cheese . ., ,. . ..i .., i.. .„ • . 269 



xxiv The New England Cook Book 

PAGE 

To Preserve Damsons Whole 270 

Figs and Walnuts 271 

Four-Fruit Jam 271 

Gel]^e Des Quartre Fruits 271 

To Preserve Ginger 272 

To Preserve Gooseberries 273 

To Preserve Gooseberries in Hops . . . 273 

To Make Gooseberry Jam 274« 

Gooseberry Jam 274 

Grape Marmalade 274 

Jams 275 

To Make Jelly 275 

Lemon Preserve 276 

Marmalade 276 

To Make White Marmalade 277 

Vegetable Marrow 277 

To Preserve Mulberries Whole 277 

Orange Marmalade 278 

Oriental Marmalade 278 

To Preserve Oranges Whole, 1, 2 . . . . 279 

To Make White Quince Paste 280 

Brandy Peaches 281 

Peach Marmalade 281 

Compote of Pears 282 

To Preserve Green Pineapples 282 

Preserved Pineapple, 1, 2 283-284 

To Preserve Golden Pippins 284 

Plum Compote 285 

To Preserve Black Pear-Plums .... 285 

To Preserve. Plums Green 286 

To Preserve Green Plums 287 



Contents xxv 

PAGE 

To Preserve White Pear-Plums .... 287 

Preserve Pumpkin 288 

To Make White Jelly of Quinces . . . 289 

To Make Quince Marmalade 289 

To Preserve Whole Quinces White . . . 290 

Raspberry Jam, 1, 2 290,291 

To Preserve Raspberries in Jelly . . . .291 

Rhubarb Jam 291 

Rhubarb Marmalade 292 

To Preserve Sprigs Green 292 

Strawberries . . . 293 

Strawberry Jam 293 

Strawberry Jelly 293 

Strawberry Marmalade 294 

Strawberries, Raspberries, Gooseberries and 

Currants 294 

To Make Syrup of Orange Peel 294 

Syrup for Preserves 295 

Green Tomato Preserve 295 

Tomato Marmalade, 1, 2 296 

CANDIES AND CONSERVES 

Burnt Almonds 297 

To pRicAssfE Almonds . . . . . . . 297 

To Parch Almonds 298 

To Make Almond Wafers 298 

To Candy Angelica 298 

To Make Apricot Chips 299 

To Dry Apricots Like Prunellos .... 299 

Barley Sugar 300 



xxvi The New England Cook Book 

PAGE 

Barley Sugar Drops 300 

To Conserve Cherries 301 

Chocolate Caramels^ 1, 2 .... . 301,302 

Chocolate Cream Candy . 302 

Chocolate Creams 302 

Chocolate Drops 303 

Cocoanut Candy 303 

Cream Candy 303 

Everton Taffy Candy, 1^ 2 304 

Fig Candy 304 

Tomato Figs .......... 305 

To Candy Flowers 305 

To Candy Any Sort of Flowers .... 306 

To Make Candy Cakes of Flowers . . . 306 

Fondant 307 

Fruit Candy 307 

Candied Fruit 308 

To Candy Any Fruit 309 

Marshmallow Fudge 309 

Green Gages Preserved in Syrup .... 310 

Ginger Candy 310 

Ginger Lozenge Candy 311 

Lemon Candy 311 

Lemon Chips 311 

Lemon Drops 312 

Maple Sugar Candy with Nuts 313 

To Make Marchpane Unboiled 313 

Marrons Glac£s 314 

Molasses Candy, 1, 2, 3 314-315 

Nougat 315 

Nut Candy . 316 



Contents xxvii 

PAGE 

Orange Drops 316 

To Make Orange Chips 317 

To Candy Orange Flowers, 1, 2 . . . 317-318 

To Make Pastils 318 

GLAcf Nuts 318 

Glace Peaches 319 

Peanut Brittle 319 

Peppermint Drops 319 

PiNOCHI 320 

Popcorn Balls 320 

Candied Popcorn 321 

Crystallized Popcorn 321 

Prune Dainty . 322 

To Make Conserve of Red Roses .... 322 

To Make Rose Drops 322 

Scotch Butter Candy 323 

Sugared Dates 323 

To Make Sugar of Roses 323 

To Clarify Sugar for Candies 324 

To Boil Sugar Candy High 324 

Taffy 325 

Taffy Candy 325 

Turkish Delight 326 

Common Twist Candy ......... 326 

English Walnut Creams . ... ,.: . . 327 

Creamed Walnuts . . . ...... . 327 



Introduction 

Kindly lend a hand and help me pull from under 
those dusty eaves that old haircloth trunk. How 
the key grates in the rusty padlock ; lift the lid 
gently lest the creaking hinges snap. What is 
that pungent sweetness that greets you? The aroma 
of her spice bag; and the withered stalks and 
shriveled leaves that lie scattered so profusely ; sweet 
lavender and thyme. 

Here under this yellow bit of homespun linen is 
her pelerine, and this her callashe, and these her lace 
mitts and pattens. 

Lift carefully and reverently, for underneath is 
her wedding-gown of softest muslin, short-waisted, 
with tiny puffs for sleeves, a broad satin fold about 
the hem — and this rare lace, her veil. Here is her 
jewel-box, and in it the brooch she wore, and these, 
her corals. What are those, you ask. His knee- 
buckles and the jeweled buttons of his coat. 

Let us look again into the trunk ; here is his ruffled 
shirt, and there his satin small clothes and brocaded 
vest, and this bit of black, the ribbon that tied his 
powdered hair. 

xxix 



XXX Introduction 

You have found some old books and papers. An 
old commission dated 1758, with Pownall's signature 
and the seal of George II. 

Here is a Salem Gazette, 17 — , but the date has 
been obliterated. 

And there is a book of recipes, written in her fine 
small hand, and this well-worn book, her " House- 
wife's Manual " ; against the margin are comments 
of her own : — " John liked this " ; " This is very good, 
I made some last autumn and found it excellent." 

" Last autumn ! " The past autumn of a hundred 
years, but she assures us the recipe is excellent, and I 
take her word. Yes, you agree, the old recipes were 
good. Did I hear you say your grandmother made 
the best preserves you ever tasted from the recipes her 
grandmother had taught her? Do you remember 
that jam we used to have on thick slices of delicious 
bread.? And those big green pickled limes that we 
used to steal and carry to school in coarse brown 
paper, and surreptitiously suck behind our desks? 
Did you not love the barley sugar and the march- 
pane that grandmother would smuggle into us? 

You who prize an old brass kettle, a pewter mug, 
a compote dish of rare old china, because tradition 
clusters round it, because some ancestor has used it, 
may enjoy these old-fashioned sweets and dainties. 
Here they are, these old-time recipes, and each year 
the luscious fruits and fragrant flowers of which 



Introduction xxxi 

many are composed, bloom as temptingly and cheer- 
fully as they did centuries ago. Perhaps you can 
make something your John will like, or mayhap you 
will be content to write upon the margin of your 
volume, "By their fruits ye shall judge them." 



THE NEW ENGLAND 
COOK BOOK 

Soups 
ASPARAGUS SOUP 

This is made with the points of asparagus, in the 
same manner as the green peas soup is with peas. 
Let half the asparagus be rubbed through a sieve, and 
the other cut in pieces about an inch long, and boiled 
till done enough, and sent up in the soup. To make 
2 quarts, there must be 1 pint of heads to thicken 
it, and ^ pint cut in ; take care to preserve these 
green and a little crisp. This soup is sometimes 
made by adding the asparagus heads to common 
peas soup. 

BROWN GRAVY SOUP 

Take 8 pounds of a leg or shin of beef, cut off 
the meat in bits, rub the bottom of the pot with 

1 



2 The New England Cook Booh 

butter, put in the meat, let It brown, turning it 
constantly, break the bone and take out the mar- 
row, which may be kept for a pudding, but it is 
considered better than butter to brown the meat with ; 
put to it 8 quarts of cold water, and the bones ; 
when it boils, skim it perfectly clean, and add 3 
good-sized red onions, one carrot cut in three, -J 
head of celery, a small handful of whole black and 
Jamaica pepper mixed; let this boil very gently ten 
or twelve hours, closely covered; strain it through 
a colander, and then through a hair sieve, into a 
large pan, to be kept for use. Return the meat and 
bones into the pot with 2 quarts of hot water; 
let it boil one and a half hours, and strain it off. 
This makes good stock for gravies, stews, or any 
made dishes. 

When it is to be boiled to send to table, first boil 
vermicelli, or macaroni, in a little salt and water, 
till tender; strain it, and add it to the soup just be- 
fore serving. This soup is quite pure, and requires 
no clearing. It is a most convenient thing to have 
in a house in cold weather, as it is always ready 
for use; and, served with dry toast to eat with it, 
makes an acceptable luncheon. 

The trimmings of meat, giblets, and bones, may 
be boiled with the beef for this soup. 



Soups 3 

CALF'S HEAD, OR MOCK 
TURTLE SOUP 

Parboil a calf's head, take off the skin and cut 
it in bits about an inch and a half square, cut the 
fleshy parts in bits, take out the black part of the 
eyes, and cut the rest in rings, skin the tongue, and 
cut it in slices, add it all to 3 quarts of good stock, and 
season it with cayenne, 2 or 3 blades of mace, salt, 
the peel of ^ lemon, and ^ pint of white wine, 
with about a dozen of force-meat balls ; stew all 
this an hour and a half; rub down with a little cold 
water, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well amongst it 
^ pint of the soup, and then stir it into the pot; 
put in the juice of | lemon, and the hard-boiled yolks 
of 8 eggs; let it simmer for ten minutes, and then 
put it all in the tureen. 

CARROT SOUP 

Scrape and wash J dozen large carrots; peel off 
the red outside (which is the only part used for this 
soup), put it into a gallon stewpan, with 1 head of 
celery, and an onion, cut into thin pieces ; take 2 
quarts of beef, veal, or mutton broth, or if you have 
any cold roast beef bones (or liquor, in which mut- 
ton or beef has been boiled), you may make very 
good broth for this soup. When you have put the 



4 The New England Cook Booh 

broth to the roots, cover the stewpan close, and set 
it on a slow stove for 2j hours, when the carrots will 
be soft enough (some cooks put in teacup ful of 
bread crumbs); boil for 2 or 3 minutes; rub it 
through a tamis, or hair sieve, with a wooden spoon, 
and add as much broth as will make it a proper 
thicknessj i.e., almost as thick as peas soup: put 
it into a clean stewpan ; make it hot ; season it with 
a little salt, and send it up with some toasted bread, 
cut into pieces ^ inch square. Some put it into the 
soup ; but the best way is to send it up on a plate, as 
a side dish. 



CELERY SOUP 

Split "I dozen heads of celery into slips about 9, 
inches long ; wash them well ; lay them on a hair sieve 
to drain, and put them into 3 quarts of clear gravy 
soup in a gallon soup-pot ; set it by the side of the 
fire to stew very gently till the celery is tender (this 
will take about 1 hour). If any scum rises, take it 
off; season with a little salt. 

Obs. — When celery cannot be procured, ^ drachm 
of the seed, pounded fine, which may be considered 
as the essence of celery, put in ^ hour before the 
soup is done, and a little sugar, will give as much 
flavor to J gallon of soup as 2 heads of celery weigh- 
ing 7 ounces, or add a little essence of celery. 



Soups 5 

COllNSOUP 

Cut the corn off the cob, and boil the cobs ^ hour 
in the water ; then take them out, put in the corn and 
boil it 20 minutes or ^ hour. If there is 1 quart of 
the corn and water, add 1 pint of new milk, with 
salt, pepper, and 1 or 2 beaten eggs. Continue the 
boiling a few minutes, and thicken it with a little 
flour. 

GREEN PEA SOUP 

A peck of peas will make you a good tureen of soup. 
In shelling them, put the older ones in 1 basin, and 
the young ones in another, and keep out a pint of 
them, and boil them separately to put into your soup 
when it is finished: put a large saucepan on the fire 
half full of water; when it boils, put the peas in, 
with a handful of salt; let them boil till they are 
done enough, i.e., from 20 to 30 minutes, according 
to their age and size; then drain them in a colander, 
and put them into a clean gallon stewpan, and S 
quarts of plain veal or mutton broth (drawn from 
meat without any spices or herbs, etc., which would 
overpower the flavor of the soup) ; cover the stew- 
pan close, and set it over a slow fire to stew gently 
for an hour; add a teacupful of bread crumbs, and 
then rub it through a tamis into another stewpan ; stir 



6 The New England Cook Book 

it with a wooden spoon, and if it is too thick, add 
a httle more broth; have ready boiled as for eating, 
a pint of young peas, and put them into the soup; 
season with a httle salt and sugar. 

Some cooks, while this soup is going on, slice a 
couple of cucumbers (as you would for eating) ; take 
out the seeds ; lay them on a cloth to drain, and then 
flour them, and fry them a light brown in a little but- 
ter; put them into the soup the last thing before it 
goes to table. 

If the soup is not green enough, pound a handful 
of pea-hulls or spinach, and squeeze the juice 
through a cloth into the soup; some leaves of mint 
may be added, if approved. 

OYSTER SOUP 

3 pints of large fresh oysters, 

S tablespoonfuls of butter, rolled in flour, 

A bunch of sweet herbs, 

A saucer full of chopped celery, 

1 quart of rich milk. 

Pepper to your taste. 

Take the liquor of 3 pints of oysters. Strain it, 
and set it on the fire. Put into it, pepper to your 
taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter rolled in flour, and 
a bunch of sweet marjoram and other pot-herbs, with 
a saucer full of chopped celery. When it boils, add 



Soups 7 

a quart of rich milk — and as soon as it boils again, 
take out the herbs, and put in the oysters just before 
you send it to table. Boiling them in the soup will 
shrivel them and destroy their taste. Leave in the 
celery. Toast several slices of bread. Cut them 
into small squares, and put them into the soup before 
it goes to table. 



OX-HEAD SOUP 

Should be prepared the day before it is to be eaten, 
as you cannot cut the meat off the head into neat 
mouthf uls unless it is cold ; therefore, the day before 
you want this soup, put ^ ox-cheek into a tub of 
cold water to soak for a couple of hours ; then break 
the bones that have not been broken at the butcher's, 
and wash it very well in warm water; put it into 
a pot, and cover it with cold water; when it boils, 
skim it very clean, and then put in 1 head of celery, 
a couple of carrots, a turnip, 2 large onions, 2 
dozen berries of black pepper, same of allspice, and 
a bundle of sweet herbs, such as marjoram, lemon, 
thyme, savory, and a handful of parsley; cover the 
soup-pot close, and set it on a slow fire; take off the 
scum, which will rise when it is coming to a boil, and 
set it by the fireside to stew very gently for about 3 
hours; take out the head, lay it on a dish, pour the 
soup through a fine sieve into a stoneware pan, and 



8 The New England Cook Booh 

set it and the head by in a cool place till the next 
day; then cut the meat into neat mouthfuls, skim 
and strain off the broth, put 2 quarts of it and the 
meat into a clean stewpan, let it simmer very gently 
for ^ hour longer, and it is ready. If you wish it 
thickened, put 2 ounces of butter into a stewpan; 
when it is melted, throw in as much flour as will dry 
it up ; when they are all well mixed together, and 
browned by degrees, pour to this your soup, and stir 
it well together; let it simmer for ^ hour longer; 
strain it through a hair sieve into a clean stewpan, 
and put it to the meat of the head; let it stew ^ 
hour longer, and season it with cayenne pepper, salt, 
and a glass of good wine, or a tablespoonful of 
brandy. If you serve it as soup for a dozen people, 
thicken 1 tureen, and send up the meat in that; and 
send up the other as a clear gravy soup, with some 
of the carrots and turnips shredded, or cut into 
shapes. 

OX-TAIL SOUP 

Three tails will make a tureen of soup (desire the 
butcher to divide them at the joints) ; lay them to 
soak in warm water, while you get ready the vege- 
tables. 

Put into a gallon stewpan 8 cloves, 2 or 3 onions, 
^ drachm of allspice, and the same of black pepper, 
and the tails ; cover them with cold water ; skim it 



Soups 9 

carefully, as long as you sec any scum rise; then 
cover the pot as close as possible, and set it on the 
side of the fire to keep gently simmering till the 
meat becomes tender and will leave the bones easily, 
because it is to be eaten with a spoon, without 
the assistance of a knife or fork; this will require 
about 2 hours. Mind it is not done too much. 
When perfectly tender, take out the meat and cut it 
off the bones, in neat mouthfuls; skim the broth, 
and strain it through a sieve ; if you prefer a thick- 
ened soup, put flour and butter, as directed in the 
preceding receipt ; or put 2 tablespoonf uls of the fat 
you have taken off the broth into a clean stewpan, 
with as much flour as will make it into a paste; set 
this over the fire, and stir them well together; then 
pour in the broth by degrees, stirring it, and mix- 
ing it with the thickening; let it simmer for another 
^ hour, and when you have well skimmed it, and it 
is quite smooth, then strain it through a tamis into 
a clean stewpan, put in the meat, with a tablespoon- 
ful of mushroom catsup, a glass of wine, and season 
it with salt. 

Obs. — If the meat is cut off the bones, you must 
have 3 tails for a tureen, some put an ox-cheek or 
tails in an earthen pan, with all the ingredients as 
above, and send them to a slow oven for 5 or 6 hours. 



10 The New England Cook Book 
OLD PEAS SOUP 

Put 1^ pounds of split peas on in 4 quarts of 
water, with roast beef or mutton bones, and a ham 
bone, 2 heads of celery, and 4 onions, let tlaem boil 
till the peas be sufficiently soft to pulp through a 
sieve, strain it, put it into the pot with pepper and 
salt, and boil it nearly an hour. Two or S handfuls 
of spinach, well washed and cut a little, added when 
the soup is strained, is a great improvement; and 
in the summer young green peas in place of spinach. 
A teaspoonful of celery seed, or essence of celery, if 
celery is not to be had. 

PIGEON SOUP 

Have a strong beef stock, highly seasoned, and if 
for rich soup, take 6 or 8 pigeons according to their 
size, wash them clean, cut the necks, pinions, livers 
and gizzards, and put them into the stock; quar- 
ter the pigeons and brown them nicely ; after having 
strained the stock, put in the pigeons ; let them boil 
till nearly ready, which will be in about ^ hour, then 
thicken it with a little flour, rubbed down In a tea- 
cupful of the soup, season it with a grated nutmeg, 
1 tablespoonful of lemon juice or of vinegar, and 1 
of mushroom catsup; let it boil a few minutes after 
all these ingredients are put in, and serve it with the 
pigeons in the tureen ; a better thickening than flour 



Soups 11 

IS to boil quite tender 2 of the pigeons, take off all 
the meat and pound it in a mortar, rub it through 
a sieve, and put it, with the cut pigeons, into the 
strained soup. To make partridge soup, partridges 
may be substituted for pigeons, when only 4 birds 
will be required; pound the breast of one. 

VEAL STOCK 

Cut a leg of veal and some lean ham into pieces; 
put them into a saucepan, with a quart of water, 
some carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, and celery; stew 
them down till nearly done, but do not let it color; 
then add a sufficient quantity of beef stock to cover 
the ingredients, and let it boil for an hour ; skim off 
all the fat, and strain it; a little game stewed down 
with the above will greatly improve the flavor; be 
particularly careful that It does not burn. 

VENISON SOUP 

Boll down in 5 quarts of water S pounds of a 
shank of veal, or fowl, and 5 pounds of the breast 
of venison cut small; 2 or 3 onions chopped, some 
whole white pepper and salt, with ^ pound of lean 
ham. Let It stew till it be completely boiled down, 
when all the strength will be extracted ; rub It through 
a sieve, thicken it with a little butter, kneaded In 
flour, and add 1 pint of Madeira, and boil It for ^ 
hour or 20 minutes. 



Eggs 

EGGS AND BACON 
RAGOUT 

Boil i dozen eggs for 10 minutes; throw them 
into cold water; peel them and cut them into halves; 
pound the yolks, with about an equal quantity of 
the white meat of dressed fowl, or veal, a little 
chopped parsley, an anchovy, an eschalot, J ounce 
of butter, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, a 
little cayenne, some bread crumbs, and a very little 
beaten mace, or allspice; incorporate them well to- 
gether, and fill the halves of the whites with this mix- 
ture; do them over with the yolk of an egg, brown 
them in the oven, and serve them on relishing rashers 
of bacon or ham. 

EGGS BOILED, TO EAT IN 

THE SHELL, OR FOR 

SALADS 

The fresher laid the better. Put them into boil- 
ing water; if you like the white just set, about 2 
minutes' boiling is enough; a new-laid egg will take 

12 



Eggs 13 

a little more; if jou wish the yolk to be set, it will 
take 3, and to boil it hard for a salad, 10 minutes. 
A new-laid eg^ will require boiling longer than a 
stale one, by ^ minute. 

EGGS BOURGEOISE 

Spread some butter over the bottom of a dish, cover 
it entirely with thin slices of crumb of bread, on that 
lay thin slices of cheese, then 8 or 10 eggs; season 
them with salt, pepper and nutmeg; set the dish 
over a stove to cook gently till done. 

EGGS BUTTERED 

Beat and strain 10 or 12 eggs; put a piece of 
butter into a saucepan and keep turning it one way 
till melted; put in the beaten eggs, and stir them 
round with a silver spoon till they become quite thick. 
Serv^e them in a dish upon buttered toast. They may 
be eaten with fish, fowl, or sausages. 

EGGS AND CREAM 

Boil ^ pint of cream till reduced to half the quan- 
tity ; then add 8 eggs, season them with salt and pep- 
per, boil them together, till the eggs are partly hard ; 
pass a salamander over the top, and serve. 



14 The New England Cook Book 



EGGS EN SURPRISE 

Take 1 dozen eggs, and make a small hole at 
each end of every egg, through which pass a straw 
and break the yolk; then blow out the yolk care- 
fully. Wash the shells, and having drained, dry 
them in the open air; mix the yolk of an egg with 
a little flour to close one of the holes of the shells, 
and when dry, fill J the number by means of a small 
funnel, with chocolate cream, and the remaining 6 
with coffee or orange-cream; close the other end of 
your eggs, and put them into a saucepan of hot 
water; set them on the fire^ taking care they do not 
boil; when done, remove the cement from the ends; 
dry, and serve them on a folded napkin. 

EGGS FRIED 

Eggs boiled hard, cut into slices, and fried, may 
be served as a second course dish, to eat with roasted 
chicken. 



EGGS FRIED AND MINCED 
HAM OR BACON 

Choose some fine salt pork, streaked with a good 
deal of lean ; cut this into very thin slices, and after- 
ward into small square pieces; throw them into a 



Eggs 15 

stewpan, and set it over a gentle fire, that they may 
lose some of their fat. When as much as will freely 
come is thus melted from them, lay them on a warm 
dish. Put into a stewpan a ladleful of melted bacon 
or lard; set it on a stove; put in about a dozen of 
the small pieces of bacon, then stoop the stewpan 
and break in an egg. Manage this carefully and the 
egg will presently be done. It will be very round, 
and the little dice of bacon will stick to it all over, 
so that it will make a very pretty appearance. Take 
care the yolks do not harden; when the egg is thus 
done, lay it carefully in a warm dish, and do the 
others. 

EGG FRITTERS 

Pound 1 dozen hard-boiled eggs with a little cream, 
and J pound of beef marrow ; then pound ^ dozen 
macaroons, some bitter almonds, a little sugar, and 
lemon-peel; mix these with the pounded eggs, and 
form them into fritters ; dip them into a batter made 
with flour, butter, salt, and lemon-peel; fry them 
in very hot lard, sprinkle sugar over, and serve. 

EGG FRIZZLE 

Pour boiling water on to salt smoked beef slivered. 
Pour off the w^ater and then frizzle it in the fry- 
ing-pan with butter. When done, break in two or 
three eggs, and stir it till the egg is hardened. 



16 The New England Cook Booh 



EGGS FROTHED 

Beat up the yolks of 8 eggs and the whites of 4 
(set aside the remaining whites) with a spoonful of 
water, some salt, sugar, and the juice of a lemon; 
fry this, and then put it on a dish; whip the four 
whites (which were set aside) to a froth with sugar, 
and place it over the fried eggs; bake it in an oven, 
or with a high cover fitted for the purpose. 

HAM AND EGGS 

Cut some ham into thin slices, and broil them on a 
gridiron. Fry some eggs in butter. Serve it, lay- 
ing an egg on each slice of ham. 

OMELET 

(1) 

Five or 6 eggs will make a good-sized omelet; 
break them into a basin, and beat them well with a 
fork; and add a saltspoonful of salt; have ready 
chopped 2 drachms of onion, or 3 drachms of pars- 
ley, a good clove of eschalot minced very fine; beat 
it well up with the eggs ; then take 4 ounces of fresh 
butter, and break | of it into large bits, and put 
it into the omelet, and the other ^ into a very clean 
frying-pan; when it is melted, pour in the omelet, 



Eggs IT 

and stir it with a spoon till it begins to set, then turn 
it up all round the edges, and when it is of a nice 
brown it is done. The safest way to take it out is to 
put a plate on the omelet, and turn the pan upside- 
down. Serve it on a hot dish ; it should never be done 
till just wanted. If maigre, add grated cheese, 
shrimps, or oysters. If oysters, boil them 4 minutes, 
and take away the beard and gristly part; they may 
either be put in whole or cut in bits. 

OMELET 

(2) 

Beard and parboil 12 or 16 oysters, seasoning 
them with a few peppercorns, strain and chop them; 
beat well 6 eggs ; parboil and mince a little parsley ; 
mix all together, and season with a little nutmeg, 
salt, and a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup; fry 
it lightly in 3 ounces of butter, and hold it for 1 or 
2 minutes before the fire. 

OMELET 

(3) 

Beat well and strain 6 eggs ; add them to 3 ounces 
of butter made hot ; mix in some grated ham, pepper, 
salt, and nutmeg, some chopped chives and parsley. 
Fry it to a light brown color. 



18 The New Ens:land Cook Book 



ti' 



OMELET 

(4) 

Take as many eggs as you think proper (accord- 
ing to the size of your omelet), break them into a 
basin with some salt and chopped parsley; then beat 
them well, and season them according to taste; then 
have ready some onion chopped small; put some but- 
ter into a frying-pan, and when it is hot (but not 
to burn) put in your chopped onion, giving them 
2 or 3 turns; then add your eggs to it, and fry the 
whole to a nice brown. You must only fry one side. 
When done, turn it into a dish, the fried side upper- 
most, and serve. 

OMELET WITH KIDNEY OF 
VEAL 

To 8 well-beaten eggs, add a little salt, and part 
of a cold roasted kidney of veal, finely minced ; season 
with pepper, and a little more salt ; melt in a frying- 
pan 1^ ounce of butter, and pour in the omelet; fry 
it gently, and keep the middle part moist ; when done, 
roll it equally upon a knife, and serve it very hot. 

OMELET AU NATUREL 

Break 8 or 10 eggs into a pan, add pepper, salt, 
and a spoonful of cold water, beat them up with a 



Eggs 19 

whisk; in the meantime put soma fresh butter into 
a frying-pan, when it is quite melted and nearly boil- 
ing, put in the eggs, etc., with a skimmer; as it is 
frying, take up the edges, that they may be properly 
don£; when cooked, double it; serve very hot. 

TO KEEP EGGS 

To 4 quarts of air-slaked lime, put S ounces of 
cream of tartar (that is, 2 tablespoonfuls), 2 of salt, 
and 4 quarts of cold water. Put fresh eggs into a 
stone jar, and pour the mixture over them. This 
will keep 9 dozen, provided they are all good when 
laid down; and after many months the yolks will be 
still whole, and the whites stiff and clear as at first. 
The water may settle away so as to leave the upper 
layer uncovered. If so, add more. Cover them 
closely and keep them in a cool place. 

Eggs should be laid down when they are at the 
lowest market price. 



Fish and Shellfish 
FISH CONSOMMfi 

Take carp, perch, eels, pike, and other fresh-waier 
fish of the same kind; clean them well and cut them 
into pieces, as near of a size as may be; lay them in 
a stewpan, on a layer of sliced onions and carrots ; 
as soon as they begin to sweat, put in a bit of butter, 
and leave them for ^ an hour; moisten them with 
fish broth, and let them boil gently for 1 hour; keep 
the pan closely covered. This will afford a very 
nourishing broth. 

CLAMPURfiE 

S dozen clams, 

1 tablespoonful of butter, 

1^ pints of cream, 

■J cup of cold water, 

S tablespoonfuls of flour, 

^ cupful of bread crumbs, 

Season to taste. 

Drain clams with the water and save all the liquor. 
Heat the liquor and when boiling skim thoroughly. 

20 



Fish and Shellfish 21 

Add finely chopped clams and let boil again and 
skim. 

Rub the butter and flour together, stir until smooth 
and add to the broth with the bread crumbs, stir and 
cook until it thickens ; add the cream which has been 
previously scalded; season and serve at once. 

NEW ENGLAND CLAM 
CHOWDER 

Chop 24) large, hard-shelled clams and let stand on 
ice, in their own liquor. Fry ^ pound of fine cut 
larding pork until crisp, add 2 quarts of boiling 
water, 1 cup each of diced carrot, and finely chopped 
onion and white stalks of celery; boil until the car- 
rots are tender; add 4 cups of peeled potatoes cut 
in small pieces, ^ tablcspoonful of salt, ^ teaspoon- 
ful pepper, let boil ten minutes, add 1 pint of canned 
tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful of thyme, cook 20 minutes, 
then add the clams with their liquor, thicken with 1 
tablespoonful of flour rubbed into 1 tablespoonful of 
butter^ cook 10 minutes, and serve, 

CODFISH BALLS 

Mix with 1 cup of hot mashed potatoes (unsea- 
soned) ^ cup of shredded codfish. Add to this 1 
small egg and a speck of pepper, beating all till light 
and creamy. Shape roll in dried bread ciTimbs, dip 



22 The New England Cook Booh 

in beaten ^g^, which has teaspoonful of milk added 
to it, then in crumbs again, and fry in deep hot fat 
till brown. 

CREAMED SALT COD 

Melt 1 rounded tablespoonful of butter in a sauce- 
pan, add one tablespoonful of flour, a speck of pep- 
per, and beat well; add gradually 1 cup of hot milk, 
beating each time. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of fish 
and pour over slices of toast or crisped crackers. A 
hard-boiled ^gg cut in slices may be added, if de- 
sired. 

COD PIE 

Lay a fine piece of fresh cod in salt for several 
hours; then wash it well, season it with pepper, salt, 
nutmeg, and mace; place it in a dish, with a little 
butter and some good stock. Lay a crust over, and 
bake it ; when done, pour in a sauce, made as follows : 
— 1 spoonful of stock, \ pint of cream, flour and 
butter, grate in a little nutmeg and lemon-peel, and 
a few oysters; boil the whole once. 

A CODFISH RELISH 

Take thin slivers of codfish, lay them on hot coals, 
and when a yellowish brown, set them on the table. 



Fish mid Shellfish 23 

A CODFISH RELISH 

(2) 

Sliver the codfish fine, pour on boihng water, drain 
it off, and add butter, and a very little pepper, and 
heat them 3 or 4 minutes, but do not let them fry. 

SOFT SHELL CRABS 

Clean thoroughly and scrape out the fins that are 
under the shell, fry in equal parts lard and butter 
until slightly crisp. Serve with Sauce Tartare, or 
sliced lemon and garnish with cress. 

TO DEVIL CRABS 

Take 12 large crabs, boil, remove the meat from 
the shells and chop fine, add two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, a little dry mustard, a grating of nutmeg and 
salt and pepper to taste. Take an equal quantity 
of bread crumbs and mix thoroughly with the crab 
meat, moisten with ^ cup of rich cream, add a dash 
of cayenne. Fill the crab shells with the mixture, 
put a small piece of butter on the top and sprinkle 
with bread crumbs ; brown in the oven and serve with 
Worcestershire sauce or sliced lemon ; garnish with 
parsley. 



24 The New Ensland Cook Book 



ESCALLOPED FISH 

Remove the bones and skin from cold cooked fish. 
Make a cream sauce of 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 
1 of butter and 1 cup of milk; season with a few 
slices of onion, a little chopped parsley, pepper and 
salt. Rub the inside of a baking dish with butter; 
alternate layers of flaked fish, cream sauce and cracker 
crumbs, until the dish is filled; cover the last layer 
with crumbs. Bake in the oven 20 minutes. 

FISH RECHAUFFE 

After pike, cod, skate, turbot, soles, or any other 
white fish has been dressed, pick it from the bones 
into small bits ; add to a pound of fish, or in the 
same proportion, ^ pint of good cream, 1 tablespoon- 
ful of mustard, the same of anchovy essence, the 
same of catsup, a little flour, some salt, pepper, and 
butter. Make it all hot in the saucepan, then put 
it into the dish in which it is to be served up, strew 
crumbs of bread over it, and baste it with butter till 
it is a little moist; then brown it with a salamander, 
or in a Dutch oven. A wall of mashed potatoes 
round the dish is an improvement. 



Fish mid Shellfish 25 

FLOUNDERS BOILED 

Put on a stewpan with a sufficient quantity of water 
to cover the flounders which are to be dressed; put 
in some vinegar and horseradish. When the water 
boils put in the fish, having been first well cleaned, 
and their fins cut off. They must not boil too fast, 
for fear they should break. When they are suffi- 
ciently done, lay them on a fish plate, the tails in the 
middle. Serve them with parsley and butter. 

FRIED EELS 

Skin and clean the eels, wipe dry, cut into fillets, 
dip in beaten egg and roll in cracker crumbs, fry in 
hot lard, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve. 

HERRINGS TO BAKE 

They must be perfectly fresh, and well cleaned, 
but not washed; the heads and fins cut off, and the 
bones cut out; strew over them pepper, salt, and a 
slice of onion minced very finely, to each; roll them 
up tight; pack them into a jar, and pour over in 
the proportion of a pint of vinegar to 2 of water, 
with ^ ounce of whole black pepper; tie over the jar 
a piece of bladder or paper, and bake them in an oven 
for 1 hour. Take off the cover when they are cold, 
and pour over a little cold vinegar, and tie them up. 



26 The New England Cook Book 



HERRINGS BOILED 

Scale, and otherwise prepare the herrings in the 
usual way; dry them well, and rub them over with a 
little salt, and vinegar; skewer their tails in their 
mouths, lay them on a fish plate, and put them into 
boiling water; in 10 or 12 minutes take them out, 
drain them, lay them on the dish, the heads towards 
the middle ; serve them with melted butter and parsley, 
and garnish with horseradish. 

HERRINGS TO FRY 

Scrape off the scales ; cut off the fins ; draw out the 
gut, keeping in the roes and melts ; wipe them in a 
clean cloth; dredge them Avith flour, and fry them in 
boiling dripping; put them before the fire to drain 
and keep hot. 

Sauces : — Melted butter, and parsley and butter. 

When herrings are to be broiled, they are prepared 
In the same manner, and done upon the gridiron. 
They must not be washed. 

HERRINGS, RED 

Plain broil them, or pour over some beer made hot, 
and when it is cold, drain and wipe them dry ; heat 
them thoroughly, and rub over a little butter, and 
sprinkle them with pepper. 



Fish and Shellfish 27 



SALT HERRINGS 

Heat them on a gridiron, remove the skin, and 
then set them on the table. 



LOBSTERS, OR CRABS, 
BUTTERED 

Pick all the meat from the bodies of either, mince 
it small, put it into a saucepan with 2 or 3 table- 
spoonfuls of white wine, 1 of lemon-pickle, and 3 
or 4 of rich gravy, a bit of butter, some salt, pep- 
per, and grated nutmeg; thicken it with the yolks of 
2 eggs beat up, and when quite hot, put it into the 
large shells; garnish them with an edging of bread 
toasted. 

LOBSTER A LA BRAISE 

Pound the meat of a large lobster very fine with 
2 ounces of butter, and season it with grated nut- 
meg, salt, and white pepper; add a little grated 
bread, beat up 2 eggs, reserve part to put over the 
meat, and with the rest make it up into the form of 
a lobster. Pound the spawn and red part, and spread 
it over it; bake it ^ hour, and just before serving, 
lay over it the tail and body shell, with the small 
claws put underneath to resemble a lobster. 



28 The New England Cook Book 
LOBSTER FRICASSEE 

Break the shells, and take out the meat carefully, 
cut it and the red part, or coral, into pieces, adding 
the spawn ; thicken with flour and butter some white 
stock, with which the shells have been boiled; season 
it with white pepper, mace and salt, put in the lobster 
and heat it up. Just before serving, add a little 
lemon-juice, or lemon-pickle. The stock may be 
made with the shells, only boiled in a pint of water, 
with some white pepper, salt, and a little mace, thick- 
ened with cream, flour, and butter. 

LOBSTER NEWBURGH 

Two cups of finely-cut lobster, saute in 2 table- 
spoonfuls of hot butter ; add the yolks of S eggs that 
have been w^ell beaten into 1 cup of rich cream; 
season with 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful pep- 
per, a pinch of red pepper, and a grating of nut- 
meg. When boiling add i cup of sherry and brandy 
mixed. Let come once more to a boil and serve im- 
mediately, in ramekins or on toast. This may be 
made in a chafing dish, if desired. 

LOBSTER PATTIES 

(1) 

Pick the meat and red berries out of a lobster, 
mince them finely, add grated bread, chopped pars- 



Fish and Shellfish 29 

ley, and butter; season with grated nutmeg, white 
pepper and salt ; add a little white stock, cream, and 
a tablespoonful of white wine, with a few chopped 
oysters; heat it all together. Line the patty pans 
with puff paste; put into each a bit of crumb of 
bread, about 1 inch square, wet the edge of the 
paste, and cover it with another bit; with the paste- 
cutter mark it all round the rim, and pare oif the 
paste round the edge of the patty-pan. When baked 
take off the top, and with a knife take out the bread 
and a little of the inside paste, and serve them in a 
napkin. Another way to prepare the paste. — Roll it 
out nearlj^ ^ inch thick, and cut it into rounds with 
a tin cutter, and, with 1 or 2 sizes less, mark it in 
the middle about half through. When they are 
baked, carefully cut out the inner top of the paste, 
and scoop out the inside, so as to make room for the 
mince, vdiich put in, and place on top. 

LOBSTER PATTIES 

(2) 

Prepare the patties as in the last receipt. Take a 
hen lobster already boiled; pick the meat from the 
tail and the claws, and chop it fine; put it into a 
stewpan, with a little of the inside spawn pounded 
in a mortar till quite smooth, 1 ounce of fresh but- 
ter, ^ gill of cream, and ^ gill of veal consomme, 



30 The New England Cook Book 

cayenne pepper, and salt, 1 teaspoonful of essence 
of anchovy, the same of lemon- juice, and 1 table- 
spoonful of flour and water. Stew it 5 minutes. 



LOBSTER PIE 

Boil the lobsters, and cut the meat of the tail into 
4 bits; take out the meat from the claws and the 
bodies, pound it in a mortar, add the soft part of 1 
lobster, and season with pepper, salt and nutmeg; 
add 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar; melt ^ pound of 
butter, and mix it with the pounded meat and the 
crumb of a slice of grated bread. Put puff paste 
round the edge and side of the dish; put in the tail 
of the lobster, then a layer of oysters with their 
liquor, and next the pounded meat; cover it with a 
puff paste, and bake it till the paste is done. Be- 
fore serving, pour in some rich gravy, made of a 
little weak stock in which the lobster shells have been 
boikd, with an onion, pepper, and salt, and which 
has been strained and thickened with a bit of butter 
rolled in flour. 

MACKEREL BAKED 

Cut off their heads, open them, and take out the 
roes and clean them thoroughly; rub them on the in- 
side with a little pepper and salt, put the roes in 
again, season them (with a mixture of powdered all- 



Fish and Shellfish 31 

spice, black pepper, and salt, Avell rubbed together), 
and lay them close in a baking-pan, cover them with 
equal quantities of cold vinegar and water, tie them 
down with strong white paper doubled, and bake 
them for 1 hour in a slow oven. They will keep for 
a fortnight. 

MACKEREL BOILED 

This fish loses its life as soon as it leaves the sea, 
and the fresher it is the better. Wash and clean 
them thoroughly (the fishmongers seldom do this suf- 
ficiently), put them into cold water with a handful 
of salt in it ; let them rather simmer than boil ; a 
small mackerel will be done enough in about ^ hour. 
When the eyes start and the tail splits, they are 
done; do not let them stand in the water a moment 
after ; they are so delicate that the heat of the water 
will break them. 

MACKEREL BROILED 

Clean a fine large mackerel, wipe It on a dry cloth, 
and cut a long slit down the back ; lay it on a clean 
gridiron, over a very clear, slow fire; when it is 
done on one side, turn it; be careful that it does not 
burn. Send it up with fennel sauce : mix well together 
a little finely-minced fennel and parsley, seasoned 
with a little pepper and salt, a bit of fresh butter. 



32 The New England Cook Booh 

and when tlie mackerel are ready for tlie table, put 
some of this into each dish. 



OYSTERS BAKED IN 
SHELLS 

Select large oysters. Clean the shells with a brush. 
Dip the oysters into ^gg and then seasoned bread 
crumbs ; place the oysters back in the shells, add a 
small lump of butter to each oyster and bake in quick 
oven 10 minutes; serve with sliced lemon. 

OYSTER BISQUE 

strain the liquor from a quart of oysters and put 
over the fire. 

Beard and clean the oysters and chop fine. Add 
oysters to scalding liquor and season with 1 teaspoon- 
ful of salt and ^ teaspoonful of paprika. 

In another saucepan, thicken 1 cup of milk with a 
tablespoonful of butter rubbed in 1 cup of flour and 
^ cup of cracker crumbs. When the oysters boil add 
them slowly to the milk and serve at once. 

FRIED OYSTERS 

For frying, choose the largest and finest oysters. 
Beat some yolks of eggs, and mix with them grated 
bread, and a small quantity of beaten nutmeg and 



Fish and Shellfish 33 

mace and a little salt. Having stirred this batter 
well, dip your oysters into it, and fry them in lard, 
till they are of a light brown color. Take care not 
to do them too much. Serve them up hot. 

For grated bread, some substitute crackers pounded 
to a powder, and mixed with yolk of egg and spice. 



SCALLOPED OYSTERS 

Grate a small loaf of stale bread. Butter a deep 
dish well, and cover the sides and bottom with bread 
crumbs. Put in half the oysters with a little mace 
and pepper. Cover them with crumbs and small bits 
of butter strewed over them. Then put in the re- 
mainder of the oysters. Season them. Cover them 
as before with crumbs and butter. If the oysters are 
fresh, pour in a little of the liquor. If they are salt, 
substitute a little water. Bake them a very short 
time. You may cook them in the small scalloped 
dishes made for the purpose. 



SPICED OYSTERS 

200 large fresh oysters, 

4 tablespoonfuls of strong vinegar, 
1 nutmeg, grated, 

5 dozen of cloves, whole, 
8 blades of mace, whole. 



34 The New England Cook Book 

9, teaspoonfuls of salt if the oysters are 

fresh, 
2 teaspoonfuls of allspice, 
As much cayenne pepper as will lie on the 

point of a knife. 

Put the oysters, with their liquor, into a large 
earthen pitcher. Add to them the vinegar and all the 
other ingredients. Stir all well together. Set them 
in the stove, or over a slow fire, keeping them cov- 
ered. Take them off the fire several times, and stir 
them to the bottom. As soon as they boil com- 
pletely they are sufficiently done ; if they boil too long 
they will be hard. 

Pour them directly out of the pitcher into a pan, 
and set them away to cool. They must not be eaten 
till quite cold, or indeed till next day. 

If you wash to keep them a week, put a smaller 
quantity of spice, or they will taste too much of it 
by setting so long. Let them be well covered. 

Oysters in the shell may be kept all winter by lay- 
ing them in a heap in the cellar, with the concave side 
upwards to hold in the liquor. Sprinkle them every 
day with strong salt and water, and then with Indian 
meal. Cover them with matting or an old carpet. 



Fish and Shellfish 35 

STEWED OYSTERS 

(1) 

Open the oysters and strain the liquor. Put to 
the liquor some grated stale bread, and a little pepper 
and nutmeg, adding a glass of white wine. Boil the 
liquor with these ingredients, and then pour it scald- 
ing hot over the dish of raw oysters. This will cook 
them sufficiently. 

Have ready some slices of buttered toast with the 
crust cut off. When the oysters are done, dip the 
toast in the liquor, and lay the pieces round the sides 
and in the bottom of a deep dish. Pour the oysters 
and liquor upon the toast, and send them to table hot. 

STEWED OYSTERS 

(2) 

Strain all the liquor from the oysters, and thicken 
the liquor with stale bread grated (which is much bet- 
ter than flour), some whole pepper, and some mace. 
Grate some nutmeg into it. Boil the liquor without 
the oysters, adding a piece of butter rolled in flour. 

Lay a slice of buttered toast in the bottom of a 
deep dish, and surround the sides with small slices cut 
into 3-corner or pointed pieces. All the crust must 
be cut off^ from the toast. 

Put the raw oysters into the dish of toast, and 
when the liquor has boiled hard, pour it scalding hot 



36 The New England Cook Book 

over them. Cover the dish closely, and let it set for 
5 minutes or more before you send it to table. This 
will cook the oysters sufficiently, will swell them to a 
larger size, and cause them to retain more of their 
flavor than when stewed in the liquor. 

Take care not to make it too thick with the grated 
bread. 

OYSTER PIE 

Beard a quart of fine oysters, strain the liquor, 
and add them to it. Cut into thin slices the kidney 
fat of a loin of veal ; season them with white pepper, 
salt, mace, and grated lemon-peel; lay them on the 
bottom of a pie dish, put in the oysters and liquor, 
with a little more seasoning; put over them the mar- 
row of 2 bones. Lay a border of puff paste round 
the edge of the dish ; cover it with paste, and bake it 
nearly f hour. 

PERCH BOILED 

Put them into cold water, and let them boil care- 
fully ; serve with melted butter and soy. 

PERCH BROILED 

Scrape, gut, and wash them; dry them in a cloth, 
dust them with flour, and broil them. Sauce: — 
Melted butter. Or they may be broiled without gut- 



Fish and Shellfish 37 

ting them. They may also be stewed as carp are 
done. 



PERCH WITH WINE 

Having scaled and taken out the gills, put the 
perch into a stewpan, with equal quantities of stock 
and white wine, a bay-leaf, a clove of garlic, a bunch 
of parsley and scallions, 2 cloves, and some salt. 
When done, take out the fish, strain off the liquor, the 
dreers of which mix with some butter and a little 
flour ; beat these up, set them on the fire, stirring till 
quite done, adding pepper, grated nutmeg, and a ball 
of anchovy butter. Drain the perch well, and dish 
them with the above sauce. 

PICKEREL BAKED 

Clean and wipe the fish. Place in pan with suffi- 
cient melted butter and water to keep from burning; 
baste frequently and when cooked serve with Qg^ 
sauce. Pickerel may be filled with seasoned bread or 
potato stuffing, if so desired. 

BAKED PIKE 

Scrape the scales off a large pike, take out the gills, 
and clean it, without breaking the skin ; stuff the fish 
with a forcemeat made of 2 handf uls of grated bread ; 



38 The New England Cook Book 

1 of finely-minced suet, some chopped parsley, and a 
little fresh butter, seasoned with pepper, salt, mace, 
grated lemon-peel and a nutmeg, pounded all together 
in a mortar, with two whole eggs. Fasten the tail 
of the pike into its mouth with a skewer, then dip 
it, first into a well-beaten egg, and then into grated 
bread, which repeat twice; baste it over the butter, 
and bake it in an oven. 

If two of them are to be served, make one of them 
of a green color, by mixing a quantity of finely- 
min-ced parsley with the grated bread. When the 
fish is of a fine brown color, cover it with paper until 
it is done. Serve with a Dutch sauce in a sauce- 
tureen. 

BOILED PIKE 

Wash clean, and take out the gills ; stuff them with 
the following forcemeat : equal parts of chopped 03^8- 
ters, grated bread crumbs, beef suet, or butter, 2 
anchovies, a little onion, pepper, salt, nutmeg, minced 
parsley, sweet marjoram, thyme, and savory; an egg 
to bind it. Stuff the insides, and sew them up ; put 
them on in boiling salt and water, with a glass of 
vinegar, and let them boil ^ hour. Sauces : — Oyster, 
and melted butter. Pike may also be broiled. 



Fish and Shellfish 39 



SALMON BAKED 

Clean and cut the fish into sUces, put it in a dish, 
and make the following sauce : — Melt 1 ounce of 
butter, kneaded in flour, in 1^ pint of gravy, with 
S glasses of Port wine, S tablespoonfuls of cat- 
sup, 2 anchovies, and a little cayenne. When the 
anchovies are dissolved, strain and pour the sauce 
over the fish, tie a sheet of buttered paper over the 
dish, and bake it in the oven. 

SALMON BOILED 

Put on a fish kettle, with spring water enough to 
well cover the salmon you are going to dress, or the 
salmon will neither look nor taste well (boil the 
liver in a separate saucepan). When the water boils, 
put in a handful of salt; take off the scum as soon 
as it rises; have the fish well washed; put it in, and 
if it is thick, let it boil very gently. Salmon re- 
quires almost as much boiling as meat; about \ hour 
to 1 pound of fish: but practice only can perfect 
the cook in dressing salmon. A quarter of a salmon 
will take almost as long boiling as half a one: you 
must consider the thickness, not the w^eight: 10 
pounds of fine full-grown salmon will be done in 1\ 
hours. Lobster sauce. 

Obs. — The thinnest part of the fish is the fattest ; 



40 The New England Cook Book 

and if you have a " grand gourmand " at table, ask 
him if he is for thick or thin. 

N. B. — If you have any left, put it into a pie- 
dish, and cover it with an equal portion of vinegar 
and pump water, and a little salt. It will be ready 
in 3 days. 

FRIED SCALLOPS 

Dredge scallops with flour ; dip separately in beaten 
egg; roll in bread crumbs that have been seasoned 
with salt and pepper; fry in hot fat until golden 
brown. Serve at once, with sliced lemon or Tartare 
Sauce. 

SHAD BAKED 

Wash and clean the shad, and stuff with bread 
crumbs mixed with 1 beaten egg and seasoned with 
salt, pepper, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley, 
and a few drops of onion juice. Tie a string around 
the fish, place in pan in oven and baste frequently 
with equal pa^rts of melted butter and hot water. 

SHAD ROE 

Parboil the roe, drain, sprinkle with salt and pep- 
per, dredge with flour and fry a light brown. 



Fish and Shellfish 41 



SMELTS 

Soak smelts a little while in warm water; scrape 
them, and cut the heads so far that you can gently 
pull them off, and thus draw out the dark vein that 
runs through the body ; then rinse and lay them into 
a dry cloth while you fry 2 or 3 slices of salt pork 
crisp. Dip the smelts into a plate of fine Indian 
meal, and fry them brown. If you fry them in lard 
or drippings, sprinkle them with salt, but not until 
they are nearly done, as they will not brown as well, 
if it is put on at first. 

BROILED SMELTS 

Clean and split 12 large smelts, spread the smelts 
with 12 finely chopped olives and ^ green pepper; 
close smelts and sprinkle with salt and a little pa- 
prika, dip in melted butter or olive oil and broil over a 
quick fire. 

STURGEON 

Select 4 pounds of fish, parboil \ hour, place in 
pan, cover with rashers of salt pork, baste frequently 
and bake 1 hour. Serve with drawn butter. 



42 The New England Cook Book 



TO COLLAR TROUT 

Wash them clean, spht them down the backbone, 
and dry them well in a cloth; season them well with 
finely-pounded black pepper, salt, and mace; roll them 
tight, and lay them close into a dish; pour over an 
equal quantity of vinegar and beer, with two or three 
bay -leaves, and some whole black pepper ; ' tie over 
the dish a sheet of buttered paper, and bake them 
1 hour. 

TO BROIL TROUT 

Cut off the fins, and cut the fish down the back, 
close to the bone, and split the head in two. An- 
other way is, after they have been cut open, to rub 
a little salt over them ; let them lie 3 or 4 hours, and 
then hang them up in the kitchen. They will be 
ready to broil the next morning for breakfast. 

TO FRY TROUT 

Cut off the fins, clean and gut them; dust them 
with flour, and dip them into the yolk of an egg 
beaten; strew grated bread crumbs over, and fry 
them in fresh dripping; lay them upon the back of 
a sieve before the fire to drain. Sauce : — Melted but- 
ter, with 1 tablespoonful of catsup, and 1 of lemon- 



Fish and Shellfish 43 

pickle in it. When they are small, roll them in oat- 
meal before they are fried. 

TURBOT, BAKED 

Wash your fish in several waters, dry it well, and 
soak it in melted butter, with sweet herbs, parsley, 
pepper, salt and nutmeg; in ^ hour, put the whole 
into a baking dish, envelope it completely in bread 
crumbs, and bake it. 

TURBOT, BREADED 

Prepare a small turbot as usual, slit it across the 
back, and soak it for 1 hour in melted butter, or 
lemon-juice, with parsley, sweet herbs, salt and pep- 
per. Cover the fish with bread crumbs, and broil it. 
When done, squeeze lemon, or Seville orange-juice 
over it, and serve. 

TURBOT, STUFFED AND 
BAKED 

Your turbot being properly cleansed, turn over the 
skin of the under side, without cutting it off; make 
a farce, with some butter, scallions, morels, sweet 
herbs, all shred, and united together, with yolks of 
eggs, and seasoned with pepper and salt ; spread this 
all over the under part of the fish, cover it with the 



44 The New E^igland Cook Booh 

skin, and sew it up. Dissolve some butter in a sauce- 
pan; add to it when melted, the yolk of an egg, 
sweet herbs, shred, salt, and pepper; rub the fish all 
over with this, then bread, and bake it. 



TURBO T, GRILLED 

Split the fish down the back, and soak it for some 
time, with melted butter, parsley, sweet herbs, salt 
and pepper. Bread the turbot well, broil, and serve 
it with lemon, or Seville orange- juice. 

TURBOT, WITH WHITE 
SAUCE 

Put a sliced onion, some thyme, basil and sweet 
herbs into a stewpan, place a small turbot on these, 
strew similar herbs, salt, pepper and a leek, cut in 
pieces over it; cover the fish with equal quantities of 
vinegar and white wine; let it boil over a moderate 
fire until sufficiently done ; in the meantime, melt a 
pound of butter, add to it a couple of boned an- 
chovies, 2 spoonfuls of capers, shred small, 2 or 3 
leeks, salt, pepper, nutmeg, a little vinegar, water, 
and a sprinkling of flour; make all these quite hot, 
stirring constantly till done; then dish the turbot, 
pour the sauce over it, and serve. 



Vegetables 
ASPARAGUS 

Wash it, trim off the white ends, and tie it up in 
bunches with a twine or a strip of old cotton. 
Throw them into boiling water with salt in it. Boil 
25 minutes or ^ hour. Have ready 2 or 3 slices of 
toasted bread, dip them in the water and lay them in 
the dish. Spread them with butter and lay the 
bunches of asparagus upon the toast. Cut the 
strings with a scissors and draw them out without 
breaking the stalks ; lay thin shavings of butter over 
the asparagus, and send it to the table. 

ASPARAGUS, BOILED 

Scrape and tie them in small bundles; cut them 
even, boil them quick in salt and water; lay them on 
a toast dipped in the water the asparagus was boiled 
in ; pour over them melted butter. 

ASPARAGUS AND EGGS 

Toast a slice of bread, butter it, and lay it on a 
dish; butter some eggs thus: take 4 eggs, beat them 

45 



46 The New England Cook Book 

well, put them into a saucepan with 2 ounces of but- 
ter, and a little salt, until of a sufficient consistence, 
and lay them on the toast; meanwhile boil some as- 
paragus tender, cut the ends small, and lay them on 
the eggs. 

BOSTON BAKED BEANS 

Soak 2 cups California pea beans over night, next 
morning parboil till rather soft. Mix 1 teaspoon 
mustard with 1 teaspoon salt, ^ cup molasses, fill cup 
with boiling water and pour over beans in covered 
bean pot, add ^ pound salt pork and bake all day. 

BEETS 

When they are washed the little fibers and ragged 
excrescences should not be broken off, as the juices of 
the root will thus be lost. Young beets boil in an 
hour; but in the winter they require from 2 to 3 
hours. When tender, put them for 1 or S minutes 
into cold water, take them in your hands and slip 
the skins off. This is a much easier and better way 
than to remove the skin with a knife. Lay them 
into a dish, cut them several times through, sprinkle 
them with salt and pepper, add a little butter, and, 
if you choose, vinegar also. It is a very good way 
to cut up all that remains after dinner, put on salt 
and vinegar, and set them aside to be used cold an- 
other day. 



Vegetables 47 

CUCUMBERS 

Cucumbers should be gathered while dew Is yet on 
them, and put humediately into water. Half an hour 
before dinner, pare and slice them very thin, and let 
them lie in fresh water till dinner is ready ; then drain 
them, lay them into a dish, sprinkle them with salt, 
pour on the vinegar, and add the pepper last. 

CABBAGE 

Remove the waste leaves, and divide the stump end 
as far as the center of the cabbage. It is good 
boiled with salt meat; but if cooked by itself, salt 
should be added to the water. Cabbage should be 
put into boiling water, be well skimmed, and boil 1 
or 1^ hours, according to the size. 

CAULIFLOWERS 

Lay them an hour or two in cold salt and water; 
remove the outside leaves and boil them half an hour 
in milk and water. If they are strong, pour off the 
water when they are half done, and put fresh boil- 
ing water to them. Brocoli is cooked in the same 
manner, and should be laid on toast exactly like 
asparagus. 



48 The New England Cook Book 



SHELLED BEANS 

Put them into cold soft water, just enough to 
cover them. Boil them from 1 to Ij hours. Some 
kinds are more easily boiled than others. Do not 
put in salt until they are nearly done, as its tendency 
is to make them hard. Take them up with a skim- 
mer and butter them. 



STRING BEANS 

Beans should never be used in this way after the 
pod has become old enough to have a string, or 
tough fiber upon it. Cut off each end, and cut them 
up small. Boil them in as little water as will keep 
them from burning. Just before you take them up, 
add salt and butter, and dredge in a little flour. 
They should have only as much liquor in them as 
you wish to take up in the dish, else the sweetness is 
wasted. String beans and peas are good boiled 
together. 

BOILED CORN 

Put the ears into boiling water, with salt in it, 
and boil them ^ an hour. 



Vegetables 49 



CORN OYSTERS 

Grate young, sweet com into a dish, and to a pint 
add 1 egg, well beaten, 1 small teacup of flour, ^ a 
gill of cream, and 1 teaspoonful of salt. Mix it 
well together. Fry exactly like oysters, dropping 
it into the fat by spoonfuls about the size of an 
oyster. 

EGG PLANT 

Take fresh purple ones, and pull out the stem; 
parboil them and cut them in slices about an inch 
thick. Dip them in a beaten Ggg, and then in a 
plate of bread or cracker crumbs, with salt and 
pepper, and fry them in drippings until they are 
nicely browned. 



GREENS 

Cabbage plants, turnip or mustard tops, the roots 
and tops of young beets, cowslips, dandelions, and 
various other things, make a good dish in the spring. 
When boiled enough, they will sink to the bottom of 
the kettle. Some require an hour, and others less 
time. Turnip tops will be boiled enough in 20 min- 
utes. Remember to put salt into the water, unless 
you boil a piece of pork with them. 



50 The New England Cook Book 
MACARONI 

Procure that which looks white and clean. When 
it is to be used, examine it carefully, as there are 
sometimes little insects inside. Wash it, and put it 
in a stewpan in cold water enough almost to cover 
it. Add a little salt. Let it boil slowly ^ an hour; 
then add a gill of milk and a small piece of butter, 
and boil it ^ of an hour more. Then put it into the 
dish in which it is to go to the table, grate old cheese 
over it, and brown it in the oven. 

MACARONI DRESSED 
SWEET 

Boil 2 ounces of macaroni in 1 pint of milk, with a 
bit of lemon-peel, and a good bit of cinnamon, till 
the pipes are swelled to their utmost size without 
breaking. Lay them on a custard dish, and pour a 
custard over them hot. Serve cold. 

MACARONI GRATIN 

Lay fried bread pretty closely around a dish, boil 
your macaroni in the usual way, and pour it into 
the dish; smooth it all over, and strew bread-crumbs 
on it, then a pretty thick layer of grated Parmesan 
cheese ; drop a little melted butter on it, and brown 
in quick oven. 



Vegetables 51 

MACARONI TIM BALE 

Take some puff paste, roll it thin, and cut it into 
narrow bands; twist each kind into a kind of cord, 
which place around the insides of buttered molds, 
snail fashion; fill each mold with macaroni, cover the 
tops with grated bread and Parmesan cheese (equal 
quantities of each) ; put the Timbales into a warm 
oven, and bake them f of an hour; then turn them on 
a dish and serve. 

STEWED MUSHROOMS 

Take 1 quart of fresh mushrooms. Peel them and 
cut off the stems. Season them with pepper and 
salt. Put them in a saucepan or skillet, with a lump 
of fresh butter the size of an Ggg, and sufficient 
cream or rich milk to cover them. Put on the lid 
of the pan, and stew the mushrooms about ^ of an 
hour, keeping them well covered or the flavor will 
evaporate. 

When you take them off the fire, have ready 1 or 2 
beaten eggs. Stir the eggs gradually into the stew, 
and send it to the table in a covered dish. 

o K R A s 

Cut okras into small lengths, boil In salted water 
until tender, serve with white sauce, or saute in 



52 The Neto England Cook Book 

saucepan v/itli 1 ounce of butter, 1 sliced onion, 1 
minced green pepper; when brown add ^ cup of 
stewed tomato, ^ teaspoonful of salt and a pinch of 
pepper; simmer IS minutes and serve. 



ONIONS 

Boil them 20 minutes, and pour off the water en- 
tirely; then put in equal parts of hot water and 
milk, or skimmed milk alone, and boil them 20 min- 
utes more. When they are done through, take them 
up with a skimmer, let them drain a little, and lay 
them into the dish. Put on butter, pepper, and salt. 

ONIONS, PLAIN BOILED 

Peel them, and let them He 1 hour in cold water; 
put them on In boiling milk and water ; boil them till 
tender, and serve them with melted butter poured 
over them. 

ONIONS, ROAST 

Roast them with the skins on in a Dutch oven, that 
they may brown equally. They are eaten with cold, 
fresh butter, pepper and salt. 



Vegetables 53 



ONIONS, STEWED 

Take 1 dozen of good-sized onions, peel and put 
them on in the following sauce : 1 pint of veal stock, 
a bit of butter rolled in flour, a little pepper and salt. 
Stew them gently for 1 hour, and, just before serv- 
ing, mix in S tablespoonfuls of cream. To stew 
them in a brown sauce, take the same quantity of 
good gravy. In a stewpan, brown of a light color, 
a little butter and flour, add the gi'avy and onions, 
with a little pepper and salt, and stew them gently 
1 hour. 

PARSNIPS 

These are not considered by most people very 
good; but they are so in broth and soup. To eat 
with meat they should be boiled J of an hour, if fresh 
from the garden; in the winter, 1^ hours. Thej^ 
make very good pies after the fashion of pumpkin 
or squash, but they must be boiled very tender, and 
in a good deal of water, else a strong taste will per- 
vade the pies. 

PEAS 

If peas are young and fresh (and none others are 
good), they will boil in J hour or 35 minutes. They 
should be put into cold water, without salt. The 



54 The New England Cook Book 

same quantity should be used as for string beans, 
and for the same reason. When they are tender, add 
salt and butter. It is an improvement to boil a sin- 
gle small slice of pork in them. It need not be laid 
into the dish, and the same slice will do for another 
boiling. 

TO BOIL POTATOES 

The best potatoes are good boiled without paring, 
but even they are best pared, and poor potatoes are 
unfit to eat, boiled with the skins on. New potatoes 
are made watery by being laid in w^ater, but late in 
the winter and in the spring they should be pared 
and laid in cold water 1 or 2 hours before they are 
cooked. Put them into boiling water, with salt in 
it, and allow 30 or 40 minutes for boiling, according 
to the size. When they are done through, pour off 
the water, and take the kettle to the door or win- 
dow, and shake them. Doing this in the open air 
makes them mealy; return them to the fire in 1 or 2 
minutes and then serve. Many persons take a fork 
and break them up in the kettle, before taking them 
up, and they make a beautiful looking dish done in 
this w^ay. 

Potatoes require nearly 1 hour to bake in a. cook- 
ing stove or range. 



Vegetables 55 



POTATO BALLS 

Mash boiled potatoes, fine, stir into them the yolk 
of an egg, and make them into balls ; then dip them 
into a beaten egg, roll them in cracker crumbs, and 
brown them in a quick oven ; or, fry them in a small 
quantity of nice drippings, and in that case flatten 
them so that they can be easily turned and browned 
on both sides. 

BAKED POTATOES 

Wash potatoes carefully, rub the skin with a little 
lard, prick the small end of the potato with a fork, 
bake in moderate oven 1 hour, serve on folded napkin. 

MASHED POTATOES 

Boil them according to the directions in the pre- 
ceding recipe, allowing 20 minutes more time be- 
fore dinner than if they were to be put on the table 
whole. When they are dried, set off the kettle and 
mash them in it with a wooden pestle. This is better 
than to take them into a pan, as they will keep hot 
in the kettle. Have ready 1 gill or 2 of hot milk 
or cream ; if you use milk, put a small piece of butter 
into it. Sprinkle salt into the potato and mash it 
till it is perfectly fine ; then pour in the hot milk and 



56 The New England Cook Book 

mix it thoroughly. The more it is wrought with the 
pestle, the whiter it becomes. Put it into the dish 
for the table, smooth the top into proper shape, and 
set it into the stove to brown. To prepare it in the 
nicest manner, beat the yolk of an egg and spread 
over the top before putting it into the stove. If you 
do not care to take all this trouble, it is very good 
without being browned. 

POTATOES, RAW OR COLD, 
TO FRY 

Wash, peel, and put them into cold water for 1 
or 2 hours, cut them into slices about ^ inch thick, 
and fry them a light brown in boiling clarified beef 
suet. Cold boiled potatoes, cut in slices, may be 
done in the same manner. 



POTATO FRITTERS 

Peel and pound in a mortar 6 mealy potatoes with 
a little salt, a glass of white w^ine, some pounded 
sugar, cinnamon, and 1 ounce of butter; roll it out 
with a little flour, cut them the size of a wine glass, 
and fry them in boiling clarified dripping. Serve 
them with sifted loaf suo^ar over them. 



Vegetables 57 



'is 



POTATOES, FRIED IN 
SLICES OR RIBBONS 

Peel large potatoes, slice them about \ inch thick, 
or cut them in shavings round and round, as you 
would peel a lemon ; dry them well in a clean cloth, 
and fry them in lard or dripping. Take care that 
your fat and frying-pan are quite clean, put it on 
a quick fire, watch it, and as soon as the lard boils, 
and is still, put in the slices of potatoes, and keep 
moving them till they are crisp. Take them up, and 
lay them to drain on a sieve ; send them up with a 
very little salt sprinkled over them. 

POTATOES, FRIED 
W HOLE 

When nearly boiled enough, put them into a stew- 
pan with a bit of butter, or some nice clean beef- 
drippings; shake them about often (for fear of burn- 
ing them ) , till they are brown and crisp ; drain them 
from the fat. 

Obs. — It will be an elegant improvement previous 
to frying or broiling the potatoes, to flour them and 
dip them in the yolk of an ^gg, and then roll them 
in fine-sifted bread crumbs. They will then deserve 
to be called Potatoes Full Dressed. 



58 The New England Cook Book 



POTATOES, SCALLOPED 

Mash potatoes as directed, then butter some nice 
clean scallop-shells, patty-pans, or tea-cups or sau- 
cers ; put in your potatoes ; make them smooth at the 
top ; cross a knife over them ; strew a few fine bread 
crumbs on them; sprinkle them with a paste-brush 
with a few drops of melted butter, and then set them 
in a Dutch oven ; when they are browned on the top, 
take them carefully out of the shells, and brown the 
other side. 



POTATO SNOW 

The potatoes must be free from spots, and the 
whitest you can pick out ; put them on in cold water ; 
when they begin to crack, strain the water from them, 
and put them into a clean stewpan by the side of the 
fire till they are quite dry, and fall to pieces ; rub 
them through a wire sieve on the dish they are to be 
sent up in, and do not disturb them afterwards. 

SWEET POTATOES 

They are best baked; are very nice boiled till ten- 
der, and then pared and laid into the oven to brown. 
They require more time for being cooked than the 
common potato. Cold sweet potatoes are excellent 



Vegetables 59 

sliced and browned on the griddle. When one side 
is done, sprinkle salt over before turning them. 



RICE CHEESE 

Boil 1 ounce of rice, thick as hasty pudding, in 
rather less than -J pint of milk; pour it hot on 1^ 
ounces of butter, the same weight of sugar, mixing 
it well together ; let it stand till cold ; then add 1 egg 
and the yolk of another, and a little white wine. 

RICE CROQUETTES 

Wash and scald ^ pound of rice, put it into a 
saucepan with the rind of a lemon, shred small; ^ 
pound of powdered sugar, a pinch of salt, a little 
crisped orange flowers, 1 ounce of butter, and ^ pint 
of milk; set these on the fire, and when the rice is 
quite soft, add the yolks of 4 eggs, stir them in over 
the fire, but do not let them boil; pour the prepara- 
tion on a large tin or slab, spread it equally ; let it 
cool, and then divide it into small equal parts; roll 
these into balls, dip them into beaten egg, roll them 
in bread crumbs, and fry them in a very hot fat. As 
soon as the croquettes are of a nice color, drain ; 
sprinkle them with powdered sugar, and serve them. 



60 The New Enpland Cook Book 



t»' 



SALSIFY, OR OYSTER 
PLANT 

(1) 

Boil it till tender, then pour off the water, and add 
a little milk, and a little salt and butter. 

SALSIFY, OR OYSTER 
PLANT 

(2) 

Parboil it, scraping off the outside, cut it in slices, 
dip it into beaten egg and fine bread crumbs, and fry 
it in lard. 

SALSIFY, OR OYSTER 
PLANT 

(3) 

Make a batter of wheat flour, milk and eggs, and a 
little salt. Cut the salsify in slices ; after it is boiled 
tender, put it in the batter, and drop this mixture 
into hot fat by the spoonful. Cook them a light 
brown. 

SALSIFY 

(-1) 

Wash and scrape it very thoroughly, and put It in 
boiling water with salt in it. When tender, cut it in 



Vegetables 61 

slices and fry it in hot fat, in a batter made of an 
egg, milk, flour, and salt. It is very nice, also, 
dipped in bread crumbs moistened with a beaten egg, 
and browned on a griddle. 



SUCCOTASH 

Cut off the corn from the cobs, and, 1^ hours be- 
fore dinner, put the cobs, with a few shelled beans, 
into cold water to boil. After 1 hour take out the 
cobs, put in the corn and boil it ^ hour. There 
should be no more water than will be necessary to 
make the succotash of the right thickness, as having 
too much occasions a loss of the richness imparted by 
the cobs. When you take it up, add a small piece 
of butter. This is much better than to boil the corn 
on the cob and then cut it off. 

It is a very good way, when a family are tired of 
fresh meat in hot weather, to boil a piece of pork in 
another pot until the grossest fat has boiled out, and 
then put it with the succotash for the remainder of 
the time. It gives a very good flavor to the corn, 
and makes an excellent dinner. 



SUMMER SQUASH 

If the rind is tender, boil it whole, in a little bag 
kept for the purpose. It should be put into boiling 



62 TJie New England Cook Book 

water ; f of an hour is long enough to cook it. Take 
the bag into a pan and press it with the edge of a 
plate or with a ladle, until the water is out; then 
turn the squash out into a dish, add salt and butter, 
and smooth over the top. 

WINTER SQUASH 

Cut it up and take out the inside. Pare the pieces, 
and stew them in as little water as possible. If you 
have a tin with holes in it, which will fit the kettle and 
keep the squash from touching the water, it is the 
nicest way to steam it. Be careful it does not burn. 
It will cook in 1 hour. Mash it in a dish, or, if it is 
watery, squeeze it in a coarse cloth like summer 
squash. Stir in butter and salt. Lay it into the dish, 
smooth the top, and, if you like, pepper it. 

SPINAGE 

Put it into a net, or a bag of coarse muslin, kept 
for the purpose, and boil it in a plenty of water with 
salt in it, 10 or 12 minutes. All kinds of greens 
should be boiled in plenty of water, else they will be 
bitter. 

One method of serving spinage is to press it be- 
tween two plates, then put it into a saucepan with 
a small bit of butter, salt, and a little cream, and 
boil it up. Another is to drain it thoroughly, lay 



Vegetables 63 

it in the dish, put upon the top hard-boiled eggs, 
sHced, and pour melted butter over it. 

TURNIPS 

Peel off ^ inch of the stringy outside. Full-grown 
turnips will take about IJ hours gentle boiling; if 
you slice them, which most people do, they will be 
done sooner ; try them with a fork ; when tender, take 
them up, and lay them on a sieve till the v/ater is 
thoroughly drained from them. Send them up 
whole; do not slice them. 

YOUNG WHITE TURNIPS 

Wash, peel, and boil them till tender in water with 
a little salt; serve them with melted butter poured 
over them. Or, they may be stewed in 1 pint of milk 
thickened with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and 
seasoned with salt and pepper, and served with the 
sauce. 

TURNIP TOPS 

Turnip tops are the shoots which grow out (in the 
spring) of the old turnip roots. Put them into cold 
water 1 hour before they are to be dressed ; the more 
water they are boiled in, the better they will look; if 
boiled in a small quantity of water they will taste 
bitter: when the water boils, put in a small handful 



64 The New England Cook Book 

of salt, and then your vegetables ; if fresh and young 
they will be done in about ^0 minutes ; drain them on 
the back of a sieve. 



TURNIPS, TO BOIL, YEL- 
LOW OR LARGE WHITE 

Wash, pare, and throw them into cold water; put 
them on in boiling water with a little salt, and boil 
them from 2 to 2| hours, drain them in a colander, 
put them into a saucepan, and mixing in a bit of 
butter, with a beater mash them very smoothly, add 
■^ pint of milk, mix it well with the turnips, and make 
them quite hot before serving. If they are to be 
served plain, dish them as soon as the water is 
drained off. 

MASHED TURNIPS 

Boil them in salt and water at least 1^ hours, un- 
less they are of early growth. Take them from the 
kettle into a deep dish, press them a little and pour 
off the water; mash them like potatoes, but use no 
milk, as they are moist enough. Add salt and a 
little butter. 

It is a very nice way to put an equal number of 
potatoes and turnips together, and mash them until 
they are thoroughly mixed. This is a favorite dish 
among the Dutch in the State of New York. 



Meats 



JT 



A-LA-MODE BEEF 

A round of fresh beef weighing from 18 to 
^0 pounds, 

1 pound of the fat of bacon or corned 

pork, the marrow from the bone of the 
beef, and \ pound of beef suet, all 
chopped together, 

2 bundles of pot herbs, parsley, thyme, 

small onions, etc., chopped fine, 
2 large bunches of sweet marjoram and % 

bunches of sweet basil, sufficient when 

powdered to make four tablespoonfuls 

of each, 
^ large nutmegs and \ ounce of cloves, 

beaten to a powder, 
■J ounce of mace, 
1 tablespoonful of salt, 

1 tablespoonful of pepper, 

2 glasses of Madeira wine. 

If your a-la-mode beef is to be eaten cold, prepare 
it three days before it is wanted. 



66 The New England Cook Booh 

Take out the bone. Fasten up the opening with 
skewers, and tie the meat all round with tape. Rub 
it all over on both sides with salt. A large round of 
beef will be more tender than a small one. 

Chop the marrow and suet together. Pound the 
spice. Chop the pot-herbs very fine.- Pick the 
sweet marjoram and sweet basil clean from the stalks, 
and rub the leaves to a powder. You must have at 
least 4 tablespoonfuls of each. Add the pepper and 
salt, and mix well together all the ingredients that 
compose the seasoning. Stew in covered dish 16 
hours. 

X-LA-MODE BEEF 

(2) 

Cut the fat of the bacon or pork into pieces about 
\ inch thick and 2 inches long. With a sharp knife 
make deep incisions all over the round of beef and 
very near each other. Put first a little of the season- 
ing into each hole, then a slip of the bacon pressed 
down hard and covered with more seasoning. Pour 
a little wine into each hole. 

When you have thus stuffed the upper side of the 
beef, turn it over and stuff in the same manner the 
under side. If the round is very large, you will 
require a larger quantity of seasoning. 

Put it in a deep baking dish, pour over it some 
wine, cover it, and let it set till next morning. It 



Meats 67 

will be much the better for lying all night in the 
seasoning. 

Next day put a little water in the dish, set it in a 
covered oven, and bake or stew it gently for 12 
hours at least, or more if it is a large round. It will 
be much improved by stewing it in lard. Let it 
remain all night in the oven. 

If it is to be eaten hot at dinner, put it in to stew 
the evening before, and let it cook till dinner-time the 
next day. Stir some wine and a beaten egg into the 
gravy. 

If brought to table cold, cover it all over with 
green parsley, and stick a large bunch of something 
green in the center. 

What is left will make an excellent hash the next 
day. 



BEEF FILLET, ROASTED 

This fillet lies only on the inside of the sirloin next 
to the chin, and is the tenderest part of the ox ; spit 
this on a small spit, but do not run it through the 
best part of the meat: roast it gently, and baste it 
with butter; catch gravy in a dish while the beef is 
roasting; in the meantime make a sauce for it with 
sweet herbs and parsley shred fine, the yolk of 4 eggs, 
an onion, and some orange-peel chopped small; put 
these into sweet butter, gravy, 1 to 2 spoonfuls of 



68 The New Enghfid Cook Book 

strong broth and vinegar, stew them all together. 
Put your beef into this sauce and serve it hot. 



BEEF FILLET IN MADEIRA 

Lard a good fillet of beef, the same as for roast- 
ing, join the ends together, and place it in this man- 
ner in a stewpan, with some onions, carrots, and a 
bouquet garni, with some consomme and Madeira, 
cover it with a buttered paper; let it boil for a 
moment, and afterwards let it boil slowly. Put fire 
upon the top of your stewpan. When it is done 
strain the broth through a silk sieve, reduce it, and 
serve it as a sauce to your meat. 

BEEFSTEAK PIE 

Cut the steaks off a rump, or any nice piece of 
beef, fat and lean together, about ^ inch thick; beat 
them a little with a rolling pin, put over them some 
pepper, salt, and parboiled onion minced; roll them 
up and pack them neatly into the dish, or lay the 
beef in slices; add some spoonfuls of gravy, and 1 
teaspoonful of vinegar. Cover the pie with a puff 
paste, and bake it for an hour. It is a common but 
mistaken opinion, that it is necessary to put stock or 
water into meat pies. Beef, mutton, veal and pork, 
if not previously dressed, will be found to yield a 
sufficiency of gravy, and the pie will be better with- 



3Ieats 69 

out any additional liquid. Large o3^sters, parboiled, 
bearded, and laid alternately with the steaks, their 
liquor reduced and substituted instead of the catsup 
and wine, will be a variety. 

BEEFSTEAK PUDDING 

Get rump steaks, not too thick, beat them with a 
chopper, cut them into pieces about half the size of 
your hand, and trim off all the skin, sinews, etc. ; 
have ready an onion peeled and chopped fine, like- 
wise some potatoes peeled and cut into slices ^ inch 
thick ; rub the inside of a basin or an oval plain mold 
with butter, sheet it with paste as directed for boiled 
puddings, season the steaks with pepper, salt and a 
little grated nutmeg; put In a layer of steak, then 
another of potatoes, and so on till it is full, occa- 
sionally throwing in part of the chopped onion; add 
to it ^ gill of mushroom catsup, 1 tablespoonful of 
lemon-pickle, and ^ gill of water or veal broth; roll 
out a top, and close it well to prevent the water get- 
ting in; rinse a clean cloth in hot water, sprinkle a 
little flour over it, and tie up the pudding; have 
ready a large pot of water boiling, put it in and boil 
it two hours and a half ; take it up, remove the cloth, 
turn it downwards In a deep dish, and when wanted 
take away the basin or mold. 



70 The New England Cook Booh 



& 



BEEF, COLD TENDERLOIN 

Cut off the meat, with a little of the fat, into 
strips 3 inches long and ^ inch thick; season with 
pepper and salt, dredge them with flour, and fry 
them brown in butter; then simmer them in a rich 
brown gravy; add of mushroom, catsup, onion, and 
shallot vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of each. Garnish 
with fried parsley. 

BEEF HEART, TO ROAST 

Wash it well, and clean all the blood carefully 
from the pipes; parboil it 10 or 15 minutes in boil- 
ing water; drip the water from it; put in a stuffing 
that has been made of bread crumbs, minced suet or 
butter, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, and parsley, 
seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Put it 
down to roast while hot, baste it well with butter, 
froth it up, and serve it with melted butter and vine- 
gar; or with gravy in the dish, and currant jelly in 
a sauce-tureen. 

FRIZZLED BEEF 

Sliver smoked beef, pour on boiling water to 
freshen it, then pour off the water and frizzle the 
beef in butter. 



Meats 71 



BEEF RUMP, BAKED 

Take a rump of beef, what size you please, bone 
and lard it, season it with salt and fine spices ; put it 
into a stewpan just large enough to hold it, together 
with ^ pint of white wine, some green onions, mush- 
rooms, and shallots ; some lean bacon is an improve- 
ment. Place in covered pan, let it stew in an oven 
for 5 or 6 hours according to the size of your meat, 
then serve it with its own sauce, strained. You may 
dress a sirloin in the same way. 

BEEF RAGOUT 

Take a rump of beef, cut the meat from the bone, 
flour and fry it^ pour over it a little boiling water, 
about 1 pint of small beer; add a carrot or two, an 
onion stuck with cloves, some whole pepper, salt, a 
piece of lemon-peel, a bunch of sweet herbs; let it 
stew 1 hour, then add some good gravy; when the 
meat is tender take it out, strain the sauce, thicken 
it with a little flour, add a little celery ready boiled, 
a little catsup, put in the meat, just simmer it up. 
Or the celery may be omitted, and the ragout en- 
riched by adding mushrooms, fresh or pickled; arti- 
choke blossoms boiled and quartered, and hard yolks 
of eggs. A piece of flank, or any piece that can be 
cut free from bone, will do instead of the rump. 



72 The New England Cook Book 



BEEF KIDNEY PIE 

Cut some kidneys into thin slices, and place them 
m the bottom of your pie-dish, then sweet herbs 
chopped, such as parsley, thyme, shallots, mush- 
rooms, pepper and salt; continue this till the dish is 
full, then cover the whole with slices of bacon, then 
finish your pie ; bake it in the oven ; when done, take 
out the bacon, and skim the fat; make a sauce with 
a glass of white wine, a tolerable quantity of cullis, 
and reduce it to the consistence of a good sauce, then 
squeeze an orange in it. Serve your pie hot. 

BEEF SHIN, STEWED 

Desire the butcher to saw the bone into three or 
four pieces, put it into a stewpan and just cover it 
with cold water ; when it simmers, skim it clean ; then 
put in a bundle of sweet herbs, a large onion, a head 
of celery, a dozen berries of black pepper, and the 
same of allspice ; stew very gently over a slow fire till 
the meat is tender; this will take from about 3^ to 
4i^ hours. Take 3 carrots, peel and cut them into 
small squares ; peel and cut ready into small squares 
a couple of turnips with a couple of dozen of small 
young, round, silver, button onions ; boil them till ten- 
der; the turnips and onions will be cooked enough in 
about 15 minutes; the carrots will require about twice 



3Ieats 73 

as long: drain them dry. When the beef is quite 
tender, take it out carefully with a slice, and put it 
on a dish while you thicken IJ pints of the gravy : to 
do this, mix 3 tablespoonfuls of flour with 1 tea- 
cupful of the beef liquor; stir this thoroughly to- 
gether till it boils, skim off the fat, strain it through 
a sieve^ and put your vegetables in to warm; season 
with pepper, salt, and a wine-glass of mushroom 
catsup, or Port wine, or both, and pour it over the 
beef. A leg of mutton is excellent dressed the same 
way. 

BEEF SIRLOIN 

The noble sirloin of about 15 pounds (if much 
thicker, the outside will be done too much before the 
inside is enough), will require to be roasted about 3^ 
or 4 hours ; put a little clean dripping into the drip- 
ping-pan (tie a sheet of paper over it to preserve 
the fat), baste it well as soon as it is put down, and 
every quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting, 
till the last half hour; then take off the paper and 
make some gravy for it; to brown and froth it, 
sprinkle a little salt over it, baste it with butter, and 
dredge it with flour; let it go a few minutes longer 
till the froth rises, take it up, put it on the dish, etc. 
Garnish it with hillocks of horseradish, scraped as 
fine as possible with a very sharp knife. A York- 
shire pudding is an excellent accompaniment. 



74 The New England Cook Book 



BEEF, STEWED 

Stew in 5 quarts of water the middle part of a 
brisket of beef weighing 10 pounds, add 2 onions 
stuck with 2 cloves, 1 head of celery, 1 large carrot, 
2 turnips cut small, a handful of sorrel leaves, J 
ounce of black pepper and some salt. Stew it gently 
for 6 hours. Make a strong gravy with carrots and 
turnips, the turnips to be scraped and fried of a 
brown color in butter; add pepper, salt, a little cay- 
enne; thicken it with flour and butter, and pour it 
over the beef, with the carrots and turnips. 

CORNED BEEF 

Choose a good lean piece of corn beef weighing 12 
pounds. Wash carefully, place in pot and cover 
with cold water. Let it boil slowly for 6 hours and 
be careful to remove the scum as it rises. If boiled 
vegetables are to be served with the corned beef such 
as carrots and turnips, they may be boiled in the com 
beef liquor. 

CORN BEEF HASH 

Take equal quantities of finely chopped cold 
cooked corned beef and cold boiled potatoes; for 1 
pint of each, saute 2 tablespoonfuls of finely chopped 



Meats 75 

onion in 1 tablespoonful of hot butter, and 1 table-, 
spoonful of flour, stir and cook 2 minutes, add 1 
cup of stock or broth. When boiling, add the hash, 
season with \ teaspoonful of pepper and a level tea- 
spoonful of salt, a grating of nutmeg and a tea- 
spoonful of finely chopped parsley; let cook 5 min- 
utes and serve. 



CALF'S FOOT JELLY 

4 feet, 

4 quarts cold water, 

2 lemons, 

2 inch stick cinnamon, 

3 eggs, 

1 pint of wine, 
^ box gelatine. 

Wash and split the feet, add water and cook at a 
low temperature until the amount of liquid is re- 
duced one-half. Strain through a clean flannel or 
napkin and a sieve. When cold remove the fat, add 
the whites and the shells of the eggs, the cinnamon, 
sugar (dissolved gelatine), and juice of the lemons. 
Stir until warm. Cook slowly 15 minutes. Add the 
wine. Skim and strain through a napkin into 
tumblers. 



76 The New England Cook Book 
CALF LIVER, BROILED 

Slice it, season with pepper and salt, and broil 
nicely: rub a bit of cold butter on it, and serve hot. 

CALF'S HEART, ROASTED 

Fill the heart with the following forcemeat: a 
^ pound of beef suet, chopped small, grated bread, 
parsley, marjoram, lemon-peel, pepper, salt, nutmeg 
and the yolk of an egg. Lay a veal caul, or a sheet 
of paper on the stuffing to keep it in its place. Put 
the heart into the oven, and baste it frequently till 
thoroughly roasted. Garnish with slices of lemon, 
and pour melted butter over it. 

CALF'S LIVER, LARDED 
AND ROASTED 

Lard a fine calf's liver the same as a fricandeau, 
and let it lie for 24 hours in vinegar, with a sliced 
onion, some parsley, a little thyme, a bay leaf, some 
salt and pepper. Roast and baste it well with but- 
ter, then glaze it with a light glaze, and serve it with 
a poivrade, or any other sauce. 

HAM WITH MADEIRA 

Soak in water for S hours a fine ham, boil it for 2 
hours, trim it quickly, and then put it into a stewpan. 



Meats 77 

with thin sHces of veal at the bottom ; add some car- 
rots and parsley, and season with spices. Pour over 
the ham 1 pint of rich stock and a bottle of Madeira ; 
let it boil for two hours, strain and skim the fat off 
the sauce, which, with the ham, must be served quite 
hot. 

HAM ROASTED WITH 
MADEIRA 

Take a fine ham, pare and trim it of as round a 
form as possible, take off the end bone, and remove 
the rind from the knuckle; then lay the ham on a 
gridiron over the fire, till you can take it up with 
ease; soak it, if necessary, and put it in a pan, with 
slices of carrots and onions, thyme, bay leaf, and 
coriander ; pour a bottle of Madeira upon it, cover it 
with a clean cloth, and close the pan as tight as pos- 
sible, and let it remain 24 hours ; then wrap the ham 
in very thick paper, fasten it with paste, so that it 
may be completely enclosed, tie it on a spit, and put 
it to roast for 3 hours ; then make a small hole in the 
paper, and pour in, by means of a funnel, the Ma- 
deira wine, paste paper over the hole, and let it roast 
another hour. When done, take off the paper care- 
fully, so that none of the gravy may escape, mix it 
with some reduced espagnole, glaze the ham, and 
serve it. 



78 The New England Cook Book 



HAM TO STEW 

Soak the ham in lukewarm water for 12 hours, 
drain it, and scrape the rind; put it into a stewpan 
with some shces of fat bacon round the sides, 4 
quarts of weak stock, a good deal of parsley, a 
bunch of sweet herbs, 6 large onions, 4 carrots, a 
little allspice and pepper, 1 pint of Madeira and 1 
of Port wine. Cover the ham with slices of fat 
bacon, and put over it a sheet of white paper; stew 
it 8 hours, or 10 if it be a very large ham. Before 
serving, take off the rind, strain the sauce, skim it 
well, and boil it till reduced to a glaze, and pour it 
round the ham, or serve it with any other sauce that 
may be preferred. 

HAM TOAST 

Cut some crumb of bread into thin slices; then 
take an equal number of thin slices of ham ; beat them 
well with a rolling pin, and then soak them in warm 
water for about 2 hours; then take them out, dry 
them well, and put them into a saucepan with a lit- 
tle bacon, a slice of veal, and -J glass of stock; let 
them boil for ^ hour, and then add ^ glass of veal 
Blond. Fry your bread to a nice color in some lard ; 
lay it on a dish, and on each piece lay a slice of ham ; 
pour the sauce over them. Take particular care to 



Meats 79 

cut the ham as nearly as possible the size and shape 
of the bread. 

HARICOT MUTTON 

(1) 

Cut the best end of a neck or loin of mutton, that 
has been kept till tender, into chops of equal thick- 
ness, 1 rib to each ; trim off some of the fat, and 
the lower end of the chine bone, and scrape it clean, 
and lay them in a stewpan, with 1 ounce of butter; 
set it over a smart fire. If your fire is not sharp, 
the chops will be done before they are colored. The 
intention of frying them is merely to give them a 
very light browning. 

While the chops are browning, peel and boil a 
couple of dozen of young button onions in about 3 
pints of water for about 15 or 20 minutes, set them 
by, and pour off the liquor they were boiled in into 
the stewpan with the chops. If that is not sufficient 
to cover them, add as much boiling water as will 
remove the scum as it rises, and be careful they are 
not stewed too fast or too much; so take out one of 
them with a fish-slice, and try it. When they are ten- 
der, which will be in about \^ hours, then pass the 
gravy through a sieve into a basin, set in the open air 
that it may get cold. You may then easily and com- 
pletely skim off the fat. In the meantime set the 
meat and the vegetables by the fire to keep hot, and 



80 The New England Cook Booh 

pour some boiling water over the button onions to 
warm them. Have about 6 ounces of carrots, and 8 
ounces of turnips peeled and cut into slices, or shaped 
into balls about as big as a nutmeg. Boil the car- 
rots about ^ hour, the turnips about \ hour, and 
put them on a sieve to drain, and then put them round 
the dish the last thing. 

HARICOT MUTTON 

(2) 

Thicken the gravy by putting 1 ounce of butter 
into a stewpan; when it is melted, stir in as much 
flour as will stiffen it; pour the gravy to it by de- 
grees, stir together till it boils; strain it through a 
fine sieve or tamis into a stewpan ; put in the carrots 
and turnips to get warm, and let it simmer gently 
while you dish up the meat ; lay the chops round a 
dish, put the vegetables in the middle, and pour the 
thickened gravy over. Some put in capers, minced 
gherkins, etc. 

Rump steaks, veal-cutlets, and beef-tails, make ex- 
cellent dishes dressed in the like manner. 

LAMB CHOPS 

Cut a neck or loin of lamb into chops; rub them 
over with the beaten yolk of an egg; dip them into 
grated bread, mixed with plenty of chopped pars- 



Bleats 81 

ley, and season with lemon-peel, pepper, and salt; 
fry them a light brown in good dripping; make a 
sauce with the trimmings, and thicken the same with 
butter rolled in flour; add a little lemon-pickle and 
mushroom catsup. Garnish with fried parsley. 
They may be served with or without the gravy. 

LAMB CHOPS, BROILED 

Cut a loin or best end of the neck into chops, flat- 
ten them, and cut off' the fat and skin ; rub the grid- 
iron with a little fat, and broil them on a clear fire. 
Turn them with steak tongs, till quite done. Serve 
them hot. 

LAMB CUTLETS 

Cut the cutlets off the loin, into round bits; trim 
off^ the fat and skim ; dip them into the beaten yolk 
of an egg, and then into bread crumbs, mixed with 
minced parsley, grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel, pep- 
per and salt. Fry them a light brown in clarified 
beef suet; drain them on the back of a sieve before 
the fire. Serve them with melted butter with a little 
lemon-pickle in it, or a brown sauce thickened. 
Garnish with cut lemon. 



82 The New England Cook Book 

LAMB DRESSED 
WITH RICE 

Half roast a small fore quarter of lamb; cut it 
into steaks, season them with a little salt and pep- 
per; lay them into a dish, and pour in a little water. 
Boil a pound of rice with a blade or two of mace; 
strain it and stir in a good piece of fresh butter, and 
a little salt; add also the greater part of the yolks 
of 4 eggs beaten; cover the lamb with the rice, and 
with a feather put over it the remainder of the beaten 
eggs. Bake it in an oven till it has acquired a light 
brown color. 

LEG OF LAMB, 
BOILED 

It should be boiled in a cloth, that it may look as 
white as possible. Cut the loin in steaks, dip them 
in ^ggi strew them over with bread crumbs, and fry 
them a nice brown, serve them round the dish, and 
garnish with dried or fried parsley. Serve with 
spinage to eat with it. 

LAMB PIE, A SAVORY ONE 

Cut the meat into pieces, and season it with pep- 
per, salt, mace, cloves, and nutmeg, finely beaten. 



Meats 83 

Make a good pufF paste crust, put the meat into it, 
with a few lamb stones and sweetbreads, seasoned 
the same as the meat. Then put in some oysters and 
forcemeat balls, the yolks of hard eggs, and the tops 
of asparagus, about S inches long, first boiled green. 
Put butter all over the pie, put on the lid, and let 
it bake for 1^ hours in a quick oven. In the mean- 
time, take a pint of gravy, the oyster liquor, a gill 
of red wine, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix all 
together with the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs, finely beaten, 
and keep stirring it the same way all the time. When 
it boils, pour it into the pie ; put on the lid again, and 
serve it to table. 

LAMB, TO ROAST OR BOIL 

A quarter of an hour is generally allowed to each 
pound of meat. A leg of lamb of 5 pounds will 
therefore take 1^ hours to roast or boil, the other 
joints in the same proportion. Serve either with 
salad, pickles, brocoli, cauliflowers, string beans, peas, 
potatoes, or cucumbers, raw or stewed. 

LAMB SHOULDER, 
GRILLED 

Boil it; score it in checkers about an inch square, 
rub it over with the yolk of an egg ; pepper and salt 
it; strew it with bread crumbs and dried parsley, or 



84 The New England Cook Book 

sweet herbs ; grill, or broil it over a clear fire, or put 
it in a Dutch oven till it is a nice light brown ; send 
up some gravy with it, or make g, sauce for it of 
flour and water well mixed together with an ounce of 
fresh butter, a tablespoonful of mushroom or wal- 
nut catsup, and the juice of ^ lemon. Breasts of 
lamb are often done in the same way, and with mush- 
room or mutton sauce. 

LAMB STEAKS, FRIED 

Fry them of the nicest brown. When served, 
throw over them a good quantity of crumbs of bread 
fried, and crisped parsley. Or you may season 
them and broil them in buttered papers, either with 
crumbs and herbs, or without, according to taste. 

MARROW BONES 

Chop the bones at each end so as to stand steady; 
then wash them clean ; saw them in halves ; cover the 
top with a floured cloth. Boil them and serve with 
dry toast. 

MEAT CROQUETTES 

1 pint of chopped cooked meat, 
1 teaspoonful of salt, 

1 cup of thick cream sauce (use double 
quantity of flour to make it thick), 



Meats 85 

1 teaspoonful of lemon juice, 

a few grains of Cayenne pepper, 

1 tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce, 

2 eggs. 

After heating the meat in the cream sauce, add 
the seasonings and well-beaten egg; then set aside 
to cool, after which shape into cones, cover with 
bread crumbs, diluted egg and crumbs, and cook in 
smoking hot fat. 

For chicken croquettes mix equal parts of chopped 
chicken, sweetbreads, calf brains or veal, with the 
thick cream sauce and proceed as for meat croquettes. 

MUTTON, BREAST, 
ROASTED WITH WINE 

Skin and bone a breast of mutton; then roll it 
up in a collar like a breast of veal. Roast it, and 
baste it with | pint of red wine. When you have 
used up all the wine, finish basting with butter. Have 
a little good gravy in readiness, and when the mut- 
ton is done, set it upright in a dish; pour in the 
gravy; prepare sweet sauce the same as for venison, 
and send it up to table without any garnish. 

MUTTON CHOPS 

Cut the chops off a loin or the best end of a neck 
of mutton, pare off the fat, dip them into a beaten 



86 The New England Cook Booh 

egg, and strew over them grated bread, seasoned with 
pepper, salt, and some finely-minced parsley ; fry them 
in a little butter, and lay them upon the back of 
a sieve to drain before the fire. Thicken about -J 
pint of gravy, add a tablespoonful of catsup, and 
1 of Port wine ; put the gravy into the dish, and lay 
in the chops; garnish with fried parsley or cut 
lemon. 

MUTTON CHOPS, BAKED 

Cut a neck of mutton into neat chops, season 
them with salt and pepper, butter a dish, lay in the 
chops and pour over them a batter made of 1 quart 
of milk, 4 eggs beaten up, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 
and a little salt. An hour will bake them. 

MUTTON, ROLLED 

Bone a shoulder of mutton carefully, so as not to 
injure the skin, cut all the meat from the skin, mince 
it small, and season it highly with pepper, nutmeg, 
and a clove, some parsley, lemon thyme, sweet mar- 
joram, and a pounded onion, all well mixed, together 
with a well-beaten yolk of an egg; roll it up very 
tightly in the skin, tie it round, and bake it in 
an oven 2 or S hours, according to the size of the 
mutton. Make a gravy of the bones and parings, 
season with an onion, pepper and salt, strain and 



Meats 87 

thicken it with flour and butter; add vinegar, mush- 
room catsup, soy, and lemon-pickle, a tablespoon- 
ful of each, and a teacupful of Port wine; garnish 
with forcemeat balls, made of grated bread, and part 
of the mince. 

MUTTON SHOULDER, 
BAKED 

Lard a shoulder of mutton with streaked bacon; 
put it into an earthen stewpan proportioned to the 
size of the joint of meat, with 2 or 3 slices of onions, 
a parsnip and carrot sliced, 1 clove of garlic, 2 cloves, 
half a bay leaf and some basil; add about ^ pint of 
water or stock (stock is the best), some salt and pep- 
per; put the meat into the sauce, and set it in an 
oven. When the meat is done, strain the sauce 
through a sieve, and skim it, squeezing the vegetables 
so as to make a thickening for your sauce. Serve the 
sauce with the meat. 

MUTTON SHOULDER, 
STEWED 

Bone a shoulder of mutton with a sharp knife, and 
fill the space with the following stuffing: grated 
bread, minced suet, parsley, pepper, salt, and nut- 
meg, mixed with the yolks of two well-beaten eggs. 
Sew or fasten it with small skewers ; brown it in a 



88 The New England Cook Book 

frjing-pan with a bit of butter. Break the bone, 
put it into a saucepan, with some water, an onion, 
pepper, salt, and a bunch of parsley; let it stew 
till the strength be extracted; strain and thicken it 
with butter rolled in flour; put it, with the mutton, 
and a glass of Port wine, into the saucepan ; cover it 
closely, and let it stew gently for 2 hours. Before 
serving, add 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup. 
Garnish with pickles. 

ROAST YOUNG PIG 

Take a young pig about 3 weeks old, rub with but- 
ter, fill with dressing and roast from IJ to 2 hours. 
Baste it often with olive oil. 

Dressing: Take 5 ounces of stale bread crumbs, 
mince fine a handful of sage; add a large chopped 
onion, add a beaten ^gg-, butter the size of an ^gg 
and salt and pepper to taste. Fill the pig and sew 
it up. Serve whole with an apple in its mouth. 

TO FRY TRIPE 

Cut it into bits 3 or 4 inches square; make a bat- 
ter thicker than for pancakes, of 3 eggs beaten up 
with flour and milk, a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; 
dip in the tripe, and fry it in butter, or fresh drip- 
ping, of a light brown color. Serve it garnished 
with parsley. Sauce: Melted butter with lemon- 
pickle in it. 



Meats 89 

TRIPE, TO BOIL 

Clean it extremely well, and take off the fat; let 
it lie a night in salt and water; again wash it well, 
and let it lie in milk and water for the same length 
of time; then cut it into small pieces, roll and tie 
them with thread; put them, with a clean-washed 
marrow bone, into a linen bag; tie it closely and put 
it into a stewpan that has a cover to fit quite closely, 
fill it up with water, and let it boil gently for 6 hours. 
Take the tripe out of the bag, put it into a jar, and 
pour over it the liquor in which it was boiled. When 
to be dressed, boil some whole small onions in a part 
of the liquor, and a little salt, then put in the tripe 
and beat it thoroughly. 

Or it may be fried in butter fricasseed, or stewed 
in a brown sauce. 

Instead of being boiled in a bag, the tripe may 
be put, with some salt and whole pepper, into a 
stoneware jar, which must have a piece of linen tied 
over it, and a plate laid upon the top. The pot 
should always be kept full of boiling water, taking 
care that it does not boil into the jar. 

TRIPE PIE 

Lay into the bottom of a dish some thinly-sliced 
cold or raw ham, then put in a layer of tripe with 
the jelly adhering to it, season with pepper and salt, 



90 The New England Cook Book 

and add a bit of butter; fill the dish in this manner, 
and put in a few tablespoonfuls of brown stock; 
cover the dish with puff paste. A beefsteak may 
be substituted for the ham, laid into the bottom, and 
the dish filled up with tripe. 

TO ROAST TRIPE 

Cut the tripe into two oblong pieces; make a 
forcemeat of bread crumbs and chopped parsley, sea- 
soned with pepper and salt; bind it with the yolks 
of two eggs ; spread it upon the fat side of the tripe, 
and lay on the other fat side. Then roll it very 
tightly, and tie it with packthread. Roast, and 
baste it with butter. It will take 1 hour, or 1^ hours. 
Serve it with melted butter, into which put a table- 
spoonful of catsup and one of lemon-pickle. 

TRIPE, BREADED 

Cut your tripe into small square pieces, and give 
them a few turns in some butter, with parsley, salt 
and pepper ; roll each bit in grated bread, and broil 
them slowly. When done, serve them with slices of 
lemon. 

TRUFFLES TOURTE 

Take 2 pounds of fine truffles, wash and pick them ; 
put them into a stewpan, with 6 thin slices of ham, 



Meats 91 

a very little carrot, a sliced onion, a bay leaf, sweet 
herbs in powder, salt and Champagne ; lay rashers of 
bacon over the whole, and stew them to nearly a j elly. 
When cold, put the truffles into a crust with all the 
seasoning; bake the tourte, and serve as usual. 

SWEETBREADS FULL 
DRESSED 

Parboil them, and let them get cold. Then cut 
them in pieces, about f inch thick; dip them in the 
yolk of an egg, then in fine bread crumbs (some 
add spice, lemon-peel, and sweet herbs). Put some 
clean dripping into a frying pan. When it boils, 
put in the sweetbreads, and fry them a fine brown. 
For garnish, crisp parsley and for sauce, mushroom 
catsup and melted butter, or anchovy sauce, or bacon 
or ham. 

SWEETBREADS, SMALL 
CASES OF COLLOPS OF 

Blanch and parboil some sweetbreads; cut them 
into small collops. Then chop separately, and 
finely, ^ pint of mushrooms, a little parsley, and 4 
or 6 shallots; add a little fat bacon rasped, and a 
piece of fresh butter; season the collops with pep- 
per, salt and a little mace; stew it all together over 
a slow fire. When done, drain off the fat, place 



92 The New England Cook Book 

the collops in small paper cases, which have been 
fried in olive oil, cover them with plenty of fried 
bread crumbs ; lay the paper cases for a moment into 
the oven, and before serving, pour into each a little 
rich gravy, and a little lemon- juice. 

TO STEW TONGUE 

Wash it very clean, and rub it well with common 
salt and a little saltpeter; let it lie 2 or 3 days, and 
then boil it till the skin will pull off. Put it into 
a saucepan, with part of the liquor it has been boiled 
in, and a pint of good stock. Season with black 
and Jamaica pepper, and 2 or 3 pounded cloves ; add 
a glass of white wine and a tablespoonful of mush- 
room catsup, and 1 of lemon-pickle; thicken the 
sauce with butter rolled in flour, and pour it over 
the tongue. 

A SALT RELISH 

Cut salt pork into thin slices ; fry them till crisp ; 
take them out and pour a little water to the fat; 
dredge in a little flour, and put in a little pepper. 
Then cut up the pork in mouthfuls and put to this 
gravy. 

VENISON 

The choice of venison should be regulated by the 
appearance of the fat, which, when the venison is 



Meats 93 

young, looks thick, clear, and close. As it begins 
to change first towards the haunches, run a knife 
into that part. If tainted, you will perceive a rank 
smell, and it will have a green or blackish appear- 
ance. 

If you wish to preserve it, you may by careful 
management and watching, keep it for a fortnight 
by the following method: Wash it well with milk 
and water very clean, and dry it perfectly with cloths 
until there is not the least damp remaining; then 
dust powdered ginger over every part. This is a 
good preventive against the fly. When to be 
dressed, wash it with a little lukewarm water, and dry 
it. Pepper should also be added to keep it. 

VENISON COLLOPS 

These are dressed in the same manner as mince 
collops of beef, only that, in place of the season- 
ing of the collops of beef, they have a little pepper, 
salt and some Port wine. 

VENISON HASHED 

(1) 

If you have enough of its own gravy left, it is 
preferable to any to warm it up in. If not, take 
some of the mutton gravy, or the bones and trim- 



94 The New Endand Cook Book 



<b' 



niings of the joint (after you have cut off all the 
handsome slices you can to make the hash) ; put these 
into some water, and stew them gently for 1 hour; 
then put some butter into a stewpan; when melted, 
put to it as much flour as will dry up the butter, 
and stir it well together; add to it by degrees the 
gravy you have been making of the trimmings, and 
some red currant jelly: give it a boil up; skim it; 
strain it through a sieve, and it is ready to receive 
the venison. Put it in, and let it just get warm. If 
you let it boil, it will make the meat hard. 

VENISON HASHED 

(2) 

Warm it in its own gravy ; if there is no fat left, 
take some slices of mutton fat, set it on the fire with 
a little Port wine and sugar, and let it simmer till 
dry. Then add it to the meat. 

VENISON HASHED 

(3) 

Take some anchovies, boil them till they are dis- 
solved, then add some oysters with their liquor, a 
little milk, some red wine, and a little catsup ; put 
in your venison, let it warm in this, but do not let it 
boil, and serve it with fried sippets, and the sauce, 
etc., over it. 



Meats 95 



MOCK VENISON 

Hang up, for several days, a large fat loin of 
mutton; then bone it, and take off all the kidney 
fat, and the skin from the upper fat; mix together 
2 ounces of brown sugar, and 1 ounce of ground 
black pepper. Rub it well into the mutton ; pour 
over it 2 or 3 wine glasses of Port wine; keep it 
covered with the skin; rub and turn it daily for 5 
days. When to be roasted, cover it with the skin, 
and paper it the same way as venison is done. Serve 
it with made gravy, and the same sauces as for 
venison. 

VENISON PASTY 

Cut a neck or breast into small steaks, rub them 
over with a seasoning of sweet herbs, grated nut- 
meg, pepper, and salt; fry them slightly in butter; 
line the sides and edges of a dish with puff paste, 
lay in the steaks, and add ^ pint of rich gravy made 
with the trimmings of the venison; add a glass of 
Port wine, and the juice of ^ lemon, or teaspoon- 
ful of vinegar; cover the dish with puff paste, and 
bake it nearly 2 hours. Some more gravy may be 
poured into the pie before serving it. 



96 The New England Cook Book 

VOL-AU-VENT 

(1) 

Cut some cold turkey or veal into small thin slices ; 
season it with dried lemon-peel, grated pepper, 
pounded mace, and salt; add 1 anchovy, some garlic 
and onion pounded, also a little good gravy, a table- 
spoonful of lemon-pickle, 1 of white wine, and 1 
ounce of butter rolled in flour. Then make it quite 
hot, but do not allow it to boil, and serve it in the 
prepared Tol-au-vent, The gravy may be made with 
the bones, or a little cream, and the beaten yolk of 
an egg may be substituted for the cream. 

VOL-AU-VENT 

(2) 

In opening the oysters, separate them from the 
liquor, which must be strained; take off the beards, 
and add to them the liquor, together with some white 
stock, a bit of butter rolled in flour, 2 or 3 blades of 
mace, a bit of lemon-peel, pepper, and salt; sim- 
mer them for 15 or 20 minutes, and a little before 
putting them into the rnl-aur-vent, pick out the 
lemon-peel, add a tablespoonful of white wine, and 
three of good cream, and make it quite hot. To 
make oyster patties, when they are to be bearded, 
cut them into 3 or 4 bits, and prepare them in the 
same manner. 



Meats 97 

VOL-AU-VENT 

(3) 

Roll off tart paste, till about ^ inch thick. Then, 
with a tin cutter made for that purpose (about the 
size of the bottom of the dish you intend sending 
to table) cut out the shape, and lay it on a baking- 
plate with paper; rub it over with yolk of egg; roll 
out good puff paste an inch thick, stamp it with 
the same cutter, and lay it on the tart paste; then 
take a cutter 2 sizes smaller, and press it in the cen- 
ter nearly through the puff paste; rub the top with 
yolk of egg, and bake it in a quick oven about 20 
minutes, of a light brown color. When done, take 
out the paste inside the center mark, preserving the 
top, put it on a dish in a warm place, and when 
wanted, fill it with a white fricassee of chicken, rab- 
bit, ragout of sweetbread, or any other entree you 
wish. 

WINTER HOTCH-POTCH 

Take the best end of a neck or loin of mutton; 
cut it into neat chops; cut 4 carrots, and as many 
turnips into slices ; put on 4 quarts of water, with 
half the carrots and turnips, and a whole one of 
each, with a pound of dried green peas, which must 
be put to soak the night before. Let it boil S hours, 
then take out the whole carrot and turnip; bruise 



98 The New England Cook Book 

and return them; put in the meat, and the rest of 
the carrot and turnip, some pepper and salt, and 
boil slowly f hour. A short time before serving, 
add an onion cut small and a head of celery. 



VEAL CHEESE 

Prepare equal quantities of sliced boiled veal and 
smoked tongue, boiled, skinned, and sliced. 

Pound each separately in a mortar, moistening 
with butter as you proceed. 

Then take a stone jar, or tin can, and mix them 
in it, so that it will, when cut, look mottled and 
variegated. Press it hard and pour on melted but- 
ter. Keep it covered in a dry place. To be used at 
tea in slices. 



VEAL, COLD DRESSED 

Mince finely the fat and lean of cold roast veal; 
season it with grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, pepper, 
and salt; moisten it with a little rich white stock, 
and a beaten egg; butter a pudding shape, put in 
the mince, and press it firmly ; cover it closely, and 
set it into a pan of boiling water; let it boil 1 or 2 
hours. Serve it with a white gravy thickened, or 
when turned out of the shape, rub it over the top 
with the beaten yolk of an egg; sift bread crumbs 



Meats 99 

thickly over, and brown it in a Dutch oven; baste 
it with a little melted butter. Garnish with fried 
parsley or cut lemon. 

VEAL CONES 

Mince small 1^ pounds of cold veal, 2 ounces of 
butter, and a slice of lean ham; pound them in a 
mortar, and mix, in 5 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 
teaspoonfuls of pepper, 1 of salt, and some grated 
lemon-peel. Make it up into cones about 3 inches 
high; rub them over with an egg beaten up, sift 
grated bread over them, and fry them of a light 
brown color ; put fried bread crumbs into the dish, 
and place the cones upon them, or serve them with 
a brown gravy instead of crumbs. Cold fowl, tur- 
key, or rabbit make good cones. Half the ingre- 
dients will be sufficient for a corner dish. 

VEAL CUTLETS 

(1) 

Cut a neck of veal into cutlets, or take them off 
a leg. Season tw^o well-beaten eggs with pounded 
mace, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and finely-chopped 
sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, and parsley; dip the 
cutlets into it, sift over them grated bread, and fry 
them in clarified butter. Serve with a white sauce, 
forcemeat balls, and small mushrooms. Garnish with 
fried parsley. 



100 The New England Cook Book 

VEAL CUTLETS 

(2) 

Cut a neck of veal into thin cutlets, and beat 
them; brown some butter with an onion and some 
parsley chopped small. Dip the cutlets into the but- 
ter, and then into finely-grated bread, seasoned with 
pepper and salt ; broil them of a brown color ; mince 
the peel of -J orange pared very thin; add it and 
a grate of ginger to some good thickened gravy, 
and pour it hot upon the cutlets. 

VEAL FORCEMEAT 

Of undressed lean veal (after you have scraped 
it quite fine, and free from skin and sinews), S 
ounces, the same quantity of beef or veal suet, and 
the same of bread crumbs; chop fine 2 drachms of 
parsley, 1 of lemon-peel, 1 of sweet herbs, 1 of 
onion, and J drachm of mace, or allspice, beaten to 
fine powder; pound all together in a mortar; break 
into it the yolk and white of an egg; rub it all up 
well together, and season it with a little pepper and 
salt. This may be made more savory by the addi- 
tion of cold boiled pickled tongue, anchovy, eschalot, 
Cayenne or curry powder, etc. 



Bleats 101 



VEAL ROLL 

Bone a small breast of veal, and spread over it 
a rich and highly seasoned forcemeat. Cut 4 hard- 
boiled eggs the long way into 4 pieces, and lay 
them in rows, with green pickles between each row. 
Roll up the veal tightly, and sew it ; then put it into 
a cloth, and bind it with tape. Lay a slice of ham 
over it, and put it into a saucepan, together with 
some strong stock, and a little whole pepper, and 
stew it for 3 hours. Make a rich gravy, and boil it 
up with a little white wine and lemon- juice or lemon- 
pickle; pour it over the veal; add some egg and 
forcemeat balls, and garnish with cut green pickles. 
This dish is very good when cold. 

VEAL SAUSAGES 

Take equal quantities of lean veal and fat bacon, 
a handful of sage, and a few anchovies. Beat all 
in a mortar, and season well with pepper and salt. 
When wanted for use, roll and fry it, and serve either 
with fried sippets or on stewed vegetables, or white 
collops. 

VEAL, FILLET, STEWED 

Bone, lard, and stuff a fillet of veal; half roast, 
and then stew it with 2 quarts of white stock, 1 tea- 



102 The New England Cook Book 

spoonful of lemon-pickle and 1 of mushroom catsup. 
Before serving, strain the gravy, thicken it with but- 
ter rolled in flour, add a little Cayenne, salt, and 
some pickled mushrooms ; heat it, and pour it over 
the veal. Have ready ^ or 3 dozen of forcemeat balls 
to put round it and upon the top. Garnish with cut 
lemon. 

VEAL S:fiMELLES 

Cut part of a fillet of veal into slices an inch thick, 
season them with salt and pepper, and give them a 
few turns in a little butter, with a bay leaf. Lay 
at the bottom of a deep saucepan a very thin slice 
of bacon and on it 1 of the slices of veal, and con- 
tinue to lay them in alternately, until the whole are 
used, then add a glass of water and some bay leaves ; 
close the saucepan very tight, first putting a sheet 
of paper over the meat; stew it on hot ashes for 4 
or 5 hours ; take care to keep the fire up to the same 
point all the time. 

VEAL SWEETBREADS, 
ROASTED 

Trim off the tough part, and blanch for 3 min- 
utes in a stewpan of water, with a little salt, 3 heart 
sweetbreads ; then take them out, and put them into 



Meats 103 

a basin of cold water till cool ; have an egg beat up 
in a dish, some bread crumbs and clarified butter, run 
a skewer through the sweetbreads, and fasten them 
on the spit; egg them all over, shake some bread 
crumbs over, then sprinkle clarified butter over, and 
then bread crumbs again; put them down to roast 
again for j hour, then take them off the skewer, 
and serve them on a dish over a little butter sauce, 
mixed with a spoonful of gravy, a small bit of 
glaze, and a squeeze of lemon-juice. Let it be hot, 
but not boiling, and thoroughly well mixed before it 
is served under the sweetbreads, 

VELOUTfi 

Take the cuttings and remains of any joints of 
veal and fowl you may have in the house, of which 
take 4 pounds, and put into a large stewpan, with 
some carrots, onions, parsley, scallions, 3 bay leaves, 
3 cloves, and a ladleful of stock; put your stew- 
pan on a fierce fire, skim it well, and take care that 
the meat does not stick. When sufficiently reduced, 
add as much stock as will nearly fill the stewpan, 
salt it well; give it a boil, skim it, and then put it 
on the side of the fire to simmer for 2 hours, after 
which strain it through a tammy. Make a white 
sauce, stir into it for 10 minutes a few champignons ; 
then pour on it, a little at a time, the above liquor; 



104 The New England Cook Book 

let it boil up once, skim it, and set it again by the 
side of the fire for 1| hours; take off all the fat, 
strain it again, and then put it by for use. Take 
care that the veloute is not in the least colored, as 
the whiter it is the better. 

BAKED PORK AND BEANS 

For a family of 6 or 7, take 1 quart of white 
beans, wash them in several waters, and put them into 
2 or 3 quarts over night. In the morning (when 
it will be easier to cull out the bad ones, than be- 
fore they were soaked), pick them over, and boil 
them until they begin to crack open; then put them 
into a brown pan, such as is made for the pur- 
pose. Pour upon them enough of the water they 
were boiled in almost to cover them. Cut the rind 
of about a pound of salt pork into narrow strips; 
lay it on the top of the beans, and press it down 
so that it will lie more than half its thickness in the 
water. Bake several hours; 4 or 5 is not too much. 
More water may be necessary, before they are done. 

Many persons think it a decided improvement to 
put in a large spoonful or 2 of molasses. It is a 
very good way. 

Those who object to the use of pork, can have a 
very good dish of beans, by substituting 2 table- 
spoonfuls of nice beef-drippings, and adding 2 tea- 
spoonfuls of salt. 



Bleats 105 

To heat over baked beans, put them in a spider 
with a Httle water; heat them slowly at first, and 
cover close. If they are too moist, remove the cover 
and stir them often. 



Poultry and Game 
CAPON 

Take a quart of white wine, season the capon with 
salt, cloves, and whole pepper, a few shallots; and 
then put the capon in an earthen pan. You must 
take care it has not room to shake. It must be cov- 
ered close, and done over a slow fire. 

CHICKEN, BROILED 

Split a couple of chickens, take out the inside 
and backbones, beat them with a wooden spoon, dip 
them in clarified butter, and broil them, the inside 
next the fire (which should be of charcoal), and only 
turn them to color them. When done, pour on them 
a sauce made as follows : Boil some stewed mush- 
rooms with beef stock and plain sauce, an equal quan- 
tity of each, until of a proper consistency ; flavor it 
with lemon-juice and Cayenne pepper. 

CHICKEN CrI^ME 

Parboil a couple of young chickens, cut them in 
pieces, and throw into warm water for ^ hour. Then 

106 



Poultry and Game 107 

do them over the fire in a little fresh butter, with 
salt, parsley, pepper, morels, etc., sprinkle with flour, 
and dilute with a glass of boiling water; cover the 
stewpan close, and let it stand on hot ashes until 
the water has soaked into the chicken; then add ^ 
pint of cream and a little butter. The yolks of 
three eggs may be put in also, but in that case, a 
small quantity of verjuice should be put in before 
the cream. 

CHICKEN CURRY 

Take the skin off, cut up a chicken, and roll each 
piece in curry-powder and flour (mixed together a 
spoonful of flour to ^ ounce of curry) ; fry 2 or 3 
sliced onions in butter. When of a light brown put 
in the meat and fry them together till the meat be- 
comes brown ; then stew them together with a little 
water for 2 or 3 hours. More water may be added 
if too thick. 

CHICKEN BAKED IN RICE 

Cut a chicken into joints as for fricassee, sea- 
son it well with pepper and salt, lay it into a pud- 
ding dish lined with slices of ham or bacon, add 1 
pint of veal gravy, and 1 onion finely minced; fill 
up the dish with boiled rice well pressed and piled 
as high as the dish will hold; cover it with a paste 



108 The New England Cook Book 

of flour and water ; bake it 1 hour, and before serving 
take off the paste. 

CHICKENS FRICASSEE 

Prepare and cut up two chickens; put them in a 
stewpan with some butter, parsley, a bay leaf, thyme, 
basil, 2 cloves, mushrooms, and a slice of ham; let 
them stew till scarcely any sauce remains, then add 
a little flour, warm water, salt and pepper; stew it 
again and reduce the sauce. When nearly done put 
in the yolks of 3 eggs beaten up with a little cream 
or milk; thicken it over the fire, but do not let it 
boil; a small quantity of lemon- juice or vinegar may 
be added. Place the breasts and bones of the chick- 
ens on a dish, lay the legs and wings over them, 
and then pour the sauce over the whole ; garnish with 
the mushrooms. Take off^ the skins before you cut 
up the chickens if you wish the fricassee very white. 

CHICKEN PIE 

Parboil, and then cut up neatly 2 young chickens; 
dry them; set them over a slow fire for a few min- 
utes; have ready some veal stuffing or forcemeat, 
lay it at the bottom of the dish, and place in the 
chickens upon it, and with it some pieces of dressed 
ham; cover it with paste. Bake it from 1^ to 2 
hours. When sent to table, add some good gravy, 



Poultry and Game 109 

well seasoned, and not too thick. Duck pie Is made 
in like manner, only substituting the duck stuffing in- 
stead of the veal. The above may be put into a 
raised French crust and baked. When done, take off 
the top, and put a ragout of sweetbread to the 
chicken. 

CODDLED BIRDS 

Split birds down the back; pepper and salt them 
and put breast down in the pan. Pour over them 
1 cup of boiling water and on each bird put a piece 
of butter 1 inch square. After this melts pour over 
them the following: 

Put into a tumbler the juice of 1 lemon, 2 table- 
spoons Worcestershire sauce and enough sherry or 
Port to fill glass. 

Let them simmer slowly in oven for 1 hour; then 
add 2 small cans of mushrooms and cook on until 
ready: 2 hours for 1 dozen. 

Before taking up add 1 cup of cream, or milk 
thickened with flour. 

DUCK PIE 

Scald a couple of ducks, and make them very 
clean; cut off^ the feet, pinions, necks, and heads. 
Take out the gizzards, livers, and hearts; pick all 
clean, and scald them. Pick out the fat of the in- 



110 The New England Cook Book 

side, season the ducks both inside and out, with pep- 
per and salt, and lay them in the dish, with the giblets 
at each end, properly seasoned. Put in as much 
water as will nearly fill the pie, lay on the crust, 
and let it be well baked. 



ROASTED DUCKS 

Select carefully a pair of tender young ducks, 
singe, draw and wipe dry. Rub over the ducks 1 
teaspoonful of salt, mixed with J spoonful of black 
pepper, and stuff with potato, apple or raisin dress- 
ing; truss and lay them in roasting pan; pour over 
2 ounces of melted butter; set in medium hot oven; 
baste frequently, and when they are a light brown, 
add f cup of giblet broth, which has been made from 
the neck and giblets of the ducks; continue to roast 
until done, which will require about 1^ hours. Serve 
with their own gravy. 

TREMONT DUCKLING 

Quarter 2 small ducklings, dredge with flour and 
sprinkle with salt, brown in 2 ounces of butter, allow 
10 minutes to each side. Add a small chopped onion, 
a cup of fresh mushrooms cut in pieces, and brown 
10 minutes more ; add ^ cup of strained tomato juice, 
the juice of 2 oranges, and 4 tablespoonfuls of Port 
wine, and 1 dozen pitted olives. Season highly with 



Poultry and Game 111 

salt and pepper, cover closely and let cook 50 min- 
utes. Serve with contents of the frying-pan poured 
over the ducklings. 

WILD DUCKS 

For roasting a wild duck, you must have a clear, 
brisk fire, and a hot spit. It must be browned upon 
the outside, without being sodden within. To have 
it well frothed and full of gravy is the nicety. Pre- 
pare the fire by stirring and raking it just before 
the bird is laid do^vn, and 15 or 20 minutes will do 
it in the fashionable way; but if you like it a little 
more done, allow it a few minutes longer. If it is 
too much, it will lose its flavor. 

FOWL, BROILED 

Split them down the back, well salt and pepper 
them; then broil them. Serve with mushroom sauce. 

FOWL WITH ITS 
OWN GRAVY 

Truss a fowl the same as for boiling, lard it quite 
through with bacon, ham, and parsley; put it in a 
pan with a little butter, 2 or 3 slices of peeled lemon, 
a bundle of sweet herbs, 3 cloves, sliced onions, car- 
rots, pepper, salt, a little stock, and a glass of white 



112 The New England Cook Booh 

wine; stew them gently till they are done; skim and 
strain the sauce, and serve it with the fowl. 



FOWL A LA HOLLANDAISE 

Make a forcemeat of grated bread, ^ its quantity 
of minced suet, an onion, or a few oysters, and some 
boiled parsley; season with pepper, salt, and grated 
lemon-peel, and an Qg^ beaten up to bind it. Bone 
the breast of a good-sized young fowl, put in the 
forcemeat, cover the fowl with a piece of white paper 
buttered, and roast it rather more than J hour; have 
ready a thick batter made of flour, milk, and eggs; 
take off the paper, and pour some of the butter over 
the fowl; as soon as it becomes dry add more, and 
do this till it is all crusted over, and of a nice brown 
color; serve it with melted butter and lemon-pickle, 
or a thickened brown gravy. 

FOWL BOILED 
WITH RICE 

Stew a fowl in some well-skimmed clear mutton 
broth, and seasoned with onion, mace, pepper, and 
salt. About ^ hour before it is ready, put in \ pint 
of rice well washed and soaked. Simmer till tender; 
then strain it from the broth, and put the rice on a 
sieve before the fire. Keep the fowl hot, lay it in 
the middle of a dish, and the rice round it without the 



Poultry and Game 113 

broth. The less liquor the fowl is done with, the bet- 
ter. Serve with gravy, or parsley and butter for 
sauce. 

FOWL ROASTED WITH 
CHESTNUTS 

Roast some chestnuts very carefully, so that they 
may not be burnt, then take off the skins, and peel 
them. Take about 1 dozen of them, cut them small, 
and bruise them in a mortar. Parboil the liver of a 
fowl; bruise it, and cut about J pound of ham or 
bacon, and pound it. Then mix them all together, 
with a good quantity of chopped parsley, sweet herbs, 
some mace, pepper, salt and nutmeg. When these 
are all well mixed together, put it into your fowl, 
and roast it. The best way of doing this is to tie 
the neck, and hang it up by the legs to roast, with a 
string, and then baste it with butter. For sauce, 
take the rest of the chestnuts, peel and skin them, 
put them into some good gravy, witH a little white 
wine; and thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in 
flour. Then place your fowl in the dish ; pour in 
the sauce; garnish with lemon, and serve. 

GIBLET PIE 

Stew the giblets in a little water, with an onion 
stuck with 2 or 3 cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs. 



114 The New England Cook Book 

some salt, and whole pepper; cut a fowl into joints, 
skin and wash it^ season it with pepper, salt^ and ^ 
onion finely minced. Take out the onion, herbs, and 
whole pepper; put the fowl, giblets, and gravy into 
a dish, add a glass of white wine, and 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of mushroom catsup; cover the dish with puff 
paste, and bake it for 1 hour. 

GOOSE, ROASTED 

A stubble goose should be stuffed with sage and 
onions, chopped small, and mixed with pepper and 
salt; boil the sage and onion in a little water before 
they are chopped^ or mix a few bread crumbs with 
them when chopped; either will render them less 
strong. Place in covered pan and roast in moderate 
oven. A slip of paper should be skewered on the 
breast bone. Baste it very well. When the breast 
is rising, take off the paper, and be careful to serve 
it before the breast falls ; it will be spoiled by com- 
ing to table flattened. Serve it with good gravy and 
apple sauce. It will take about 1 J hours to roast. 

HARE 

As soon as the cook receives a hare, she should take 
out the liver, etc., wipe it well, put in a little pepper, 
and hang it up. When wanted for dressing, cut off 
the 4 legs at the first joint, raise the skin of the 



Poultry and Game 115 

back, and draw it over the hind legs ; leave the tail 
whole, then draw the skin over the back, and slip out 
the 4 legs; cut it from the neck and head; skin the 
ears and leave them on. Clean the vent. Cut the 
sinews under the hind legs; bring them forward; 
run a skewer through one hind leg, the body, and an- 
other hind leg ; do the same with the fore legs ; lay the 
head rather back; put a skewer in at the mouth, 
through the back of the head and between the shoul- 
ders ; put in the stuffing and tie it round with a string, 
passing it over the legs to keep them in their places. 
The hare is then ready for roasting. 

HARE, JUGGED 

Having skinned a hare, cut off the shoulders and 
legs, and divide the back into 3 pieces ; rub them well 
with fat bacon, and put them into a stewpan with 
the trimmings, allspice, mace, whole pepper, a small 
clove of garlic, 2 bay leaves, 3 onions, parsley, thyme, 
sweet marjoram, 1 quart of veal stock, and 3 gills of 
Port wine ; simmer the whole till three parts done ; then 
take out the shoulders, legs, and back; put them 
into another stewpan, strain the liquor tO' them, add 
a little flour and butter, stew them till quite done; 
take off the fat, season with Cayenne, salt, and lemon- 
juice, and serve the whole in a deep dish. 



116 The New Ensiaiid Cook Book 



LARKS 

These delicate little birds are in high season- in 
November. When they are thoroughly picked, 
gutted, and cleansed, truss them; do them over with 
the yolk of an egg, and then roll them in bread 
crumbs; run them on a skewer; 10 or 15 minutes will 
be sufficient time to broil them over a quick fire ; baste 
them with fresh butter, and sprinkle them with bread 
crumbs till they are well covered \nth them. Fry 
some grated bread in butter, set it to drain before 
the fire, that it may harden. Serve the crumbs in the 
dish under the larks, and garnish with slices of lemon. 

PIGEON PIE 

Chop some parsley and lemon thyme, with a few 
mushrooms; stew these in a little butter, into which 
put ^ dozen young pigeons, with pepper and salt in 
their insides, and their legs turned in ; stew them for 
a few minutes and turn them ; when they begin to 
fry, put in sufficient consomme to cover them, in which 
let them stew till they are well done ; take them from 
the fire to cool; in the meantime make a good puff 
paste, part of which roll out, and place round the 
edge of a dish; lay the pigeons in with the yolks of 
4 eggs, boiled hard, and pour over them ^ of the 
liquor they were stewed in; add a little pepper and 



Poultry and Game 117 

salt, then lay on the top paste, trimming it neatly 
round, the same as you would any other pic; on the 
top f onn a star of leaves, with a hole in the center ; 
Qgg it lightly over, and put it to bake in a moderate 
oven, taking care that it has not too much color; 
when done, add to the liquor that remained from the 
pigeons, a little butter sauce, make it very hot, and 
pour it on the pie. Serve it hot, either for a remove 
or side dish. 

PIGEONS WITH RICE 
AND PARMESAN CHEESE 

Pick and wash clean -J dozen nice pigeons, cut 
them into quarters ; brown some butter with flour, add 
to it a pint of good stock, with 3 grated onions, some 
pepper and salt; stew the pigeons in this till tender; 
take them out and mix in the juice of 1 lemon; boil 
and strain the sauce over the pigeons. Boil about 
f pound of whole rice in 1^ pints of stock, with ^ 
pound of fresh butter, some grated nutmeg and salt ; 
when it is tender, add 2 handfuls of grated Parmesan 
cheese. Put more than J of the rice equally round 
the dish in which the pigeons are placed, and cover 
them with what remains, brush it over with a well- 
beaten ^gg, and then stew it thickly with more Par- 
mesan ; cover a flat baking-tin with salt, place the dish 
upon this, and bake it for nearly f hour in a slow 
oven. It should be of a fine gold color. 



118 The New England Cook Book 



BROILED PHEASANTS 

Clean and wash carefully, wipe dry, and broil over 
live coals. When done, pour melted butter over 
them, sprinkle with salt and pepper and a little 
minced parsley ; serve on hot buttered toast with cur- 
rant jelly. 

TO DRESS PLOVERS 

Green plovers should be dressed the same as wood- 
cocks, without drawing, and served on a toast. Gray 
plovers should be stewed. Make a forcemeat with 
the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eg-gs bruised, some marrow 
cut fine, artichoke bottoms cut small, and sweet herbs, 
seasoned with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Stuff the 
birds, and put them into a saucepan, with just a suffi- 
cient quantity of good gravy to cover them, 1 glass of 
white wine, and a blade of mace ; cover them close, 
and let them stew very gently till they are tender; 
then take up the plovers, lay them in a dish, keep 
them hot; put a piece of butter rolled in flour, to 
thicken the sauce, let it boil till smooth; squeeze into 
it a little lemon ; skim it, and pour it over the plovers. 

QUAIL 

Clean and split the birds down the back, wipe dry 
and dip in hot butter and sprinkle with salt and pep- 



Poultry and Game 119 

per ; broil over a hot fire. Serve on hot toast dipped 
in melted butter that has been highly seasoned with 
salt and pepper. 

ROASTED STUFFED 
QUAIL 

Make a forcemeat of 1 cup of bread crumbs, a few 
chopped olives, some capers, two anchovies, and sea- 
soning of salt and paprika. Moisten this with 
melted butter and fill the birds. Place a few rashers 
of bacon in the pan, place the birds on the rashers ; 
add another rasher to the breast of each and bake 
in moderate oven about J hour. Serve on toast 
dipped in melted butter. 

QUAILS, ROASTED 

Truss the birds, and stuff them with beef -suet and 
sweet herbs, both shred very small, seasoned with salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg; fasten them to a spit, and put 
them to the fire ; baste with salt and water when they 
first begin to get warm ; then dredge them with flour, 
and baste with butter. Put an anchovy, 2 or 3 shal- 
lots, and the juice of a Seville orange into a little 
rich gravy; set it on the fire, shake it about, and 
when the anchovy is dissolved, serve it with the quails. 
Garaish the dish with fried bread crumbs. These 
birds are sometimes roasted, wrapped first in a slice 



120 The New England Cook Book 

of bacon, and then in a vine-leaf. They should be 
kept at a moderate distance from the fire. 

QUAILS, STEWED 

Put a little butter worked up with flour, and a 
few green onions into a stewpan ; when brown, put 
in some quails, a glass of wine, the same of stock, 
parsley, some more small onions, a bay leaf, and 2 
or 3 cloves; stew these till the quails are sufficiently 
done. Garnish your dish with cockscombs, artichoke 
bottoms, fried bread, etc. 

RABBIT, BROILED 

Take a couple of young rabbits, cut them up, and 
put them to steep for a few hours in a little oil, 
mixed with parsley, leeks, a few mushrooms, and a 
clove of garhc, all shred fine, salt and pepper; roll 
each piece of rabbit in a rasher of bacon, and put 
them, with a part of the seasoning, into pieces of 
white paper; butter the papers inside; broil upon a 
gridiron over a very slow fire, and serve hot in the 
papers. 

RABBITS, IN A 
FRICASSEE 

Take 2 fine white rabbits, and cut them in pieces, 
by cutting off the legs, shoulders, and back; blanch 



Poultry and Game 121 

them in boiling water, and skim them for 1 minute ; 
stir a few trimmings of mushrooms in a stewpan 
over the fire, with a bit of butter, till it begins to 
fry; then stir in a spoonful of flour; mix into the 
flour a little at a time, nearly a quart of good con- 
somme, which set on the fire, and when it boils put 
the rabbits in, and let them boil gently till done; 
then put them into another stewpan, and reduce the 
sauce till nearly as thick as paste ; mix in about ^ pint 
of good boiling cream, and when it becomes the thick- 
ness of bechamel sauce in general, squeeze it through 
the tammy to the rabbits ; make it very hot, shake in 
a little cream, then serve it to table. Rabbits may 
also be preserved, white or brown, in the same man- 
ner as chickens. 

RABBITS, ROASTED 

Truss them for roasting, and stuffs them with the 
liver minced raw, grated bread, and ham, butter or 
suet, and chopped parsley, seasoned with a little lemon 
thyme, grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper, and bound 
with an Oigg beaten. Sew them up, and roast them 
before a quick fire, and baste them with butter. Serve 
them with gravy, or melted butter with lemon-pickle 
in it. Two will take 1 hour to roast. They may 
may also be fricasseed or fried, cut into joints, with 
plenty of fried parsley, and served with a sauce made 
of the liver, and some parsley chopped, and mixed in 



122 The New England Cook Booh 

melted butter, with a little pepper and salt, or made 
into a pie the same as chickens. 



SQUABS, BAKED 

Clean and wipe 6 squabs. Stuff with the follow- 
ing dressing and truss with small skewers : 

To 1 cup of bread crumbs add 2 tablespoonfuls of 
finely-minced salt pork, a cup of chopped mushrooms 
moistened with a little of their liquor, and seasoned 
with ^ teaspoonful of salt and \ teaspoonful of pep- 
per; put this mixture into the birds, and roast until 
done, basting frequently with equal parts of melted 
butter and water or white wine. 

SQUABS, ROASTED 

Prepare the birds as for roast chicken. Into each 
put a little salt, a rasher of bacon, and a teaspoon- 
ful of sherry. Set in a pan and roast in a quick 
oven. Just before serving, make a gravy by adding 
J cup of currant jelly to the essence in the pan, a 
tablespoonful of butter, a grating of nutmeg, and a 
few drops of orange juice. Bring this to a boil and 
pour over the squabs. 



Poultry and Game 123 

TURKEY, HASHED 

(1) 

Cut up the remains of a roasted turkey, put it into 
a stewpan, with a glass of white wine, chopped pars- 
ley, shallots, mushrooms, truffles, salt and pepper, 2 
spoonfuls of cullis, and a litttle stock; boil | hour, 
and reduce to a thick sauce ; when ready, add a pound 
of anchovy, and a squeeze of lemon ; skim off all the 
fat from the sauce, and serve all together. 

TURKEY, HASHED 

(2) 

Stir a piece of butter rolled in flour into some 
cream, and a little veal gravy, till it boils up ; mince 
some cold roasted or boiled turkey, but not too small ; 
put it into the sauce, add grated lemon-peel, white 
pepper, pounded mace, a little mushroom catsup or 
mushroom powder; simmer it up, and serve. Oysters 
may be added. 

ROASTED TURKEY 

It may be either stuffed with sausage meat, or 
stuffing the same as for fillet of veal. As this makes 
a large addition to the size of the bird, take care 
that the heat of the fire is constantly to that part. 



124 The New England Cook Book 

as it frequently happens that the breast is not suffi- 
ciently done. A strip of paper should be put on 
the bone to prevent its scorching, while the other parts 
are roasting. Baste well, and froth it up. Serve 
with gravy in the dish, and bread sauce in a sauce- 
tureen. A few bread crumbs, and a beaten egg should 
be added to the stuffing of sausage meat. 

TURKEY, STUFFED WITH 

SAUSAGES AND 

CHESTNUTS 

Roast what quantity of chestnuts you think neces- 
sary, peel them^ and pound a part of them to make 
a farce, with the liver, chopped parsley, shallots, a 
little salt and pepper, a bit of butter, and the yolks 
of 3 raw eggs ; put this farce into the crop, and stuff 
the body with the whole chestnuts, and small sausages, 
first fried in butter till about half done; cover the 
turkey with slices of bacon, and put paper over that, 
then roast it, and serve with a chestnut cullis. 

WILD GOOSE 

Parboil a well-cleaned goose from 30 minutes to 
1 hour. Drain and stuff with chopped celery, mashed 
potato, minced fat pork well seasoned with chopped 
onion, salt and pepper and moistened with melted but- 
ter or beef stock. Sew up, truss and set in moderate 
oven. Baste frequently with equal parts hot water 



Poultry and Game 125 

and melted butter, and let roast 3 hours, or until done. 
Serve with giblet sauce. 

WOODCOCKS 

The greatest possible care should be taken, in 
picking of these birds, to handle them as little as pos- 
sible, on account of the skin being so particularly 
tender, that when broken it spoils the beauty of the 
bird. When picked, cut off the pinions at the first 
joint, press the legs close to the side, through which, 
and the body, pierce the beak of the bird ; then cross 
the feet, and lay a slice of bacon over the breast. 
Woodcocks and snipes may be dressed according to 
the same rules. 

WOODCOCK SALMIS 

Cut up the woodcock on the table, and put the 
pieces on a dish, which place on a stand, with a lamp 
under it, add pepper, salt, shred shallots, nearly a 
glass of white wine, the juice of 3 lemons, and a bit 
of butter; strew raspings over, and boil slowly for 
10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Use spirits of 
wine for your lamp. 

W^OODCOCKS IN A MINUTE 

Put a brace of woodcocks into a frying-pan, with 
some butter, shred shallots, grated nutmeg, salt, and 



126 Tlie New England Cook Book 

pepper; set the pan on a fierce fire, and fry the 
woodcocks lightly for 7 or 8 minutes; then add the 
juice of 2 lemons, J glass of white wine, and some 
raspings, and leave them on the fire till the sauce has 
boiled up once ; then serve altogether. 

WOODCOCKS IN GRAVY 

Take a pound of lean beef, cut it into pieces, and 
put it into a saucepan, with 2 quarts of water, an 
onion stuck with cloves, 2 blades of mace, and some 
whole pepper; boil all these together till reduced 
to half. Then strain it off into another saucepan ; 
draw the woodcocks, and lay the trail in a plate; 
put the woodcocks into the gravy, and let them boil 
in it for 12 minutes ; while they are boiling, mince 
the trail and liver very small ; put them into a small 
saucepan, with a little mace; add 4 or 5 spoonfuls 
of the gravy the woodcocks are boiled in ; then take 
the crumb of a stale roll, rub it fine into a dish 
placed before the fire, and put to the trail, in the 
small saucepan, ^ pint of red port, a bit of butter, 
rolled in flour, set it on the fire, and shake it round 
till the butter is melted ; then put in the bread crumbs, 
and shake the saucepan round; lay the woodcocks in 
the dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve. 



Sauces for Meats, Poultry, 
Fish and Game 

ANCHOVY SAUCE 

Pound 3 anchovies in a mortar with a little bit of 
butter; rub it through a double hair-sieve with the 
back of a wooden spoon, and stir it into almost ^ 
pint of melted butter; or stir in a tablespoonful of 
essence of anchovy. To the above, many cooks add 
lemon- juice and Cayenne. 

BEEF-GRAVY SAUCE, OR 
BROWN SAUCE 

(For Ragout, Game, Poultry, Fish, Etc.) 

Place in the stewpan a thin slice of salt pork, or 
an ounce of butter, and a middling sized onion ; on 
this lay a pound of nice, juicy beef; cover the stew- 
pan, and set it on a slow fire; when the meat be- 
gins to brown, turn it about, and let it get slightly 
browned (but take care it is not at all burned) ; then 
pour in IJ pints of boiling water; set the pan on 
fire; when it boils, carefully catch the scum, and 
then put in a crust of bread toasted brown (don't 
127 



128 The New England Cook Book 

burn it), a sprig of winter savory, or lemon thyme 
and parsley, a roll of thin-cut lemon-peel, a dozen 
berries of allspice, and a dozen of black pepper. 
Cover the stewpan close^ and let it stew very gently 
for about 2 hours, then strain it through a sieve into 
a basin. If you wish to thicken it, set a clean stew- 
pan over a slow fire, with about an ounce of butter 
in it; when it is melted, dredge to it, by degrees, as 
much flour as will dry it up, stirring them well to- 
gether; when thoroughly mixed, pour in a little gravy, 
stir it well together, and add the remainder by de- 
grees; set it over the fire, let it simmer gently for 
15 minutes longer, skim off the fat, etc., as it rises; 
when it is about as thick as cream, squeeze it through 
a fine sieve, and you will have a fine rich Brown Sauce. 



CREAM SAUCE 

(Or White Sauce) 

1 tablespoonful of butter, 
1 tablespoonful of flour, 
1 cup of water. 

Melt butter and flour together, then add water and 
let cook, stirring constantly until it thickens like 
cream. Season with ^ teaspoonful salt and ^ of pep- 
per. 



Sauces 129 

CHESTNUT SAUCE FOR 
ROAST TURKEY 

Scald a pound of good chestnuts in hot water for 
5 minutes, skin them, and stew them slowly for 2 
hours in white stock, seasoned and thickened with 
butter and flour. Cut a pound of pork sausages into 
bits about 1 inch long, dust them with flour, and fry 
them a light brown ; lay them into the dish on which 
the turkey is to be served, and pour the chestnuts 
and sauce over them. Some people prefer the fried 
sausages stewed a little with the chestnuts; but this 
method makes the sauce of a darker color. 

CURRANT SAUCE FOR 
VENISON 

Boil in water for a few minutes an ounce of nicely- 
chopped currants, add 3 tablespoonfuls of grated 
bread, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, 4 cloves, 
and a glass of Port wine ; stir it till it boils, and serve 
it hot. 

BROWN SAUCE 

Take 1 or 2 pounds of round steak, 2 or 3 pounds 
of veal, some pickings of fowl, caiTots, and onions; 
put all these into a saucepan v/ith a glass of water, 



130 The New England Cook Book 

and set it on a brisk fire; when scarcely any moisture 
remains, put it on a slow fire, that the jelly may 
take color without burning; and as soon as it is 
brown, moisten it with stock (or water), add a bunch 
of parsley and green onions, 2 bay leaves, 2 cloves, 
and some champignons, salt it well, and set it on the 
fire for 3 hours, then strain. 

DRAWN BUTTER 

Rub 2 tablespoonfuls of butter with 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, heat until boiling point, throw in 1 
tablespoonful of minced parsley and serve at once. 

EGG SAUCE 

Pound in a mortar 3 hard yolks of eggs; then 
put them into a basin, and add ^ tablespoonful of 
made mustard, and a little pepper and salt ; pour 
to it by degrees, stirring it fast all the while, about 
9, wine-glassfuls of salad oil; stir it together till it 
comes to a good thickness. 

A little tarragon or chervil minced very fine, and 
a little vinegar, may be added. 

FISH GRAVY 

Put some slices of onion into a stewpan, and set 
them on the fire ; when they are completely dissolved, 



Sauces 131 

add a piece of butter, and some small fish, or pieces 
of carp, tench, perch or any other you find con- 
venient. As soon as they begin to dissolve, and give 
out their moisture, put a glassful of root broth to 
them, and boil them for ^ hour; then add a glass of 
white wine, and a little lemon- juice, and boil it an- 
other ^ hour, when it may be passed through a sieve, 
with great force. 

GIBLET SAUCE 

Boil giblets and when done mince fine, add this to 
the gravy in the roasting-pan and thicken with 
browned flour ; when this comes to a boil, add a table- 
spoonful of Port wine, if desired. 

HORSERADISH SAUCE, TO 

EAT WITH HOT OR 

COLD MEAT 

Mix 1 teaspoonful of mustard, 1 tablespoonful 
of vinegar, and 3 of cream ; add a little salt, and 
as much finely-grated horseradish as will make the 
sauce the consistence of onion sauce. 

SAUCE FOR FISH 

A tablespoonful of anchovy juice, 1 of soy, and 
2 of mushroom catsup, mixed in \ pound of melted 
butter. 



132 The New England Cook Book 

MINT SAUCE 

(1) 

Wash and pick some green mint ; add, when minced, 
a tablespoonful of the young leaves, to 4 of vinegar, 
and put it into a sauce-tureen, with a teaspoonful of 
brown sauce. 

MINT SAUCE 

(2) 

To 1 cup of vinegar add 4 tablespoonfuls of 
chopped mint and S of sugar. Let stand some time 
before using. 

MOCK OYSTER SAUCE 

Put into a saucepan 2 or 3 chopped anchovies, J 
pint of water, a httle mace, and 1 or 2 cloves ; let 
them simmer till the anchovies be quite dissolved. 
Strain it, and when cool, add a teacupful of cream; 
thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and 
heat it up. It may be poured over boiled fowls or 
veal. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE FOR 
BOILED TURKEY OR FOWL 

Pick clean and wash a pint of small mushrooms, 
rub them with flannel, put them into a saucepan with 



Sauces 133 

a blade of mace, a little salt, grated nutmeg, a piece 
of butter rolled in flour, and 1 pint of cream; keep 
stirring them till they boil ; then pour them round the 
turkey, fowl, or chicken. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE 

Peel some mushrooms, and throw them into a little 
water and lemon- juice, to keep them w^iite. Put into 
a stewpan f of ordinary white sauce, and ^ of good 
veal stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped mush- 
rooms, and ^ tablespoonful of washed and chopped 
shallots ; let it boil till well flavored, and then serve 
it. The mushrooms should be as white as possible. 

LOBSTER SAUCE 

Choose a fine spawny hen lobster ; be sure it is 
fresh, pick out the spawn and the red coral, add to 
it ^ ounce of butter, and pound it quite smooth ; rub 
it through a hair-sieve with the back of a wooden 
spoon ; cut the meat of the lobster into small squares, 
or pull it to pieces with a fork; put the pounded 
spawn into as much melted butter as you think will 
do, and stir it together till it is thoroughly mixed; 
now put to it the meat of the lobster, and warm it on 
the fire; take care it does not boil, which will spoil 
its complexion, and its brilliant red color will imme- 
diately fade. The above is a very easy and excellent 



134 The New England Cook Book 

manner of making this sauce. Some use strong beef 
or veal gravy instead of melted butter, adding an- 
chovy, Cayenne, catsup, cavice, lemon- juice, or pickle, 
or wine, etc. 

ONION SAUCE 

Those who like the full flavor of onions only cut 
off the strings and tops (without peeling off any 
of the skins), then put them into salt and water, and 
let them lie 1 hour; then wash them, put them into 
a kettle with plenty of water, and boil them till they 
are tender ; now^ skin them, pass them through a col- 
ander, and mix a little melted butter with them. 
Some mix the pulp of apples, or turnips, with the 
onions, others add mustard to them. 

ORANGE GRAVY SAUCE 

{For Wild Ducks, Woodcocks, Snipes, 
Pigeon, Teal, Etc.) 

Set on a saucepan with -J pint of veal gravy ; add 
to it ^ dozen leaves of basil, a small onion, and a 
roll of orange or lemon-peel, and let it boil up for 
a few minutes, and strain it off. Put to the clear 
gravy the juice of an orange, or lemon, -J teaspoon- 
ful of salt, the same of pepper, and a glass of red 
wine ; send it up hot. Eschalot and Cayenne may be 



Sauces 135 

added. This is an excellent sauce for all kinds of 
wild water-fowl. 

Gravies should always be sent up in a covered boat : 
they keep hot longer; and it leaves it to the choice 
of the company to partake of them or not. 

OYSTER SAUCE 

When your oysters are opened, take care of all the 
liquor, and give them 1 boil in it. Then take the 
oysters out, and put to the liquor 3 or 4 blades of 
mace. Add to it some melted butter, and some thick 
cream or rich milk. Put in your oysters and give 
them a boil. As soon as they come to a boil, take 
them off the fire. 

PIQUANT SAUCE, FOR 
COLD MEAT, FISH, ETC. 

(1) 

Pound together 1 ounce of scraped horseradish, ^ 
ounce of salt, 1 tablespoonful of made mustard, 4 
drachms of minced eschalots, ^ drachm of celery seed, 
and I drachm of Cayenne, adding gradually 1 pint 
of bumet, or tarragon vinegar, and let it stand in 
a jar a week, and then pass it through a sieve. 



136 The New England Cook Book 

PIQUANT SAUCE 

(2) 

Put a little chopped shallot and a few spoonfuls 
of gravy into a saucepan ; let it boil till the gravy be 
nearly boiled away, but not burned to the bottom 
of the saucepan; add as much braise as may be re- 
quired for the sauce, season with pepper and salt, 
boil it a few minutes, then add a little lemon- juice, 
sugar, and a teaspoonful of garlic vinegar. 

Braise is an onion stuck with cloves, and boiled 
till tender in gravy and white wine. 

SHARP SAUCE, FOR 
VENISON 

Put into a silver, or very clean and well tinned 
saucepan, -J pint of the best white vinegar, and J 
pound of loaf sugar pounded; set it over the fire, 
and let it simmer gently; skim it carefully; pour 
it through a tamis or fine sieve, and send it up in a 
basin. 

Some people like this better than the sweet wine 
sauces. 



Sauces 137 

SAUCE FOR STEAKS, 
CHOPS OR CUTLETS 

Allow for a pound of meat 1 tablespoonful of the 
fat, or about 1 ounce of butter; add as much flour 
as will make it a paste ; rub it well together over the 
fire till they are a little brown ; then add as much 
boiling water as will reduce it to the thickness of 
good cream, and 1 tablespoonful of mushroom or 
walnut catsup, or pickle, or browning; let it boil 
together a few minutes, and pour it through a sieve 
to the steaks, etc. 

To the above is sometimes added a sliced onion, or 
a minced eschalot, with a tablespoonful of Port wine, 
or a little eschalot wine. Garnish with finely-scraped 
horseradish or pickled walnuts, gherkins, etc. Some 
beef-eaters like chopped eschalots in one saucer and 
horseradish grated in vinegar In another. Broiled 
mushrooms are favorite relishes to beefsteaks. 

SUPERLATIVE SAUCE 

(1) 

Claret, or Port wine, and mushroom catsup, a 
pint of each. Half a pint of walnut or other pickle 
liquor. Pounded anchovies, 4 ounces. Fresh lemon- 
peel, pared very thin, an ounce. Peeled and sliced 
eschalots, the same. Scraped horseradish, ditto ; 



138 The New England Cook Book 

allspice, and black pepper powdered, ^ ounce each; 
Cayenne, 1 drachm, or curry powder, 3 drachms ; 
celery seed bruised, 1 drachm. 

Under an infinity of circumstances, a cook may be 
in want of the substances necessary to make sauce: 
the above composition of the several articles from 
w^hich the various gravies derive their flavor, will be 
found a very admirable extemporaneous substitute. 
By mixing a large tablespoonf ul with ^ pint of thick- 
ened melted butter, or broth, 5 minutes, will finish a 
boat of very relishing sauce, nearly equal to drawn 
gravy. 

SUPERLATIVE SAUCE 

To make a boat of sauce for poultry, etc., put a 
piece of butter about as big as an egg into a stew- 
pan, set it on the fire; when it is melted, put to it 
a tablespoonf ul of flour; stir it thoroughly together, 
and add to it 2 tablespoonfuls of sauce, and by de- 
grees about ^ pint of broth, or boiling water; let it 
simmer gently over a slow fire for a few minutes; 
skim it and strain it through a sieve, and it is ready. 

TARTARE SAUCE 

(1) 

Add to 1 cup of well-seasoned Mayonnaise 1 tea- 
spoonful of tarragon vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of 



Sauces 139 

finely-chopped capers, and 1 small finely-chopped 
boiled onion. 

TARTARE SAUCE 

(2) 

Add to a cup of mayonnaise 2 tablespoonfuls each 
of chopped pickles, capers and olives, and 1 table- 
spoonful of minced parsley. Keep on ice in covered 
receptacle until needed. 

TRUFFLE SAUCE 

Mince 2 or 3 truffles very small, and toss them up 
lightly, in either oil or butter, according to your 
taste; then put to them 4 or 5 ladlefuls of v^loute 
and a spoonful of consomme; let it boil for about 
i hour over a gentle fire, skim off all the fat; keep 
your sauce hot in the bainmarie. 

WHITE SAUCE FOR FISH 

Four anchovies chopped, 2 glasses of white wine, 
a large one of vinegar, an onion stuck with 3 cloves, 
and cut into quarters ; let all these simmer till the 
anchovies dissolve ; strain it and add ^ pound of but- 
ter kneaded in a tablespoonful of flour. When it 
has melted, stir in gradually, one way, ^ pint of 
cream, taking care that it does not boil. When thor- 
oughly heated, serve in a sauce-tureen. 



140 The New England Cook Book 
WHITE ONION SAUCE 

The following is a mild and delicate preparation: 
Take ^ dozen of the largest and whitest onions (the 
Spanish are the mildest, but these can only be had 
from August to December) ; peel them and cut them 
in half, and lay them in a pan of cold water for J 
hour, and then boil for J hour ; and then if you wish 
them to taste very mild, pour off that water, and 
cover them with fresh boiling water, and let them 
boil till they are tender, which will sometimes take J 
hour longer. 

WHITE SAUCE, FOR 
FOWLS OR TURKEY 

Put on, in a quart of water, the necks of fowls, 
a piece of the scrag-end of a neck of mutton, 2 
blades of mace, 12 peppercorns, 1 anchovy, a small 
head of celery, a slice from off the end of a lemon, 
and a bunch of sweet herbs ; cover it closely, and let 
it boil till reduced to nearly ^ pint; strain, and put 
to it 5 pound of butter dredged with flour; let it 
boil for 5 minutes, and then add S spoonfuls of 
pickled mushrooms. Mix with a teacupful of cream, 
the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs, and some grated nut- 
meg; stir this in gradually, and shake the pan over 
the fire till it is all quite hot, but do not allow it to 
boil. 



Sauces 141 

WINE SAUCE FOR 
VENISON OR HARE 

A quarter of a pint of claret or Port wine, the 
same quantity of plain, unflavored mutton gravy, and 
a tablespoonful of currant jelly. Let it just boil 
up, and send it to table in a sauce-boat. 



Salads 
ASPARAGUS SALAD 

Place cold, boiled asparagus on a bed of lettuce, 
serve with French dressing or Sauterne dressing. 

BERKSHIRE SALAD 

Marinate with French dressing 1 cupful of pecan 
nuts, a few capers, some sliced olives, and 2 cups of 
cold boiled rice. Arrange on bed of lettuce and gar- 
nish with mayonnaise. 

BOSTON SALAD 

Place 2 tablespoonfuls of endive in a salad bowl, 
add 2 sliced cucumbers, 1 shredded green pepper, and 
■J cup of chopped filberts; add highly-seasoned 
French dressing and garnish bowl with cress. 

CAULIFLOWER SALAD 

Separate the bouquets from the stalk and cook in 
1 quart of water and 1 pint of thin milk, into which 
has been put 1 teaspoonful of salt. Boil until ten- 
der, drain and chill. Serve on lettuce with Curry 
Dressing. 

142 



Salads 143 



CHICKEN SALAD 

2 large cold fowls, either boiled or roasted, 

The yolks of 9 hard-boiled eggs, 

^ pint of sweet oil, 

^ pint of vinegar, 

1 gill of mixed mustard, 

1 small teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper, 

1 small teaspoonful of salt, 

2 large heads, or 4 small ones, of fine cel- 

ery. 

Cut the meat of the fowls from the bones, in pieces 
not exceeding an inch in size. 

Cut the white part of the celery into pieces about 
an inch long. Mix the chicken and celery well to- 
gether. Cover them and set them away. 

With the back of a wooden spoon, mash the yolks 
of eggs till they are a perfectly smooth paste. Mix 
them with the oil, vinegar, mustard, Cayenne, and 
salt. Stir them for a long time, till they are thor- 
oughly mixed and quite smooth. The longer they 
are stirred the better. When this dressing is suffi- 
ciently mixed, cover it, and set it away. 

Five minutes before the salad is to be eaten pour 
the dressing over the chicken and celery, and mix all 
well together. If the dressing is put on long be- 
fore it is wanted, the salad will be tough and hard. 



144 The New England Cook Book 

This salad is very excellent made of cold turkey 
instead of chicken. 



CORN SALAD 

Add equal parts of fresh boiled corn cut from the 
cob and cold boiled rice. Cool, and season with a 
little salt. Fold in equal quantity of Tartare Sauce, 
and serve ice cold in lettuce cups. 

CRAB SALAD 

Shred 2 heads of lettuce and a bunch of celery 
and put into a bowl. Mash the hard-boiled yolks of 
6 eggs to a fine paste with salad oil; rub in a large 
teaspoon of dry mustard. Beat the yolks and whites 
of 2 raw eggs separately and stir into the hard- 
boiled yolks ; then thin the mixture with vinegar or 
lemon-juice. Beat up well; season to taste with salt 
and Cayenne. Add a can of deviled crab meat to 
the dressing and turn over the bed of lettuce. 

FRUIT SALAD 

12 oranges, 

1 pineapple, 

> IJ pounds of malaga grapes, 

9 bananas, 

1| cups of ma3^onnaise, 



Salads 145 

1^ cups of whipped cream, 

1 head of curly lettuce. 
Cut oranges, seed and skin grapes and shred the 
pineapple, sprinkle this with ^ cup of sugar. Let 
stand in refrigerator until just before it is desired 
to serve, then cut up the bananas and arrange salad 
on lettuce and cover with the mayonnaise, which has 
been mixed with the whipped cream. This will serve 

HERRING SALAD 

Scald boneless salt herring. Dry and chill them. 
Shred and add equal quantity diced cold boiled pota- 
toes. Sprinkle with a little Cayenne and moisten lib- 
erally with French dressing. 

LENOX SALAD 

Marinate with French dressing equal quantities of 
stoned white grapes and blanched English walnuts. 
Serve on cress or lettuce with cream cheese balls, 
into which has been worked a little salt and a sprink- 
ling of paprika. 

LOBSTER SALAD 

Take two large boiled lobsters. Extract all the 
meat from the shell, and cut it up into very small 
pieces. 



146 The New England Cook Booh 

For lobster salad, you must have lettuce instead of 
celery. Cut up the lettuce as small as possible. 

Make a dressing as for a chicken salad, with the 
yolks of 9 hard-boiled eggs, 4 pint of sweet oil, ^ 
pint of vinegar, ^ gill of mustard, 1 teaspoonful of 
Cayenne, and 1 teaspoonful of salt. Mix all well 
together with a wooden spoon. 

A few minutes before it is to be eaten, pour the 
dressing over the lobster and lettuce, and mix it very 
well. 

MAINE SALAD 

Add equal quantities of cold, flaked white fish and 
sliced cold potatoes, sprinkle lightly with salt and 
pepper and pour over a French dressing. Chill on 
the ice, garnish with cowslip greens or lettuce, cold 
cooked beets, and pvmolas. 

SHAKER SALAD 

Quarter pears and remove the skin and core. 
Place on lettuce leaves and add equal quantity of 
stoned white grapes. Chill and serve with French 
dressing. 

SHRIMP SALAD 

Drain and mix well 2 cans or 1 pint of fresh 
shrimps. Add 2 cans or 1 quart of fresh cooked 



Salads 147 

peas. Marinate in French dressing 1 hour, line dish 
with lettuce leaves, add peas and shrimps, dress with 
mayonnaise and hard-boiled eggs and serve very 
cold. 

SPINAGE SALAD 

Mince boiled spinage, place in individual molds and 
chill. Remove from molds, arrange on lettuce, add 
a slice of hard-boiled ^gg, spread with caviare and 
serv^e with chive dressing. 

STUFFED TOMATO SALAD 

Choose firm ripe tomatoes. Cut off a piece from 
the top and remove the seed. Stuff with chopped cu- 
cumber, gi'een pepper and minced onion thoroughly 
mixed with mayonnaise. Chill on ice and serve on 
delicate lettuce leaves. 

TOMATO AND GREEN 
PEPPER SALAD 

Cut 4 long green peppers lengthwise, removing all 
the white membrane and seed from the interiors. 
Pour over them boiling water, and set aside until 
the water is cool, then drain and throw into cold 
water until chilled. Cut into dice of uniform size 
and lay in iced water. Peel and cut into quarters 6 



148 The New England Cook Book 

ripe tomatoes. Lay these in the ice until cold, then 
aiTange on a dish covered with lettuce. 

VEGETABLE SALAD 

One cup of cold, cooked carrots that have been 
diced, 4 small tomatoes cut in quarters, 6 sliced rad- 
ishes, and 1 cup of cooked new green peas. Dress 
liberally with French dressing, serve on romaine. 



Salad Dressings 

DRESSING FOR COLD 
SLAW 

Rub 2 tablespoonfuls of butter with 1 tablespoon- 
ful of flour, add 1 beaten egg, let cook until well 
blended, then add ^ cupful of hot vinegar, | tea- 
spoonful pepper and the same of dry mustard. 
Bring this to a boil, stirring all the while, set aside 
to cool and when ready to use add 1 teacupful of 
sour cream. 

CHIVE DRESSING 

To 6 tablespoonfuls of olive oil add S teaspoon- 
fuls of chopped chives, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon- 
juice, ^ teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful of pepper, 
and ^ teaspoonful of French mustard. Mix thor- 
oughly and serve. 

CURRY DRESSING 

1 teaspoonful of curry powder, 
^ teaspoonful French mustard, 
^ teaspoonful English mustard, 
149 



150 The New England Cook Book 

Dash of Cayenne and a generous sprin- 
kling of white pepper, 

Add a teaspoonful each of chopped chives, 
parsley, 

^ teaspoonful of onion juice, 

J of a lemon rind and all chopped fine. 

Mix thoroughly with half a cup white wine vine- 
gar, add 2 cups of olive oil and 1 of white wine 
vinegar. 

Place in covered jar and keep on ice to be used 
as needed. 



FRENCH DRESSING 

To 6 tablespoonfuls of olive oil, add slowly drop 
by drop 2 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, season with 1 
teaspoonful of salt, ^ teaspoonful of pepper and a 
dash of Cayenne. 



MAYONNAISE DRESSING 

The success of mayonnaise largely depends upon 
having the ingredients thoroughly chilled. 

To the yolk of 1 raw egg slightly beaten, add a 
pinch of salt and gi'adually drop by drop 1 cup of 
olive oil, as it begins to get too thick, thin slightly 
with a few drops of lenwn- juice. When blended sea- 
son with 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful 



Salad Dressings 151 

of lemon- juice, \ teaspoonful of salt, a dash of red 
pepper, and \ teaspoonful of dry mustard. 

MAYONNAISE 

(2) 

To the yolks of 3 raw eggs add drop by drop 9, 
cups of olive oil. The secret of thickening is to beat 
it gradually. When blended add 1 teaspoonful of 
dry mustard, 1^ teaspoonfuls of salt, 1 large table- 
spoonful of tarragon vinegar and 2 tablespoonfuls of 
cider vinegar. 

SALAD DRESSING 

1 teaspoonful dry mustard, 
1 teaspoonful salt, 
S teaspoonfuls sugar, 
Small tablespoonful flour. 

Mix dry ingredients together, beat up 2 eggs, 
and add to above, J of vinegar and small cup of boil- 
ing water. Add this to the above. 

Have heated in double boiler 3 tablespoonfuls of 
olive oil. After this is hot, add the other ingredients 
and cook until the consistency of cream. 



152 The New England Cook Book 



SAUTERNE DRESSING 

To 3 tablespoonfuls of oil add 1 of sauteme, sea- 
son with i teaspoonful of salt and J of Cayenne. 
Mix thoroughly and chill before serving. 



Desserts, Puddings, Pies and 
Tarts 

APPLE CUSTARD 

Take ^ dozen very tart apples, and take off the 
skin and cores. Cook them till they begin to be soft, 
in ^ teacup of water. Then put them in a pudding- 
dish, and sugar them. Then beat 8 eggs with 4 
spoonfuls of sugar, mix it with 3 pints of milk ; pour 
it over the apples, and bake for about ^ hour. 

BOILED APPLE PUDDING 

^ pound of butter, 

1 pound of flour, 

2 dozen apples. 

Make a plain paste of the flour and butter. 
Sprinkle your pudding-bag with flour, roll the paste 
thin, and lay inside the bag, and fill the crust with 
apples nicely pared and cored. Draw the crust to- 
gether, and cut off* any extra paste about the folds ; 
tie the bag tight, and put it into boiling water. 
Boil it 2 hours. A layer of rice, nicely picked and 
washed, sprinkled inside the bag, instead of crust, 

153 



154 The New England Cook Book 

makes a very good pudding, called an Avalanche, 
Common dough rolled out makes a fine crust for 
tlie above, especially with a little butter worked in 
it. It is more healthful than the unleavened crust. 



APPLE SAUCE 

Pare, core, and slice some apples ; boil them in 
water, with a bit of lemon-peel; when tender, mash 
them ; add to them a bit of butter the size of a wal- 
nut, and some brown sugar. Heat, and serve in a 
sauce-tureen. 

CUSTARD 

Boil 6 peach leaves, or a lemon-peel, in 1 quart 
of milk, till it is flavored; cool it, add 3 tablespoon- 
f uls of sugar, and 5 eggs beaten to a froth. Put the 
custard into a double boiler, and stir it till cooked 
enough. Then turn it into cups, or, if preferred, it 
can be baked. 

BERRY PUDDING 

To 1 quart of washed whortleberries, put 1 pint 
of flour in which you have put a small teaspoonful 
of salt. Add a very little water. That which is 
upon the berries will be nearly enough. Boil it 9, 
hours in a cloth tied close, allowing no room to swell. 
To be eaten with melted sauce. 



Desserts 155 

BERRY PUDDING 

(2) 

A pint of berries, 1 pint of flour, 1 pint of sour 
milk, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and 1 of saleratus. Boil 
it 2 hours. All boiled fruit puddings should be 
turned often in the pot, to prevent the fruit from 
settling on one side. Make a sweet sauce. 

BAKED INDIAN PUDDING 

Two quarts of milk, 1 large teacup of meal, ^ 
teacup of white flour, 2 eggs, ^ cup of molasses, 1 
large teaspoonful of salt, J teaspoonful of ginger, 
and the same of cinnamon. 

To mix it, boil 3 pints of the milk and set it off 
from the fire. Have ready, beaten together, all the 
other ingredients in part of the remaining pint of 
milk. Stir them into the hot milk. Grease a stone 
pan, shaped like a common gallon pan of potter's 
ware. Let the mixture cool a little before putting 
it into the pan. Bake it in a moderate heat. When 
the top begins to brown, pour a little of the cold 
milk over it, and cover it with a plate. Bake from 
4 to 5 hours. Put cold milk on the top 2 or 3 
times while it is baking. If most convenient, a lit- 
tle finely-chopped suet can be substituted for the 
eggs. 



156 The New England Cook Book 

BAKED INDIAN PUDDING 

(with Sweet Apples) 

Pare \% sweet apples and slice them, or take out 
the core with a tap-borer. Stir up a pudding of a 
quart of milk, and almost a quart of Indian meal; 
the measure may be filled quite full by using 1 or 
2 spoonfuls of wheat flour. Add some salt, a tea- 
cup of molasses, and a little chopped suet. The 
milk should be boiled, and after it is taken from the 
fire, the meal and other ingredients stirred in. Then 
pour the whole over the apples. Bake 3 hours. 

BOILED INDIAN PUDDING 

3 pints of milk, 

10 heaping tablespoonfuls of sifted In- 
dian meal, 
^ pint of molasses, 
2 eggs. 

Scald the meal with the milk, add the molasses, 
and a teaspoonful of salt. Put in the eggs when it 
is cool enough not to scald them. Put in a table- 
spoonful of ginger. Tie the bag so that it will 
be about | full of the pudding, in order to give room 
to swell. The longer it is boiled the better. Some 
like a little chopped suet with the above. 



Desserts 157 



BOSTON PUDDING 

Make a good common paste with H pounds of 
flour, and f pound of butter, or f pound of beef- 
suet, chopped very fine. Mix the suet at once with 
the flour, knead it with cold water into a stiff dough, 
and then roll it out into a large thin sheet. Fold 
it up and roll it again. When you roll it out the 
last time, cut off the edges, till you get the sheet of 
paste of an even square shape. 

Have ready some fruit sweetened to your taste. 
If cranberries, gooseberries, dried peaches, or dam- 
sons, they should be stewed, and made very sweet. 
If apples, they should be stewed in a very little 
water, drained, and seasoned with nutmeg, rose-water 
and lemon. If currants, raspberries, or blackber- 
ries, they should be mashed with sugar, and put into 
the pudding raw. 

Spread the fruit very thick, all over the sheet of 
paste (which must not be rolled out too thin). 
When it is covered all over with the fruit, roll it up, 
and close the dough at both ends, and down the last 
side. Tie the pudding in a cloth and boil it. 

Eat it with sugar. It must not be taken out of 
the pot till just before it is brought to table. 



158 The New England Cook Book 



COCOANUT PUDDING 

^ pound of cocoanut, grated, 

i pound of powdered white sugar, 

3^ ounces of fresh butter, 

The whites only of 6 eggs, 

1 tablespoonful of wine and brandy 

mixed, 
i teaspoonful of rose-water. 

Break up a cocoanut, and take the thin brown 
skin carefully off, with a knife. Wash all the pieces 
in cold water, and then wipe them dry, with a clean 
towel. Weigh | pound of cocoanut, and grate it 
very fine, into a soup-plate. 

Stir the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the 
liquor and rose-water gradually to them. 

Beat the whites only, of 6 eggs, till they stand 
alone on the rods ; and then stir the beaten white 
of egg, gradually, into the butter and sugar. 
Afterwards, sprinkle in, by degrees, the grated co- 
coanut, stirring hard all the time. Then stir all very 
well at the last. 

Have ready a puff paste, sufficient to cover the 
bottom, sides, and edges of a soup-plate. Put in 
the mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven, about 
•J hour. 

Grate loaf sugar over it, when cool. 



Desserts 159 



FLOATING ISLAND 

Boil, with a pint of milk, a bit of cinnamon, and 
half the peel of a lemon; when almost cold, strain 
it, and mix with it the beaten white of 1, and the 
yolks of 3 eggs ; stir it over the fire till thick, pour 
it into a dish, and stir it now and then till cold. 
Whisk the whites of 2 eggs, and ^ pint of guava, 
quince, or red currant jelly, till it be very stiff. 

FRUIT SUET PUDDING 

Of finely-minced suet, flour, grated bread, and 
cleaned currants, J pound each ; 1 teaspoonful of 
pounded ginger, 1 of salt, 2 ounces of brown sugar, 
and 1 teacupf ul of milk ; mix all the ingredients well 
together, and boil it in a cloth for 2 hours. Serve 
it with a sweet sauce. 

MUSH, OR HASTY 
PUDDING 

Wet up the Indian meal in cold water, till there 
are no lumps, stir it gradually into boiling water 
which has been salted, till so thick that the stick will 
stand in it. Boil slowly, and so as not to bum, 
stirring often. Two or 3 hours' boiling is needed. 
Pour it into a broad, deep dish, let it grow cold, 



160 The New England Cook Book 

cut it into slices -J inch thick, flour them, and fry 
them on a griddle with a little lard, or bake them 
in a stove oven. 

ORANGE PUDDING 

1 large orange, of a deep color, and 

smooth thin rind, 
1 lime, 

^ pound of powdered white sugar, 
^ pound of fresh butter, 
3 eggs, 

1 tablespoonful of mixed wine and brandy, 
1 teaspoonful of rose-water. 

Grate the yellow rind of the orange and lime, and 
squeeze the juice into a saucer or soup-plate, taking 
out all the seeds. 

Stir the butter and sugar to a cream. 

Beat the eggs as light as possible, and then stir 
them by degrees into the pan of butter and sugar. 
Add, gradually, the liquor and rose-water, and then 
by degrees, the orange and lime. Stir all well to- 
gether. 

Have ready a sheet of puff^ paste made of 5 ounces 
of sifted flour, and J pound of fresh butter. Lay 
the paste in a buttered soup-plate. Trim and notch 
the edges, and then put in the mixture. Bake it 
about I hour, in a moderate oven. Grate loaf sugar 
over it, before you send it to table. 



Desserts 161 



RAILROAD PUDDING 

One cup of molasses, 1 of sweet milk, 1 of suet 
or of salt pork chopped fine ; 4 cups of flour, 1 tea- 
spoonful of saleratus, and if suet is used, 1 of salt, 
1 cup of chopped raisins, 1 of currants. Warm the 
molasses and stir the saleratus into it; mix the suet 
or pork with the flour, then stir all together, and 
steam it 4 hours, according to the directions for 
Brown Bread No. 2. Make a melted sauce, or the 
sour cream sauce. 

RICE PUDDING 

Wash a small cofl^ee-cup of rice and put it into 
3 pints of milk over night. In the morning add 
a piece of butter ^ as large as an ^gg, a teacup 
of sugar, a little salt, cinnamon, or nutmeg. Bake 
very slowly 2J hours in the oven. After it has be- 
come hot enough to melt the butter, but not to brown 
the top, stir it (without moving the dish, if you 
can) from the bottom. If raisins are to be used, 
put them in now. They add much to the richness 
of the pudding. It is a very good pudding for so 
plain a kind, and is very little trouble. For a Sun- 
day dinner, where a cooking stove is used, it is very 
convenient, as it employs but a few minutes to pre- 
pare it in the morning. 



162 The New England Cook Book 



BOILED PLUM PUDDING 

Put to a quart of boiled milk, 12 pounded crackers, 
\ pound of suet, 1 pound of currants, ^ pound of 
raisins, a little salt, and a teacup of molasses. 
Steam in a pudding-pan, or boil it 3J hours in a 
cloth or buttered bowl. To be eaten with sauce. 

SAGO PUDDING 

Wash 6 tablespoonfuls of pearl sago and put it 
to soak in a large pint of warm water. Pare 6 
good-sized, mellow, sour apples, and remove the 
cores. Wash them, butter a deep pudding-dish, and 
lay them in, with the open end up. Measure a tea- 
cup of sugar, fill the holes with it, and then grate -| 
nutmeg over the apples. Dissolve a little salt and 
the rest of the sugar, in the water with the sago ; 
pour f of the mixture over the apples, and set the 
dish in the oven or stove. After 1 hour take it out, 
and press the apples down gently without breaking 
them. See that none of the sago lies above the 
water. Return the dish to the oven and bake it an- 
other hour. It is to be eaten with sugar and milk, or 
cream, and is a very delicate and healthful pudding. 

SALEM PUDDING 

Three coffee-cups of flour, 1 of milk, 1 of chopped 
raisins, 1 of suet or salt pork chopped very fine, f 



Desserts 163 

cup of molasses, a small teaspoonful of powdered 
cloves, ^ nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of saleratus, and if 
suet is used instead of pork, a little salt. Warm 
the molasses and dissolve the saleratus in it, mix 
the suet, flour, and raisins, then put all the in- 
gredients together. Boil or steam it 4 hours. Make 
a melted sauce. 



SWEET POTATO PUDDING 

^ pound of boiled sweet potato, 
3 eggs, 

^ pound of powdered white sugar, 
^ pound of fresh butter, 
1 glass of mixed wine and brandy, 
^ glass of rose-water, 

1 teaspoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, 
mace and cinnamon. 

Pound the spice, allowing a smaller proportion of 
mace than of nutmeg and cinnamon. 

Boil and peal some sweet potatoes, and when they 
are cold, weigh ^ pound. Mash the sweet potato very 
smooth, and rub it through a sieve. Stir the sugar 
and butter to a cream. 

Beat the eggs very light, and stir them into the 
butter and sugar, alternately with the sweet potato. 
Add by degrees the liquor, rose-water and spice. 
Stir all very hard together. 



164 The New England Cook Book 

Spread puff paste on a soup-plate. Put in the 
mixture, and bake it about ^ hour in a moderate 
oven. 

Grate sugar over it. 

SUET PUDDING 

A pint of suet chopped very fine, 1 pint of chopped 
apples, 2 gills of milk, 1 gill of molasses, 1 large 
teaspoonful of salt, and flour enough to make it 
rather stiff. Boil it 4 hours. This should be boiled 
in a close tin pail or pudding-pan, in a kettle of 
water. 

Such a pudding as this is too hearty to be eaten 
after meat, and is substantial enough to constitute 
a dinner. 

PLAIN PASTE 

One pie. 

IJ cupfuls of flour, 
■J teaspoonful of salt, 

1 tablespoonful of butter, 

2 tablespoonfuls cottolene or lard. 
Ice cold water. 

Have things as cold as possible. With a knife 
chop the shortening into the sifted flour and salt un- 
til the pieces are about as large as a bean. Make a 



Desserts 165 

well in the center, add the water slowly, mixing with 
knife until all the flour is moistened, and a dry 
crumbly paste is obtained. Turn it out upon the 
board and press into shape with the hands, after 
which flatten it by pounding lightly with rolling 
pin. Fold the ends to the center, turn and continue 
the pounding until the paste is smooth, after which 
set aside in a very cold place until ready to use. 
Divide and roll each piece into a thin sheet. Fit it 
loosely into the pie tin, pressing out all air, trim 
the edge by holding the handle of the knife under 
the pan ; put the filling into it and moisten edge with 
water before putting on the cover. 

TART PASTE, FOR 
FAMILY PIES 

Rub in with the hand ^ pound of butter into Ij 
pounds of flour, mix it with ^ pint of water, and 
knead it well. 

APPLE TART, CREAMED 

Use green codlings, in preference to any other 
apple, and proceed as in the last recipe. When the 
pie is done, cut out the whole of the center, leaving 
the edges ; when cold, pour on the apple some rich 
boiled custard, and place round it some small leaves 
of puff* paste of a light color. 



166 The New England Cook Book 



CHERRY TART 

The cherries may be stoned, and a few red cur- 
rants added; sweeten it with loaf or brown sugar, 
and put into the bottom of the dish a small tea- 
cup; cover it with paste. 

CRANBERRY TART 

Take cranberries, pick and wash them in several 
waters, put them into a dish, with the juice of -J 
lemon, ^ pound of moist or pounded loaf sugar, to 
a quart of cranberries. Cover it with puff or tart 
paste and bake it f hour. If tart paste is used, draw 
it from the oven 5 minutes before it is done, and 
ice it, return it to the oven, and send it to table cold. 

CURRANT TART 

To a quart of red currants add 1 pint of red rasp- 
berries, strawberries, or cherries ; sweeten them well 
with brown sugar; before putting in the fruit, line 
the side of the dish with tart paste, place it in a small 
teacup, put in the fruit, and cover it with paste. 

Four ounces of brown sugar are generally allowed 
to a quart of fruit. 



Desserts 167 



TARTLETS 

Butter some small tartlet pans ; line them with a 
nice thin pufF paste, mark it neatly round the edges, 
bake them ; when they are cold, fill them with custard, 
preserve, or any sweetmeat you think proper, and if 
you choose, pour custard over. 

TART OF PRESERVED 
FRUIT 

(1) 

Cover a flat dish, or tourte pan, with tart paste, 
about ^ inch thick ; roll out puff^ paste, J inch thick, 
and cut it out in strips 1 inch wide; wet the tart 
paste, and lay it neatly round the pan by way of a 
rim; fill the center with jam or marmalade of any 
kind, ornament it with small leaves of puff paste, 
bake it ^ hour, and send it to table cold. 

The above may be filled before the puff paste is 
laid on, neatly strung with paste, and the rim put 
over after. 

The most general way of sending tourtes to table, 
is with a croquant of paste, or a caramel of spun 
sugar put over after it is baked. 



168 The New England Cook Book 

iTART OF PRESERVED 
FRUIT 

(g) 

Rub over with a little butter an oval dish, or tin 
shape, line it with paste, and fill it with any sort of 
preserved fruit. Roll out a bit of paste thin, and, 
with a paste cutter, cut it into narrow strips; brush 
with water the rim of the shape, and lay the bars of 
paste across and across, and then put round a border 
of paste, and mark it with the paste cutter. 

TARTS OF RIPE FRUIT 

Gooseberries, damsons, morello cherries, currants 
mixed with raspberries, plums, green gages, white 
plums, etc., should be picked quite fresh, and washed. 
Lay them in the dish with the center highest, and 
about J pound of moist or loaf sugar pounded to 
a quart of fruit (but if quite ripe they will not re- 
quire so much) ; add a little water ; rub the edges 
of the dish with yolk of egg ; cover it with tart paste 
about ^ inch thick ; press your thumb round the rim, 
and close it well; pare it round with a knife; make 
a hole in the sides below the rim; bake it in a mod- 
erate-heated oven; and 10 minutes before it is done, 
take it out and ice it, and retura it to the oven to 
dry. 



Desserts 169 



RHUBARB TART 

Strip off the peel, and if the rhubarb is large, cut 
it into 2 or 3 strips, and then into bits about an inch 
long; sweeten well with brown sugar, and cover the 
dish with paste. 

MINCE MEAT 

IJ pound of lean beef cooked and chopped 

fine, 
^ pound of chopped suet, sprinkle with 

1 teaspoonful salt, 
1 pound of seed raisins, 

1 pound of currants, 
^ pound citron, 

The grated juice and rind of 1 lemon and 

1 orange, 
S pounds of chopped apples, 

2 pounds of sugar, 
^ grated nutmeg, 

^ tablespoonful each of cinnamon, clove 
and allspice. 

Add enough cider to thoroughly moisten. Keep 
in jar in cool place. Just before using add a tea- 
spoonful of brandy to sufficient quantity of mince- 
meat for each pie. 



170 The New England Cook Book 
TRIFLE 

Mix 3 tablespoonfuls of white wine, and 1 of su- 
gar, with 1^ pints of thick cream; whisk it, and 
take off as much froth as will heap upon the dish, 
into which lay some pieces of sponge cake, or some 
sponge biscuit, soaked with sweet wine, and covered 
with preserved strawberries, or any other fruit; pile 
the froth upon this, and pour the remainder of the 
cream into the bottom of the dish ; garnish with flow- 
ers. 

WHIM WHAM 

Sweeten a quart of cream, and mix with it a tea- 
cupful of white wine, and the grated peel of a lemon ; 
whisk it to a froth, which drain upon the back of a 
sieve, and put part into a deep glass dish; cut some 
macaroon biscuits as thin as possible, and put a 
layer lightly over the froth, and one of red currant 
jelly, then a layer of the froth, and one of the bis- 
cuit and jelly; finish with the froth, and pour the 
remainder of the cream into the dish, and garnish 
with citron and candied orange-peel cut into straws. 



Sauces for Puddings and 
Other Desserts 

LEMON SAUCE 

Pare a lemon, and cut it into slices twice as thick 
as a half-crown piece ; divide these into dice, and put 
them into ^ pint of melted butter. Some cooks mince 
a bit of the lemon-peel (pared very thin) very fine, 
and add it to the above. 

PUDDING SAUCE 

Mix with ^ pint of melted butter 2 wine-glasses of 
sherry, and a tablespoonful of pounded loaf sugar; 
make it quite hot, and serve in a sauce-tureen, with 
grated nutmeg on the top. 

HARD SAUCE 

Blend ^ cup of well-beaten butter with 1 cup of 
fine sugar, beat until creamy. Flavor with a few 
drops of vanilla, beat again. Place in dish, sprinkle 
with a grating of nutmeg and keep in cool place un- 
til ready to serve. 

171 



172 The New England Cook Book 
BRANDY SAUCE 

Prepare a hard sauce and add 1 gill of brandy and 
^ cupful of boiling water, while stirring constantly. 

PINEAPPLE SAUCE 

Add to hard sauce 1 cupful of grated pineapple. 

STRAWBERRY SAUCE 

Add to hard sauce 1 cupful of crushed strawber- 
ries, or ^ cup of preserved strawberry juice. 

ICING FOR FRUIT TARTS, 
PUFFS, OR PASTRY 

Beat up in | pint mug the white of 2 eggs to a 
solid froth; lay some on the middle of the pie with 
a paste brush; sift over plenty of pounded sugar, 
and press it down with the hand, wash out the brush, 
and splash by degrees with water till the sugar is 
dissolved, and put it in the oven for 10 minutes, and 
serve it up cold. 



Frozen Desserts, Ice Creams 
and Sherbets 

ICE CREAMS 

Directions for freezing: 

After scalding the can, cool it and place it in posi- 
tion in the bucket, turn the crank to be sure it is 
fitted perfectly. Then pack the space between the 
can and bucket with a mixture of finely-chopped ice 
and coarse salt, in the proportion of ^ salt to f ice. 
When packed even with the top of the can, open and 
pour in the mixture to be frozen, cover and let stand 
10 or 15 minutes, then turn the crank as long as 
possible, after which remove the dasher, press the 
cream down into the can. Cover with a piece of 
paper, then the can cover, closing the opening at the 
top, repack with salt and ice, and let stand 2 hours 
to ripen. Do not pour off the water as soon as the 
ice melts, only when it rises to the top of the can. 

VANILLA CREAM 

1 quart of cream, 
1 pint of milk, 

173 



174 The New England Cook Book 

1 cup of sugar (finely granulated), 
1 tablespoonful of vanilla. 

Add the sugar to the scalded milk and cream, cool, 
flavor and freeze. Equal to ^ gallon. 

CHOCOLATE 

Allow 1 ounce for each pint of liquid, slowly add 
the scalded cream to the melted chocolate. 

STRAWBERRY 

1 pint of crushed strawberries, 
1 quart of cream, 
1 pint of milk. 

In addition to the 1 cup of sugar, you must add 
sufficient sugar to sweeten the berries, usually 1 cup 
extra. 

ORANGE WATER ICE 

1 quart water, 

2 cups sugar. 

Juice of 1 dozen oranges. 

Boil the water, sugar, and rind of 2 oranges 5 min- 
utes. Cool and add juice of the oranges, strain 
through muslin and freeze. 



Frozen Desserts 175 



COFFEE JELLY 

^ package gelatine, 

^ cup cold water, 

1§ cups boiling water, 

■J cup sugar, 

2 cups strong filtered coffee. 

Soak the gelatine in the cold water until soft. 
Add the boiling water, sugar and coffee. When the 
sugar is dissolved, strain through a napkin into 
molds or glasses which have been wet in cold water. 

SeiTe with cream and whipped cream. 

LEMON JELLY 



^ package of gelatine, 

■J cup of cold water, 

1 pint of boiling water, 

1 cup of sugar, 

f cup of lemon- juice. 



Soak gelatine in cold water until soft. Add the 
boiling water, sugar and lemon-juice. Strain 
through a napkin into molds or glasses which have 
been wet in cold water. For orange jelly use the 
same recipe, using only 1 cup boihng water and 1 
pint of orange- juice, with the juice of 1 lemon. 



176 The New England Cook Book 



WINE JELLY, 

•J package of gelatine, 

^ cup of cold water, 

1 pint of boiling water, 

1 cup of sugar, 

1 lemon, 

1 cup of wine. 

Soak the gelatine in the cold water until it is 
soft ; add the boiling water and the sugar. Stir un- 
til the sugar is dissolved, then add the lemon-juice, 
and when cooled, the wine. Strain through a nap- 
kin. Harden it by placing near the ice. 



GRAPE SHERBET 

For 8 persons mix 1 pint of grape- juice (unfer- 
mented), juice of lemon, and 1 heaping tablespoon- 
ful of gelatine, dissolved in boiling water; freeze 
quickly; add beaten white of 1 egg just before finish. 



LEMON SHERBET 

2J cups of sugar, 
1 quart water, 
5 lemons, 
White of 1 egg. 



Frozen Desserts 177 

Boll the sugar and water 5 minutes, then cool. 
Add the juice of lemons, strain and freeze. Add the 
beaten white of 1 Qgg and pack until needed. 

MILK SHERBET 

1 quart milk, 

2 cups sugar. 

Juice of 3 large lemons. 

Freeze the milk and sugar, add the juice of lemons 
and freeze again, or mix all the ingredients and 
freeze. Pack until needed. 

PINEAPPLE SHERBET 

1 tablespoonful of gelatine, 

1 pint of water, 

1 pint of fresh fruit, 

1 pint of sugar. 

Soak gelatine in enough of the pint of water to 
soften it. Heat the remainder of the water and pour 
it over the gelatine. The fruit should be grated 
and stand 1 hour or more with the sugar over it, 
then added to the dissolved gelatine and strained. 
Freeze and pack it. 



178 The New England Cook Book 



CHARLOTTE RUSSE 

Chill cream thoroughly, 

^ cup powdered sugar, 

1 pint of cream, 

1 tablespoon ful gelatine, soak a few min- 
utes in a little cream. 

Separate the whites from the yolks of 2 
eggs, set whites aside in cold closet un- 
til ready for them. 

Whip the cream, and the portion at the bottom 
which will not cream add to gelatine. Place this 
over the fire until the gelatine melts; add ^ cupful 
of powdered sugar; place over hot water and stir 
until it softens, or add instead J cup of boiling water 
and place over hot water until it is dissolved. 

Add whipped cream, turn into a mold and let it 
stand 2 hours. 

One can add whites of 2 eggs whipped to a stiff 
froth but these can be omitted. Do not add gelatine 
until it is cold and begins to thicken ; when cool add 
flavoring, 1 teaspoonful vanilla, or ^ teaspoonful of 
pistachio and ^ vanilla. 

(When it retains its shape when turned to the 
surface, it is in condition to turn into the mold.) 

To freeze charlotte, grease a paper and put the 
greased side out; then bind a cloth, which has been 



Frozen Desserts 179 

dipped in melted butter, around the edge of mold 
firmly and put in ice and salt for 2 hours. 

LITTLE CREAMS OF 
CHESTNUTS 

25 chestnuts, 

6 or 8 almonds, 

^ ounce gelatine, 

1 cupful milk, 

f cupful sugar, 

1 teaspoonful vanilla, 

^ teaspoonful lemon or a few drops of 

pistachio, 

1 cupful cream. 

After shelling and blanching nuts, cook slowly 
until tender, then pass through a strainer. Soak 
gelatine in a portion of milk, dissolve over hot water. 
Add sugar and let it dissolve. Add remainder of 
milk and mix carefully with the strained nuts, flavor, 
strain and set aside until it begins to congeal, after 
which carefully fold in the cream which has been 
whipped; put into molds and when firm serve with 
whipped cream and candied fruit. 



Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 
BREAD 

S pints of scalded milk, or water, 

1 tablespoonful butter, 

1 tablespoonful salt, 

1 tablespoonful sugar, 

1 cake of yeast. 

About 7 quarts of flour. 

To the scalded milk add butter, sugar and salt, 
mix and cool until lukewarm, after which add the 
yeast which has been dissolved in a little of the luke- 
warm mixture; then add sufficient flour to make a 
thick batter and beat vigorously until smooth and 
full of bubbles. Cover and set in a warm place for 
several hours (2 hours) or until spongy. To this 
add enough more flour to make a soft dough, turn 
out on a bread board and knead until perfectly 
smooth, after which return it to the bowl, grease the 
surface, cover closely and set in a warm place un- 
til it has doubled its bulk, then shape into loaves, 
or rolls, grease the surface and let stand until risen 
double its bulk, then bake in a moderate oven. Loaf 
bread from f to 1 hour; rolls from 20 to 30 min- 

180 



Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 181 

utes. Do not crowd the rolls and bake bread in 
small pans. When done place on a wire basket to 
cool. 

BREAD STICKS 

Roll light dough into a sheet, then cut into strips 
\ inch wide, lay on a greased tin, brush with butter, 
and when light bake until brown. 

CINNAMOlsr OR CURRANT 
BUNS 

To the sponge add 2 well-beaten eggs, 1 cup of 
sugar, then the flour and proceed as directed for 
bread; when light roll in to a sheet spread with but- 
ter, sugar, cinnamon and currants; then roll up and 
cut in slices 1 inch thick ; put into a greased pan 
with cut side up ; let stand 20 or 30 minutes ; then 
bake until brown. 



BOSTON CORN 


CAKE 


1 


cup 


of flour. 




4 


cup 


of cornmeal. 




4 


cup 


of sugar, 




1 


egg 


well beaten, 




1 


cup 


of milk. 




1 


teaspoonful of soda, 





182 The New England Cook Book 

2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, 
A little salt. 

Bake in a moderate oven about 20 minutes or un- 
til done. 

BUTTERMILK BISCUIT 

Take ^ pint of buttermilk, or sour milk, and 1 
pint of flour. Rub into the flour a piece of butter 
half the size of an egg. Add a little salt and stir 
the milk into the flour. Dissolve a teaspoonful of 
saleratus in a very little hot water, and stir into it. 

Add flour enough barely to mold it smooth; roll 
it out upon the board, and cut out and bake exactly 
like the tea biscuit. The advantage of putting in 
the saleratus after the dough is partly mixed, is, 
that the foaming process occasioned by combining 
the sour milk and alkali, raises the whole mass ; where- 
as, if it is stirred first into the milk, much of the ef- 
fervescence is lost, before it is added to the flour. 

CREAM BISCUIT 

These are to be made in the same manner as the 
buttermilk biscuit, except that no butter is required; 
the cream will make them sufficiently short. 



Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 183 

CREAM OF TARTAR BIS- 
CUIT WITHOUT MILK 

Rub a piece of butter the size of an Qgg into 
a quart of flour till there are no little lumps. Then 
add a teaspoonful of salt, and scatter in 2 heaping 
teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Have ready a pint 
of cold water, in which a heaping teaspoonful of 
saleratus or soda has been dissolved; pour it into 
the flour, stirring it quickly with your hand. Do 
this several times that the ingredients may become 
well mixed; then add flour enough to enable you to 
mold it smooth. Roll it out the same thickness as 
tea biscuit. If these are made right, they are as 
light as foam. They may be made of unbolted 
flour, if preferred. Make half the measure for a 
small family. 

FRIED BISCUIT 

Work a piece of butter the size of an egg Into a 
large pint of light bread dough. When it has risen 
again, roll it very thin, cut it into circles or squares, 
and fry them for breakfast. Eat them with salt, 
or with cider and sugar. All crullers and dough- 
nuts are much more healthful fried in clarified drip- 
pings of roast meat, than in lard ; and it is, besides, 
good economy. 



184 The New England Cook Book 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD 

(1) 

Take a quart of rye meal, and the same of fine 
Indian meal. (If this is bitter, scald it before mix- 
ing it with the rye. If it is sweet and fresh, almost 
everything in which it is used is lighter without its 
being scalded.) Mix with warm water, a gill of mo- 
lasses, a teaspoonful of saleratus, a large teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and ^ gill of yeast. Such bread is 
improved by the addition of a gill of boiled pumpkin 
or winter squash. Make it stiff as can easily be 
stirred. Grease a deep, brown pan, thickly, and put 
the bread in it, and dip your hand in water and 
smooth over the top. This will rise faster than other 
bread, and should not be made over night in the 
summer. If put into the oven in the forenoon, it 
will be ready for the tea table. If in the after- 
noon, let it stand in the oven till morning. This 
may be steamed, as directed in the next recipe. 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD 

For a very small family, take J pint of rye meal, 
not sifted, and a pint of sifted Indian meal, a pint of 
sour milk, ^ gill of molasses, a teaspoonful of salt, 
and a large teaspoonful of saleratus. ^lix all the 



Bi'ead, Biscuits and Cakes 185 

ingredients except the saleratus, dissolve that (as it 
should always be) in a little boiling water, and add 
it, stirring the mixture well. Grease a tin pudding- 
pan, or a pail having a close lid, and having put 
the bread in it, set it into a kettle of boiling water. 
The bread should not quite fill the pail, as it must 
have room to swell. See that the water does not 
boil up to the top of the pail, and also take care it 
does not boil entirely away. The bread should be 
cooked at least 4 hours. To serve it, remove the 
lid, and set it a few minutes into the stove oven, 
without the lid, to dry the top ; then it will turn out 
in perfect shape. 

If used as a pudding, those who have cream, can 
make an excellent sauce for it of thick sour cream, 
by stirring into it plenty of sugar, and adding nut- 
meg. This bread is improved by being made, and 
put into the pan or pail in which it is to be boiled, 
2 or 3 hours before it is set into the kettle. It is 
good toasted the next day. 



BOSTON BROWN BREAD 

(3) 
^ cup com meal, 
^ cup graham flour, 
^ cup wheat flour, 
^ teaspoonful salt, 



186 The New England Cook Book 

I teaspoon soda, 
i cup of molasses, 
1 cup sour milk. 
Boil 4 hours. 



GRAHAM BREAD 

Take a pint of warm water, 1 teacup of white 
flour, a spoonful of scalded Indian meal, a small tea- 
cup of yeast, 1 or 2 spoonfuls of molasses, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a small one of saleratus, and stir 
them together; then add as much unbolted, or Gra- 
ham flour {not sifted) as can be stirred in with a 
spoon. Do this over night, and in the morning stir 
it again a few minutes, and pour it into 2 deep tin 
pans. Let it rise up again, and bake an hour. This 
is very excellent bread — a different thing from the 
hard, unpalatable article which many a dyspeptic 
eats as a penance. 

Like the wheat sponge, it is good baked in rings on 
a griddle for breakfast. It will, however, take sev- 
eral minutes longer, and wiU more easily burn, ow- 
ing to the molasses which is in it. 



INDIAN LOAF 

To 1 quart of sweet milk, put a gill of molasses, 
a teaspoonful of saleratus, a heaping pint of Indian 



Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 187 

meal, a gill of flour, and a teaspoonful of salt. Stir 
it well together, put it into a deep brown pan, and 
bake in a slow oven. It should be stirred the last 
thing before being set into the oven. It must be 
in the oven many hours, at least 8 or 9, if it is a 
brick oven, and if set in towards night should stand 
till morning. If it is baked in a range, it will re- 
quire 5 or 6 hours of moderate heat. 

LITCHFIELD CRACKERS 

To 1 pint of cold milk, put a piece of butter the 
size of an egg, 1 small teaspoonful of salt, and 1 
egg. Rub the butter into 1 quart of flour, then add 
the egg and milk. Knead in more flour until it is 
as stiff as it can possibly be made, and pound it with 
an iron pestle, or the broad end of a flatiron, for 
at least 1 hour; then roll it very thin, cut it into 
rounds, prick, and bake in a quick oven, 12 or 15 
minutes. 

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS 

1 yeast cake, 

1 pint milk, scalded and cooled, 

2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 

4 tablespoonfuls lard or butter, melted, 

3 pints sifted flour, 
1 teaspoonful salt. 



188 The New England Cook Book 

Dissolve jeast and sugar in lukewarm milk, add 
lard or butter and 1^ pints of flour. Beat until 
perfectly smooth. Cover and let rise in a warm 
place 1 hour, or until light. Then add remainder 
of flour, or enough to make a dough, and lastly the 
salt. Knead it well. Place in greased bowl. Cover 
and let rise in a warm place for about 1^ hours, 
or until double in bulk. Roll out J inch thick. 
Brush over lightly with butter, cut with 2-inch bis- 
cuit-cutter, crease through center heavily, with dull 
edge of knife, and fold over in pocketbook shape. 
Place in well-greased, shallow pans 1 inch apart. 
Cover and let rise until light — about f hour. Bake 
10 minutes in hot oven. 

RYE BREAD 

Take a pint of water, and a large spoonful of 
fine Indian meal, and make it into gruel. Add a 
pint of milk, and when cool enough, a small gill of 
yeast, and then the flour. Fine, bolted rye flour 
is necessary to make this bread good. Knead it 
about as stiff as white bread. Let it rise over night, 
and then mold and put into 3 pans to rise again. 
When light, bake it about 1 hour. Rye is very ad- 
hesive, and a young cook will be troubled with its 
sticking to her fingers, but practice will make it 
easy to manage. 



Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 189 

ALBANY BREAKFAST 
CAKES 

10 well-beaten eggs, 

3 pints of milk, blood warm, 

^ pound of melted butter, 

2 teaspoonfuls of salt, 

1 teaspoonful of saleratus, dissolved in a 
spoonful of hot water. 

Make a thick batter with white Indian meal, and 
bake in buttered tins, an inch thick when put in. 
Bake 30 or 40 minutes, in a quick oven. 

BRIDGET'S BREAD CAKE 

3 cups of dough, very light, 
3 cups of sugar, 

1 cup of butter, 
1 nutmeg, 
3 eggs, 
^ cup raisins, 

1 teaspoonful of pearlash, dissolved in a 
little hot water. 

Rub the butter and sugar together, add the eggs 
and spice, and mix all thoroughly with the dough. 
Beat it well, and pour into the pans. It will do to 
bake it immediately, but the cake will be lighter if 



190 The New England Cook Book 

it stands a short time to rise, before putting it into 
the oven. It is an excellent cake for conniion use. 

It is v€rij important that the ingredients should 
be thoroughly mixed with the dough. 

CARAWAY CAKES 

(1) 

Three-quarters of a pound of flour, ^ pound of 
butter well inibbed into it, ^ pound of sifted loaf 
sugar, and some caraway seeds. Make these into 
a stiff paste with a little cold water, roll it out 2 or 
3 times, cut it into round cakes, prick them, and 
bake them upon floured tins. For a change, cur- 
rants may be substituted for the carav/ay seeds. 

CARAWAY CAKES 

(2) 

52 quarts of flour, 

1 cup of butter, 

, 1 quart of rolled sugar, 

4 pint of caraway seeds, 

1 teaspoonful of essence of lemon. 

Mix the sugar and butter to a cream, add the 
other materials, roll out, and cut into square cakes, 
and crimp the edges. 

Sal volatile the size of a nutmeg, dissolved in a 
little hot water, improves this. 



Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 191 

CRULLERS 

5 cups of flour, 

1 cup of butter, 

2 cups of sugar, 
4 eggs, 

1 teaspoonful of rose-water, 
Nutmeg. 

Rub the butter and sugar together, add the eggs, 
the whites and yolks beaten separately, then the flour. 
Roll into a sheet about | inch thick, cut this with a 
jagging-iron into long narrow strips. Twist them 
into various shapes, and fry them in hot lard, to a 
light brown. The fat must be abundant in quan- 
tity, and very hot, to prevent the lard from soaking 
into the cake. 

DOUGHNUTS 

1 egg, 

i cup sugar, 
^ cup milk, 
A pinch of salt, 
A little nutmeg, 

2 tablespoonfuls melted butter. 
About 3 cups flour, 

IJ teaspoonfuls baking powder. 

Roll, cut in rings, and drop in hot fat. Fry un- 
til brown. 



192 The Nerv England Cook Book 



RAISED DOUGHNUTS 

Boil a quart of milk, and rub smooth in a little 
cold milk a large gill of ground rice; when the milk 
boils up, stir in the rice and a little salt. Let it boil 
till it thickens, stirring it 2 or 3 times. Pour it, hot, 
upon a quart of flour; when cool enough, add a gill 
of yeast, and flour enough to make it stiffs as bread. 
Knead it a great deal. Let it rise over night, and 
when very light, work in f pound of butter, 1^ 
pounds of sugar beaten in 5 eggs, and add nutmeg 
and lemon-juice and rind. Let it rise again, and 
then roll out and fry it. 

Light bread dough, which is wet with milk, may be 
made into plain, or rice doughnuts, as preferred, with 
very little trouble. Prepare the dough as directed in 
the recipe for rusk, and add 2 or 3 eggs, if con- 
venient. 

FOURRES 

Make a puff paste, form it into 2 equal parts the 
size of the dish in which you mean to place your 
cake, and the thickness of 2 crowns each ; then take 1 
of the cakes and put upon it some sweetmeats, leav- 
ing about an inch, as a border, all round ; wet it with 
water and place the other cake upon it, draw up 
the edges carefully with your fingers ; gild them with 
the yolk of egg^ and bake them in an oven. 



Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 193 



APPLE SAUCE CAKE 

2 cups of flour, 
1 cup of sugar, 

1 cup apple sauce (very thick), 
1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 
1 teaspoonful cloves, 
9, tablespoonfuls melted butter, 
1 pound raisins, 

1 teaspoonful of soda in 1 cup of hot 
water. 

Bake in slow oven about 1 hour. 

FRUIT CAKE WITHOUT 
EGGS 

S pounds of flour, 

If pounds of sugar, 

1 pint of milk, 

J pound of butter, 

^ teaspoonful of salt, 

1^ teaspoonful of soda, or saleratus, or 2 

of sal volatile, dissolved in a little hot 

water, 
1 nutmeg, 
1 pound of raisins, 
1 wine-glass of brandy. 
This makes 3 loaves. 



194 The New England Cook Book 

Warm the milk, and add the butter and salt to it. 
Work the butter and sugar to a cream, and then add 
the milk, then the flour, then the saleratus, and lastly 
the spice and fruit. 

GINGER BREAD 

1 pound of sugar, 

1 pound of sifted flour, 
^ pound of butter, 

6 eggs, 

2 even tablespoonfuls of ginger, 
2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. 

Rub the butter and sugar together, add the eggs 
well beaten, the flour and ginger, and bake in 9> 
square tin sheets. 

GINGERNUTS 

6 pounds of flour, 

1 J pounds of butter, rubbed into the sugar. 
If pounds of sugar, 
1 quart of molasses, 
4 ounces of ginger, 
1 nutmeg. 
Some cinnamon. 
The dough should be stifle, and then kneaded hard 
for a long time. Cut into small cakes. They will 



Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 195 

keep good, closely covered in a stone jar, for many 
months. 

GINGER SNAPS 

1 cup of molasses, 
^ cup of sugar, 

^ cup of butter, 

^ cup of warm water, the butter melted 

with it. 
A small teaspoonful of pearlash, dissolved 

in the water. 

2 tablespoonfuls of ginger. 

The dough should be stiff; knead it well, and roll 
into sheets, cut into round cakes, and bake in a mod- 
erate oven. 

GOLDEN CAKE 

This and the following cake are named from gold 
and silver, on account of their color as well as their 
excellence. 

They should be made together, so as to use both 
portions of the eggs : 

To make Golden Cake, take 

1 pound of flour, dried and sifted, 
1 pound of sugar, 
f pound of butter. 
Yolks of 14 eggs. 



196 The New England Cook Book 

The yellow part of 2 lemons grated, and the juice 
also. 

Beat the sugar and butter to a cream, and add the 
yolks, well beaten and strained. Then add the lemon- 
peel and flour, and a teaspoonful of sal volatile, dis- 
solved in a little hot water. Beat it well, and just 
before putting it into the oven, add the lemon-juice, 
beating it in very thoroughly. 

Bake in square flat pans, ice it thickly, and cut it 
in square pieces. It looks finely on a dish with the 
silver cake. 

SILVER CAKE 

1 pound of sugar, 

f pound of dried and sifted flour, 

6 ounces of butter, 

Mace and citron. 

The whites of 14 eggs. 

Beat the sugar and butter to a cream, add the 
whites cut to a stiff froth, and then the flour. It is 
a beautiful looking cake. 

INDIAN BANNOCK 

1 quart of milk scalded, 
1^ teacup of meal, 
4 eggs, 



Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 197 

1 tablespoonful sugar and a small piece 

of butter, 
^ teaspoon ful salt. 

Scald the milk and pour on the Indian meal and 
be sure to let it cool before adding the eggs. 
Bake ^ hour, 

JENNY LIND 

Take 1 egg, 1 teacup of sugar, 1 of sweet milk, 
9,^ of flour, a dessertspoonful of butter, 2 tea- 
spoonfuls of cream of tartar, 1 of saleratus, and a 
very little salt. To mix it, stir the cream of tartar, 
sugar, and salt into the flour, then the milk, add the 
egg without beating, dissolve the saleratus, and melt 
the butter in a spoonful of hot water, then stir all 
together a few minutes. Bake in 15 minutes in 2 
pans about the size of a breakfast plate. If you 
prefer, make it with sour milk, and omit the cream 
of tartar. 

With the addition of one more egg, a teaspoon- 
ful more of butter, and ^ cup of sugar, and some 
spice, this is a nice cake, and may sometimes be 
very convenient, because so quickly made. 

NUNS' BEADS 

Grate 4 ounces of good cheese, add a little salt, 
the beaten yolks of 3 eggs, and some crumbs of 



198 Tlie New England Cook Book 

bread, roll into balls as large as walnuts, cover with 
pufF paste, and fry them in butter a light brown 
color. Serve them in a napkin. 



NEW ENGLAND SQUASH 
CAKES 

^ cups of milk, 

1 cup of sugar, 

1 tablespoonful of butter, 

2 cups of boiled squash, 
1 beaten Qgg, 

^ yeast cake dissolved in ^ cup of warm 

water, 
^ teaspoonful salt. 

Mix thoroughly with sufficient flour to make a 
soft dough; let rise 6 or 7 hours and bake in muffin 
tins. 

MAPLE CAKE 

^ cup butter, 

1 cup sugar, 

2 eggs, 

^ cup milk, 

Vanilla, 

\^ cups flour, 

1 teaspoonful baking powder. 



Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 199 

Bake in 2 layers. 

Boil 1 cup maple syrup till it hardens in cold 
water, pour slowly over the stiffly-beaten white of 1 
egg. Beat till cold. 



NUT LOAF 

Soak 2 cups of stale bread cinimbs 10 minutes in 
enough rich milk to cover them, drain, and add 1 
cupful of chopped walnut meats, 2 dozen blanched 
almonds and 1 tablespoonful of mixed sweet herbs, 
1 teaspoonful salt, and a dash of Cayenne, and 9, 
eggs slightly beaten. Shape in a loaf and bake f 
hour in a moderate oven. Baste with equal parts 
of hot water and melted butter. 

OLD HARTFORD ELECTION 
CAKE (150 years old) 

5 pounds of dried and sifted flour, 

2 pounds of butter, 

2 pounds of sugar, 

3 gills of distillery yeast, or twice the 

quantity of home-brewed, 

4 eggs, 

1 gill of wine, 
1 gill of brandy, 
J ounce of nutmegs, 



200 The New England Cook Book 

2 pounds of fruit, 
1 quart of milk. 

Rub the butter very fine into the flour, add half 
the sugar, then the yeast, then half the milk (hot in 
winter and blood warm in summer), then the eggs 
well beaten, the wine, and the remainder of the milk. 
Beat it well, and let it stand to rise all night. Beat 
it well in the morning, adding the brandy, the sugar, 
and the spice. Let it rise 3 or 4 hours, till very 
light. Put the cake in buttered pans, and put in the 
fruit as directed previously. If you wish it richer, 
add a pound of citron. 

PLUM CAKE 

Three pounds of flour, 3 pounds of currants, f 
pound of almonds, blanched and beat gi'ossly, about 
^ ounce of them bitter, 4 ounces of sugar, 7 yolks 
and 6 whites of eggs, 1 pint of cream, 2 pounds of 
butter, ^ pint of good ale yeast; mix the eggs and 
the yeast together, strain them; set the cream on the 
fire, melt the butter in it ; stir in the almonds, and 
^ pint of sack, part of which should be put to the 
almonds while beating; mix together the flour, cur- 
rants and sugar, what nutmegs, cloves and mace are 
liked ; stir these to the cream ; put in the yeast. 



Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 201 

POUND CAKE 

1 pound of powdered loaf sugar, 
1 pound of sifted flour, 
J pound of fresh butter, 
8 eggs, 
1 nutmeg. 

Rub the butter and sugar together, until very 
light, then add the yolks of the eggs, the spice, and 
part of the flour. Beat the whites of the eggs to a 
stiffs froth, and stir in with the remainder of the flour. 
Mix all well together, and bake in small tins, icing 
the cakes when they are a little warm. 

SACHEM'S HEAD CORN 
CAKE 

One quart sifted Indian meal, and a teaspoonful 
of salt. 

Three pints of scalded milk cooled, and a teaspoon- 
ful of saleratus, dissolved in S teaspoonfuls of hot 
water, and put into it. 

Beat 8 eggs, and mix all together. Bake 1 hour 
in pans, like sponge cake. 

It looks, when broken, like sponge cake, and is 
very fine. If the whites are cut to a froth, and put 
in, just as it goes to bake, it improves it very much. 



202 The New England Cook Book 

Some think this improved by adding a teacup of 
sugar. Much depends on the baking, and if you 
fail, it is probably owing to the baking. 

SALLY LUNN 

(1) 

A quart of flour, a piece of butter the size of an 
Qgg, S tablespoonfuls of sugar, 2 eggs, 2 teacups 
of milk, 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, 1 of 
saleratus, and a little salt. 

To mix it, scatter the cream of tartar, the salt, and 
the sugar into the flour; add the eggs without hav- 
ing beaten them, the butter melted, and 1 cup of the 
milk; dissolve the saleratus in the remaining cup, 
and then stir all together steadily a few minutes. 
Bake in 3 pans the size of a breakfast plate, 15 or 
20 minutes. For a family of 4 or 5, make half the 
measure. Add spice, and twice the measure of sugar, 
and you have a good plain cake for the cake-basket. 

SALLY LUNN 

(2) 

Take 3 quai-ts of dried flour, ^ cupful of yeast, 
J pound of butter, melted in a sufficient quantity of 
milk to dissolve it, the yolks of 3 eggs, and a little 
salt; make these ingredients into a light dough, let 



Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 203 

it stand before the fire (covered) for 1 hour to 
rise, and bake in a quick oven. The above may be 
made into small cakes. 

TIPSY CAKE 

Pour over a sponge cake, made in the form of a 
porcupine, as much white wine as it will absorb, and 
stick it all over with blanched sweet almonds, cut like 
straws ; or pour wine in the same manner over a thick 
slice of sponge cake; cover the top of it with pre- 
served strawberries or raspberries, and stick cut al- 
monds all round it. 

WALNUT HILL DOUGH- 
NUTS 

1 teacup of sour cream, or milk, 

2 teacups of sugar, 

1 teacup of butter, 

4 eggs, and 1 nutmeg, 

2 teaspoonfuls of saleratus. 
Flour enough to roll. 

Cut into diamond cakes, and fry in hot lard. 

COFFEE FILLING 

Heat 1 cup of rich cream, add 1 cup of granu- 
lated sugar and a heaping tablespoonful of butter. 



204 The New England Cook Book 

Cook until it threads, remove from the fire and whip 
in \ cup of black coffee. Let cool before using. 



CHOCOLATE FILLING 

2 cups of brown sugar, 
^ pound chocolate, 
1 cup of milk, 

1 tablespoonful of butter, 
A few drops of vanilla. 

Put milk, sugar and chocolate into double boiler 
and cook until chocolate melts, after which let cook 
for 30 minutes, or until it thickens. It may be nec- 
essary to have it boil hard for several minutes to 
have it thick enough. Add butter and vanilla, beat 
well and spread over cake. 

LEMON FILLING 

2 eggs, 

2 lemons, 

2 tablespoonfuls boiling water, 

1 cup sugar, 

1 teaspoonful butter. 

Pare lemons^ add boiling water to rind, let stand 
5 minutes. 

To beaten eggs add sugar and lemon- juice, and 



\ 



Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 205 

water from rind. Cook over boiling water until as 
thick as honey. Add butter, and when cool spread 
over cake. 



LEMON FILLING AND 
MERINGUE 

1 large lemon, 

2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
^ eggs, 

1 tablespoonful of cornstarch, 
1 cup of water or milk. 

To the beaten yolks add sugar, grated rind, juice, 
cornstarch and water. Cook in double boiler, stir- 
ring all the time until the mixture begins to thicken, 
after which add a little butter and set aside to cool. 
Should be as thick as cream. Put into pie tin which 
has been lined with the paste. Bake in moderately 
hot oven until the paste is brown and the custard firm. 
Cool before spreading meringue over it. 

For the meringue allow 1 tablespoonful powdered 
sugar for each white, add it slowly to the white which 
has been slightly beaten and beat thoroughly several 
minutes. Spread it over cold pie, place on shelf of 
oven for an instant and brown slightly. 



Beverages 
COFFEE 

1 tablespoonful of coffee to every cupful 

of water that is boiling. 
To every spoonful of coffee ^ an egg shell. 

Pour on boiling water, set on back of stove to 
heat slowly to boiling point. To drive the grounds 
to the bottom, pour in a little cold water. 

TEA 

Allow one scant teaspoonful of tea to every cup 
of boiling water. Scald the teapot, put in the tea, 
pour over the boiling water, cover with a cozy and 
serve in 5 minutes, with cream and sugar or thin 
slices of lemon. 

RUSSIAN TEA 

4 teaspoonfuls of tea, 
4 cups of boiling water, 
4 slices of lemon, 
4 teaspoonfuls of rum. 
206 



Beverages 207 

Proceed as for making tea. Serve in glasses half 
filled with ice into which the rum has been poured. 
Sweeten to taste and add lemon. 



TEA PUNCH 

Boil a cupful of water with a pound of sugar un- 
til it threads, add a cupful of strong tea. Let cool, 
then add a pint of strawberry juice, the juice of 6 
lemons and 4 oranges, and a can of shredded pine- 
apple. Let the mixture stand half a day, then add 
a cupful of maraschino cherries, or fresh strawber- 
ries when in season, 2 sliced bananas, a quart of 
charged water and a quart of champagne. Serve 
with ice. 

COCOA 

1 cupful of boiling water, 

1 cupful of milk, 

2 teaspoonfuls of cocoa, 
2 teaspoonfuls of sugar. 

After mixing cocoa and sugar, add the water 
slowly, mixing to a smooth paste. Let boil for sev- 
eral minutes, after which add the milk, which has 
been scalded; serve at once with or without whipped 
cream. 

Chocolate may be made in the same manner and 



208 The New England Cook Book 

is often flavored with a few drops of vanilla. For 
chocolate allow 1 ounce for every pint. 



GRAPE NECTAR 

Take the juice of 2 lemons and 1 orange, 1 pint 
of grape juice, 1 small cup of sugar, and 1 pint of 
water. Serve ice cold. If served from punch bowl, 
sliced lemon and orange add to the appearance. 

GRAPE PUNCH 

Boil together 1 pound of sugar and ^ pii^t ^^ 
water until it spins a thread; take from the fire and 
when cool add the juice of 6 lemons and a quart 
of grape juice. Stand aside overnight. Serve with 
plain water, apollinaris, or soda water. 

OLD MEDFORD PUNCH 

1 quart of Old Medford rum., 
^ pint of brandy^ 
J pint of claret, 
1 cup of strong tea. 

Sweeten to taste and add S sliced oranges, 1 sliced 
pineapple. Let stand 24 hours. Chill, and just be- 
fore serving, add 2 quarts of champagne. 



Beverages 209 



RASPBERRY VINEGAR 

To 2 quarts of raspberries, put a pint of cider 
vinegar. Let them lie together 2 or 3 days; then 
mash them up and put them in a bag to strain. To 
every pint, when strained, put a pound of best sugar. 
Boil it SO minutes, and skim it. Bottle when cold. 

WEBSTER'S PUNCH 

Two dozen lemons, strained; 2 pounds of sugar, ^ 
pint green tea, strained; 1 quart best brandy, 3 
quarts claret ; bottle and keep over night. Then 
add champagne to suit the taste, strawberries, ba- 
nanas, oranges, cherries, pineapples, and any fruit 
desired. 

Serve in punch bowl with ice. 

FLIP 

To make a quart of flip : — Put the ale on the 
fire to warm, and beat up 3 or 4 eggs, with 4 ounces 
of moist sugar, a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg or 
ginger, and a quartern of good old rum or brandy. 
When the ale nearly boils put it into 1 pitcher, and the 
rum, eggs, etc.,, into another; turn it from one to 
another till it is as smooth as cream. This is called 
a Yard of Flannel, 



210 The New England Cook Book 



SYLLABUBS 

Take the juice of a large lemon, the peel (pared 
very thin), a glass of brandy, 2 of white wine, and 
^ pound of powdered sugar ; put these ingredients into 
a pan and leave them ; the next day add a pint of 
thick cream, and the whites of 2 eggs; whip the 
whole well, and pour the syllabub into glasses. They 
are the better for keeping a day or two. If the 
syllabubs are not wanted quite so good as the above, 
raisin or mountain wine will do as well as brandy. 

COMMON SYLLABUB 

Half a pint of currant, the same of Port or white 
wine, half a grated nutmeg, and the peel of a lemon ; 
sweeten well with pounded loaf or good brown sugar, 
and mix it together in a china bowl, and when the 
sugar dissolves, pour upon it 3 or 4 pints of milk. 
Serve it when cold. 



SYLLABUB, WHIPT 

(1) 

Mix together ^ glass of brandy, a little lemon- 
juice, and grated peel, with sugar enough to sweeten 
the whole; stir it into a pint of thick cream, and 
add the well-beaten whites of 6 eggs ; whisk it for 1 



Beverages 211 

hour, and put the froth, as it rises, upon a sieve to 
drain; put a Httle Port and sweet wine into glasses, 
and fill them up with the froth. 

SYLLABUB, WHIPT 

(2) 

Mix with a pint of cream, ^ pint of sweet wine, 
1 glass of brandy, the juice of a lemon, grated nut- 
meg, 6 ounces of sifted loaf sugar. Nearly fill the 
custard glasses with the mixture, and lay on with a 
spoon some of the whip. 

SYLLABUB, STAFFORD- 
SHIRE 

Put a pint of cider, a glass of brandy, sugar, and 
nutmeg into a bowl; pour warm milk from a large 
teapot some height into it. 

SOMERSETSHIRE 
SYLLABUB 

Put a pint of Port, and a pint of sherry, or any 
other white wine, into a large bowl, sweeten it accord- 
ing to taste ; fill the bowl with milk ; in about 20 min- 
utes' time, cover it tolerably high with clouted cream ; 
grate nutmeg over it; add grated cinnamon. 



212 The New England Cook Book 



BEEF TEA 

Cut a piece of lean, juicy beef into pieces 1 inch 
square, put them into a wide-mouthed bottle and cork 
it tight. Set the bottle into a kettle of cold water 
and boil it 1 J hours. This mode of making beef tea 
concentrates the nourishment more than any other. 

BRUISS 

Take crusts of brown bread, and if they are dry 
and hard, lay them over night in a little water. In 
the morning add milk and boil them slowly. Take 
care they do not burn. Sprinkle in salt, and just 
before you take them up, add a little butter. If 
there is too much milk, take off the lid the latter 
part of the time. Take up the pieces as whole as 
you can. 

Crusts of white bread make a good breakfast dish, 
in the same way, except that they do not need soak- 
ing over night. 



Pickles 
ARTICHOKES 

Gather young artichokes as soon as formed ; throw 
them into boihng brine, and let them boil 2 minutes ; 
drain them ; when cold and dry, put them in jars, and 
cover with vinegar, adding ginger, mace and nut- 
meg. 

TO KEEP ARTICHOKES IN 
PICKLE 

Throw your artichokes in salt and water ^ day. 
Then put your artichokes in boiling water and let 
boil until you can just draw off the bottom leaves. 
Cut off the bottom smooth and clean, put them into 
a jar with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, 2 bay leaves, 
and as much vinegar as will cover them. Cover with 
melted butter ^ 1 inch thick. Tie up close and use 
them as you have occasion. 

TO PICKLE ASPARAGUS 

(1) 

Take the longest asparagus, cut off the white ends. 
Lay evenly in a pot, throw over whole cloves, mace, 

213 



214 The New England Cook Booh 

and a little salt, put over enough white wine vinegar 
to well cover them. Let them lie in this cold pickle 
9 days, then pour the pickle out in a preserving 
kettle, and let it boil until they are very green but not 
soft. When done put in jars and seal. 

TO PICKLE ASPARAGUS 

(2) 

Gather your asparagus and lay in an earthen pot, 
make a strong brine of water and salt, pour it over 
them hot, and keep the pot closely covered. 

When you wish to serve them for the table, soak 
in cold water for 2 hours, boil and butter them in 
the usual manner. If 3^ou use them as a pickle, boil 
and lay them in vinegar. 

TO PICKLE BARBERRIES 

(1) 

Take equal quantities of water and the best vine- 
gar, and to every pint add a pound of sugar, a few 
barberries and some salt. Boil this ^ hour. Pour 
this boiling hot over the barberries, seal in glass jars. 

TO PICKLE BARBERRIES 

(2) 

Get your barberries before they are too ripe; pick 
out the leaves and dead stalks, put them in jars and 



Pickles 215 

cover with a strong brine, and seal. Should a scum 
arise put them into fresh brine ; they need no vinegar 
for their own sharpness is sufficient to keep them. 

TO PICKLE FRENCH 
BEANS 

Take young tender beans ; cut off the top and tail ; 
make a brine of cold water and salt, strong enough 
to bear an egg, put the beans into that brine and 
let them stand 4 days. Drain, add fresh cold water 
to them and let them boil until tender. Drain. To 
a peck of beans allow a gallon of the best vinegar, 
boiled with cloves, mace, whole pepper, and sliced gin- 
ger. Pour this boiling hot on the beans and seal. 

TO PICKLE KIDNEY 
BEANS 

Get your beans when they are young and small, 
then put them into a strong brine of salt and water 
for three days. Stir them up 2 or 3 times each day, 
then put them into a brass pan, with vine leaves over 
and under them, pour on the same water as they 
came out of, cover them close and set them over a 
very slow fire till they are a fine green, then put them 
in a hair-sieve to drain. 

Make a pickle of white wine vinegar, boil it 5 or 
6 minutes, with a little mace, Jamaica pepper, long 



216 The New England Cook Book 

pepper, and a piece or two of ginger sliced, then 
pour it hot upon the kidney beans and seal. 

BEET ROOTS 

Boil or bake gently until they are nearly done; 
drain them and when they begin to cool, peel and 
slice ^ inch thick, then put them in a pickle com- 
posed of black pepper and allspice of each 1 ounce, 
ginger pounded, horseradish sliced, and salt, of each 
^ ounce to every quart of vinegar steeped. 

TO PICKLE BROOM BUDS 

Put the little broom buds into little linen bags — 
make a pickle of salt and water, strong enough to 
bear an Q^g. Put your bags in a pot, cover with 
brine and let them, closely covered, lie until they turn 
black. Change the brine 2 or 3 times until they 
change green. Take them out and boil them as you 
have occasion to use them. When boiled remove 
from the bags and in vinegar they will keep a month 
after this. 

PICKLED CABBAGE 

Shred red and white cabbage, spread it in layers in 
a jar, strew on a handful of salt to each layer; at 
night of the third day, put it in a colander to drain. 



Pickles 2ir 

The next morning, scald the vinegar with whole 
spices in it sufficient to cover it. If you wish to keep 
it several monthsj after 2 weeks drain and pour over 
fresh vinegar. 

TO PICKLE RED CABBAGE 

Cut a close-leaved red cabbage in quarters. Boil 
the cabbage and then pickle in white wine vinegar 
and claret; add beets and turnips that have been 
boiled. 

RED CABBAGE 

Choose fine, firm cabbages; the largest are not the 
best ; trim off the outside leaves, quarter the cabbage, 
take out the large stalk, slice the quarters into a 
colander, and sprinkle a little salt between the lay- 
ers; put but a little salt, as too much will spoil the 
color. Let it remain in the colander until the next 
day, shake it well that all the brine may run off, 
put it in jars, cover it up in hot pickle, composed of 
black pepper and allspice of each an ounce, ginger 
pounded, horseradish sliced, and salt of each 1 
ounce to every quart of vinegar and 1 drachm of 
Cayenne. 



218 The New England Cook Book 

OLD-FASHIONED RECIPE 
FOR CATSUP 

(1) 

Boil 1 gallon of ripe tomatoes and put them 
through a colander; then boil again, adding 6 table- 
spoonfuls of salt or enough to taste. Dissolve S 
tablespoonfuls of mustard and 1 tablespoonful each 
of black pepper, ^ each of Cayenne pepper, allspice 
and cloves in 1 pint of vinegar. Pour this into the 
boiling tomatoes and stir constantly until thick 
enough; then bottle for use. 

If bottles are sealed it will keep for years. 

OLD-FASHIONED RECIPE 
FOR CATSUP 

(2) 

Scald ripe tomatoes, and remove the skin. Let 
them stand a day, covered with salt ; strain thor- 
oughly to remove the seeds. To every 2 quarts of 
the liquor add 3 ounces of cloves, 2 of black pepper, 
2 grated nutmegs, a little Cayenne pepper, and salt. 
Boil all together for ^ hour, then let the mixture 
cool and settle ; add a pint of the best cider vinegar ; 
bottle, cork tightly, and seal. Keep in a cool place. 



Pickles 219 

OLD-FASHIONED RECIPE 
FOR CATSUP 

(3) 

One bushel tomatoes, boiled, strained through a 
colander and sieve, 1 cup of salt, 2 teaspoonfuls each 
of mustard, mace, allspice, cloves, 4 teaspoonfuls of 
white pepper, 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon, 2 cups of 
granulated sugar, 2 quarts of vinegar. Cook over 
night, or until thick. 

CAULIFLOWERS 

Choose firm, full-sized cauliflowers, cut away all 
the leaves and pare the stalk, pull awa}^ the flowers 
by bunches, steep in brine two days, then drain them, 
wipe dry and put them into hot pickle — or merely 
infuse for 3 days S ounces of curry powder in every 
quart of vinegar. 

SALTED CHERRIES 

Select large, perfect fruit and remove the stems. 
Fill a 1-quart jar with cherries, half cover them with 
cold water, then pour enough vinegar in the jar to 
fill; lastly add a teaspoonful of salt. Seal. While 
these cherries are easily prepared, they are delicious 
and can be used as a substitute for olives. 



220 The New England Cook Book 
CHILI SAUCE 

Eighteen ripe tomatoes, 6 onions, 3 green peppers, 
1 cup sugar, 2^ cups vinegar, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, 
1 teaspoonful each of cinnamon, allspice, and nut- 
meg, and i teaspoonful of cloves. Scald and peel 
tomatoes, and cook with onions and peppers until 
tender; then add sugar, vinegar and spices, and cook 
10 minutes. 

CHOW-CHOW 

1 large head red cabbage, 

1 large cauliflower, 

2 quarts small string beans, 
2 quarts green tomatoes, 

^ quarts cucumbers, 

2 quarts silver skin onions. 

Cut cabbage into quarters and remove the core, 
then shave very thin slices, break the cauliflower into 
flowerets, but leave all the others whole. Mix all to- 
gether and add 1 pint of fine salt. 

Let them stand over night. In the morning rinse 
well in cold water and drain. Then add 1 ounce of 
white mustard seed, 1 ounce of celery seed, and 1 
small box of ground mustard. Cover well with vin- 
egar and boil 20 minutes. While cooling mix J 
pound of granulated sugar and 1 tablespoon ful of 
turmeric, and stir thoroughly into the pickles. 



Pickles 221 

CHUTNEY LEAVES 

12 green sour apples, 

2 green peppers, 

6 green tomatoes, 

4 small onions, 

1 cup of raisins, 

1 quart of vinegar, 

2 tablespoonfuls of mustard seed, 
2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 

1 tablespoonful of powdered sugar, 

2 cups of brown sugar. 

Remove the seeds from the raisins and peppers, 
then add the tomatoes and onions, and chop all very 
fine. Put the vinegar, sugar and spices on to boil, 
add the chopped mixture and simmer 1 hour. Then 
add apples, pared and cored, and oook slowly until 
soft. Keep in small bottles well sealed. 

CHUTNEY SAUCE 

Pare and core sour apples. Then take of these 
apples, tomatoes, brown sugar, and best raisins, each 
8 ounces; salt, 4 ounces; red peppers (chillies), and 
powdered ginger, 2 ounces each; garlic and small 
onions, 1 ounce each. Pound the whole well, and add 
3 quarts of best cider or wine vinegar — or vinegar 
made from beer — and 1 quart of lemon- juice. Let 
it stand in the vessel a month, but give it a good 



222 Tlie New England Cook Book 

shake daily. Then pour off the clear liquid and bot- 
tle it. The residue may be used in aid of a second 
batch of sauce, or, rubbed up into a very smooth 
paste, may form a constituent of French mustard. 

TO PICKLE CODLINS 

Get your codlins (small green apples) when they 
are the size of walnuts, put a good many vine leaves 
in the bottom of a pan, then put in your codlins, 
cover them well with vine leaves and set on a slow 
fire till you can peel the skins off, then take them 
carefully up in a hair-sieve, and peel them with a 
penknife, and put them into the same pan with the 
vine leaves and water as before, cover close and set 
them over a slow fire till they are a fine green, then 
drain them through a hair-sieve, and when they are 
cold put them into distilled vinegar, and seal air- 
tight. 

COLD PICKLES 

Season some of the best vinegar with a little garlic, 
a little tarragon and a little sweet oil. Put it into 
a glass jar and keep well covered. You may throw 
into it green seeds and nasturtiums, morello cherries, 
little onions, small young carrots when but a finger 
long, radish pods, and various other things. Keep 
the jar well covered and the pickles will keep as long 
and as well as if it had been boiled. 



Pickles 223 



CORNICHONS 

Take 10 pounds of very small cucumbers. Brush 
them all over to clean them well and cut off the stems. 
Put them into an earthen pan with 2 handfuls of 
salt. Let them rest 24 hours and then drain them. 
When they are well drained, return to the pan and 
cover with boiling hot white wine vinegar. Then 
cover the pan with a lid or dish and let the cucum- 
bers set in the vinegar 24 hours. They will then 
be yellow. Pour the vinegar from them and cover 
with vine leaves. Boil the vinegar again; when it 
boils throw it over the cucumbers, stirring them well. 

When the vinegar is cold, pour it from the cu- 
cumbers, boil it again. Then pour it over them and 
repeat this 4 or 5 times until they are a fine green. 
Keep them in the interval always covered with a 
layer of vine leaves, fresh each time, and also by a 
cloth kept down by a large dish. This, by keep- 
ing in the steam, will assist them in greening; then 
drain and put them in glass jars. 

Boil some fresh white wine vinegar, to every quart 
of which allow ^ ounce of mace, ^ ounce of sliced 
ginger, ^ ounce of whole black pepper, 6 cloves, a 
few sprigs of tarragon and ^ clove of garlic. 

Pour this boiling hot over the pickles and seal the 
jars. 



224 The New England CooJc Book 
TO MANGO CUCUMBERS 

Cut a little slit out of the side of the cucumber, 
and take out the seeds, then fill the space with bruised 
mustard seed, a bit of garlic, some slices of ginger, 
and some bits of horseradish; tie the piece in again 
and make a pickle of vinegar, salt, whole pepper, 
cloves and mace. Boil this and pour it on the 
mangoes — and repeat this each day for 9 days. 
When cold cover air tight. 

TO PICKLE CUCUMBERS 

Wipe your cucumbers very clean. Allow a quart 
of vinegar to every 100 cucumbers; put in dill and 
fennel that has been cut small. Let the vinegar and 
herbs come to a boil, put in the cucumbers and let 
them warm through. Remove from the fire and keep 
close covered until next day. Then do the same. 
On the third day season the liquor before you set 
it on the fire with salt, sliced ginger, whole pepper 
and whole mace. When this comes to a boil put 
in the cucumbers; let the whole boil up; put in jars 
and seal. 

TO PICKLE CUCUMBERS 
IN SLICES 

Cut the cucumbers in thick slices, and to 1 dozen 
cucumbers allow 2 or 3 good onions. Strew on them 



Pickles 225 

a good handful of salt and let them lie in their liquor 
24 hours. Then drain them ; then boil the best white 
wine vinegar, and some cloves^ mace, and Jamaica 
pepper and pour it scalding hot over them. 
Cover air tight and keep them for use. 

SPICED CURRANTS 

(1) 

4 pounds of currants, 
4 pounds of sugar, 

1 pint of vinegar, 

2 tablespoonfuls of cinnamon. 

Boil together until quite thick, say 2 or 3 hours. 

SPICED CURRANTS 

(2) 

To every pound of currants allow 1 pound of 
sugar. Make a syrup in the proportion of 4 pounds 
of sugar to 1 pint of vinegar, 2 teaspoonfuls of cin- 
namon, 2 teaspoonfuls of allspice, 1 teaspoonful of 
cloves, ^ teaspoonful of mace, ^ teaspoonful of salt. 

When boiling add currants and boil 20 minutes. 
Put into tumblers ; stand aside to get cold ; then 
cover. 



226 The New England Cook Book 

SPICED CURRANTS 

(3) 

5 pounds of currants, 

4 pounds of brown sugar, 

5 tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, 
1 tablespoonful of cloves, 

1 pint of vinegar. 

Boil 3 hours. Put in small jars and cover the 
same as jelly. 

DILL PICKLES 

Take small-sized pickles, wash, and allow them to 
stand over night in cold water. In the morning 
drain and pack in a crock with dill between them. 
Boil a brine of ^ tablespoonfuls of salt to 1 quart 
of water. Allow this to get cold, then pour it to 
overflowing over the pickles. Be sure the pickles are 
kept well under the brine. 

DUTCH PICKLE 

Slice 1 peck of green tomatoes and 6 large onions. 
Mix in thoroughly 1 teacupful of salt and let stand 
over night. In the morning drain, add 2 quarts of 
water and 1 quart of vinegar and boil 20 minutes. 
Drain again and throw away liquid. Then add 3 
quarts of vinegar, 2 pounds of sugar, 2 tablespoon- 



Pickles 227 

fuls each of cloves, cinnamon, ginger, allspice and 
mustard, and 12 green peppers chopped fine. Boil 
from 1 to 2 hours. Add curry powder to taste and 
seal in jars. 

TO PICKLE ELDER BUDS 

Get your elder buds when they are the size of 
hop buds, and put them in strong salt and water 
for 9 days and stir them 3 times a day. Then 
put them into a pan, cover them with vine leaves, 
and pour the water on them they came out of, and 
set them over a slow fire until they are quite green. 

Make a pickle for them of vinegar, a little mace, 
a few shallots, and some sliced ginger, boil this 2 
or 3 minutes and pour it upon the buds — tie down 
and keep in a dry place for use. 

ENGLISH SALAD PICKLE 

Peel and slice 6 good-sized cucumbers and 3 
onions. Cover with ^ cupful of salt and let stand 
well pressed down over night. In the morning throw 
away the liquor and add | ounce of mustard seed, 
2 teaspoonfuls of celery seed, 5 ounces of salad oil, 
and 1 pint of cold vinegar. 

This makes a delicious pickle ready to eat in 48 
hours, though the longer it is kept in air-tight jars 
the better it becomes. 



228 The New England Cook Book 
FRENCH PICKLE 

Slice 1 peck of green tomatoes and 6 large onions. 
Let them stand over night in salt. Drain them well 
and cook in 1 quart of vinegar and 2 quarts of 
water for 15 or 20 minutes. Drain again. Add 2 
quarts of vinegar, 2 pounds of brown sugar, -| 
pound mustard seed, 1 tablespoonful of cloves, 1 of 
ground mustard, 1 of cinnamon, 1 of allspice, 1 of 
ginger, 1 teaspoonful red pepper. Boil 15 minutes. 

GARLIC AND ESCHALOTS 

Garlic and eschalots may be pickled in the same 
way as onions. 

GHERKINS OR YOUNG 
CUCUMBERS 

Gherkins or young cucumbers should be the size 
of a finger; smaller ones have not attained their 
flavor and larger ones are apt to be seedy. Put 
them in unglazed stone jars; cover them with brine 
composed of ^ pound of salt dissolved in 1 quart of 
boiling water, and left to become cold. Cover the 
jars and put them on the hearth before the fire 
for 2 or 3 days, till they become yellow, then pour 
off the brine, drain the cucumbers, scald and dry 



Pickles 229 

the jars, return the cucumbers and cover them with 
the best white wine vinegar; set them again before 
the fire and let them remain until they become green, 
which will be in 8 or 10 days, then pour off the 
vinegar and put to them the following pickle: 

To each quart of vinegar allow S ounces of black 
pepper, 1 ounce of ginger, 1 ounce of salt, ^ drachm 
of Cayenne, and 1 ounce of mustard seed. This 
pickle should have been allowed to stand near the 
fire for 2 or 3 days before needed. 

The vinegar in which the cucumbers were greened 
should be bottled. It will make good sauce for cold 
meats or salad. 

SPICED GRAPES 

(1) 

Eight pounds of grapes, mashed and cooked 
enough to strain out the seeds and skins. Put all 
the pulp through a sieve, add 4* pounds of sugar, and 

1 tablespoonful each of cinnamon and allspice, and 

2 teaspoonfuls of cloves. Simmer 3 hours. 

SPICED GRAPES 

(2) 

Four pounds ripe grapes. Mash until all are 
broken; add 12 whole cloves, 12 allspice, 1 inch 
square of stick cinnamon, and half as much ginger. 

Cook until the grapes are perfectly soft, then rub 



230 The New England Cook Book 

through a sieve, add 1 pint of vinegar, and sugar 
to taste. Put on to boil again and simmer until 
thick. 

SPICED GRAPES 

(3) 

Cook 12 pounds of ripe grapes until the skins 
burst. Remove from the fire and press through a 
fine sieve. Pick out as many of the skins as possi- 
ble and cook these with 1^ cupfuls of vinegar. Take 
the pulp and put it in the preserving kettle, adding 
7 pounds of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of cloves, and 2 
teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, add boiled skins. Let this 
boil gently for ^ hour. 

GREEN TOMATO PICKLES 

2 gallons of sliced tomatoes, 
12 good-sized onions, 
2 quarts of vinegar, 

1 quart of sugar, 

2 tablespoonfuls of ground mustard, 
2 tablespoonfuls of black pepper, 

1 tablespoonful of allspice, 

1 tablespoonful of cloves, 

2 tablespoonfuls of salt. 

Put in layers of tomatoes, onions, and mixed spices 
and pour the vinegar over them. 



Pickles 231 



GREEN TOMATO SOY 

2 gallons green tomatoes, sliced without 

peeling, 
12 onions, also sliced, 
2 quarts vinegar, 

1 quart sugar, 

2 tablespoonfuls salt, 

2 tablespoonfuls mustard, 

2 tablespoonfuls black pepper, 

1 tablespoonful celery seed, 

1 tablespoonful allspice, 

1 tablespoonful cloves, 

1 tablespoonful cinnamon, 

I teaspoonful Cayenne. 
Mix all together and cook until tender, stirring 
often to prevent scorching. Put up in small glass 
jars. 

A PICKLE IN IMITATION 
OF INDIAN BAMBOL 

Take the young shoots of elder about the begin- 
ning or middle of May ; take the middle of the stalk, 
the top is not worth doing; peel off the rind and lay 
them in a strong brine of salt and brine 1 night; 
drain and dry in a cloth. Make a pickle of half 
vinegar and half ale ; to every quart of pickle put 1 



232 The New England Cook Book 

ounce of long pepper, 1 ounce of sliced ginger, a 
few peppercorns, a little mace; boil it and put it 
hot over the shoots. Set the jar on the back of 
the stove and let it stand 2 hours, stirring very often. 

INDIAN PICKLE 

The vegetables for this favorite pickle are small 
hard knots of white cabbage sliced, cauliflowers in 
flakes, long carrots not larger than a finger, or large 
carrots sliced, gherkins, French beans, small bottom 
onions, white turnips, radishes, half-grown, radish 
pods, eschalots, young hard apples, green peaches 
when the trees are thinned before the stones are 
formed, vegetable marrow, not larger than a hen's 
Ggg, small green melons, celery, shoots of green el- 
der, horseradish, nasturtiums, capsicums, and garlic. 

As all the vegetables do not come in season to- 
gether, the best method of doing this is to prepare a 
large jar of pickle at such time of the year as most 
of the things may be obtained and the others as they 
come in season. 

Thus the pickle will be nearly a year in making, 
and ought to stand another year before using, when, 
if properly managed, it will be excellent, but will 
keep and continue to improve for years. 

For preparing the several vegetables, the same di- 
rections may be observed as for pickling them sep- 
arately, only boiling is to be avoided, and soaking in 



Pickles 233 

brine to be preferred; be very particular that every 
ingredient is perfectly dry before putting into the 
jar, and that the jar is very closely tied down every 
time that it is opened for the addition of fresh vege- 
tables. 

Neither mushrooms, walnuts, or red cabbage are to 
be admitted. 

For the pickle : To every gallon of the best white 
wine vinegar add salt, 3 ounces ; flour of mustard, ^ 
pound ; turmeric, S ounces ; white ginger sliced, 3 
ounces ; cloves, 1 ounce ; mace, black pepper, long pep- 
per, white pepper, ^ ounce each ; Cayenne, 2 drachms ; 
eschalots peeled, 4 ounces ; garlic peeled, 2 ounces ; 
steep the spice in vinegar on the back of the stove 2 
days. The mustard and turmeric must be rubbed 
smooth with a little cold vinegar, and stirred into the 
rest when as near boiling as possible. Such vegetables 
as are ready must be put in; when Cayenne, nas- 
turtiums or any of the other vegetables come in sea- 
son, put them in the pickle as they are; any need- 
ing to be partially cooked first may be allowed to 
stand in fresh vinegar without spice, and when cold 
added to the general jar. Onions had better not be 
wet at all, but if it is desired not to have the full 
flavor, both onions, eschalots, and garlic may be 
sprinkled with salt in a colander to draw off all the 
strong juice; let them lie 2 or 3 hours. 

The elder, apples, peaches, and so forth to be 



234 The New England Cook Book 

greened as gherkins. The roots: radishes, carrots, 
celery, are only soaked in brine and dried. Half 
a pint of salad oil, or mustard oil, is sometimes added. 
It should be rubbed with the flour of mustard and 
turmeric. 

It is not essential to Indian pickle to have every 
variety of vegetable here mentioned ; but all these are 
admissible, and the greater the variety the more it is 
approved. 

INDIAN RELISH 

Take a medium-sized cabbage and chop it 

fine, 
16 green tomatoes, 

6 large green peppers, 

3 large white oninos. 

Chop all the vegetables very fine, place in a bowl, 
sprinkle liberally with salt and let stand over night. 
The next day drain, and have ready in a saucepan, 
3 pints of vinegar, 1 cup of sugar, a few cloves, 
1 teaspoonful extract of cinnamon, and 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of mustard seed, 2 tablespoonfuls of celery seed, 
tied in a cloth, and let this boil slowly ^ hour. Re- 
move from fire, and when cold pour this over the 
pickles, having removed the celery seed. 



Pickles 235 

TO MAKE ENGLISH 
CATSUP 

Take a wide-mouthed bottle, put in a pint of the 
best vinegar, 10 or 12 cloves of eschalot peeled and 
bruised, then take J pint of the best white wine, boil 
it a little and put to it 12 or 14 anchovies washed 
and shredded, and dissolve them in the wine. When 
cold put them in the bottle, then boil J pint more of 
the wine with some mace, sliced ginger, a few cloves 
and a teaspoonful of whole peppers ; when almost 
cold slice in a small nutmeg, add some lemon-peel, 
and 2 teaspoonfuls of horseradish; add this to the 
other ingredients, seal the bottle, and for a week 
shake it once or twice a day. 

TO PICKLE LEMONS 

Take 12 lemons, scrape them well — then cut 
down into 4 parts, but not quite through, so that 
they hang together. Cover with salt and let them 
stand for 3 days. Then slice an ounce of ginger, 
add 12 cloves of garlic parboiled and salted 3 days, 
a small handful of bruised mustard seed, some In- 
dian red pepper, 1 to every lemon ; take your lemons 
out of the salt and squeeze them gently, and put them 
into a jar with the spice. 

Cover with the best white wine vinegar and seal, 
and in a month's time they will be ready to eat. 



236 TJie New England Cook Book 



TO PICKLE LOBSTERS 

Boil jour lobsters in salt and water, till they will 
easily slip out of the shell, take the tails out whole, 
just crack the claws, and take out the meat as whole 
as possible. Then make a pickle of half white wine 
and half water, put in whole cloves, whole pepper, 
whole mace, 2 or 3 bay leaves ; then put in the lob- 
sters, let them come to a good boil in the pickle, re- 
move them to cool, boil the pickle longer, and when 
both are cold, put them together, keep them for use, 
keeping the pot close covered. 

Serve with oil, vinegar, and lemon. 

TO PICKLE MANGOES 

Take the largest cucumbers you can get before 
they are too ripe or yellow at the ends, then cut a 
piece out of the side, and take out the seeds with an 
apple scraper, or teaspoon, and put them in a very 
strong salt and water for 8 or 9 days, or until they 
are yellow, stir them well 2 or 3 times each day ; then 
put them into a pan with a large quantity of vine 
leaves both under and over them, beat a little roach 
alum very fine, and put it in the salt and water 
that the}'- came out of, pour it upon your cucumbers, 
and set it upon a slow fire, for 4 or 5 hours, till they 
are pretty green, then take them out and drain them 



Pickles 237 

on a hair-sieve; when they are cold put to them a 
little horseradish, then mustard seed, 2 or 3 heads 
of garlic, a few peppercorns, slice a few green cu- 
cumbers in small pieces, then horseradish and the 
same as before mentioned till you have them filled; 
then take the piece you cut out and sew it on with 
a large needle and thread, and do all the rest the 
same way. Have ready a pickle: to every gallon of 
vinegar put 1 ounce of mace, the same of cloves, 2 
ounces of ginger sliced, the same of long pepper, 
black pepper, Jamaica pepper, 3 ounces of mustard 
seed tied up in a bag, 4 ounces of garlic, and a stick 
of horseradish, cut in slices, boil them 5 minutes in 
the vinegar, then pour it on your pickles, tie them 
down and keep them for use. 

TO MAKE MELON 
MANGOE S 

Take small melons not quite ripe, cut a slit down 
the sides and remove the seeds. Beat mustard seed 
with shredded garlic, fill the mangoes with this mix- 
ture and replace the small pieces you cut out. Tie 
them up and put them in your pickle jar. Boil 
enough vinegar to cover them with whole pepper, 
some salt, and Jamaica pepper, and pour this scald- 
ing hot over the mangoes, covering them close to keep 
in the steam. Repeat this every day for 9 days; 
then seal. 



238 The New England Cook Book 

MELONS, MANGOES, AND 
LONG CUCUMBERS 

Melons should not be much more than half grown ; 
cucumbers full grown but not overgrown. Cut off 
the top, leave it hanging by a bit of rind, which 
is to serve as a hinge to a box lid; with a narrow 
spoon scoop out all the seeds, and fill the fruit with 
equal parts of mustard seed, ground pepper, and 
2 or 3 cloves of garlic. 

The lid which encloses the spice may be sewed 
down or tied. 

The pickle may be prepared with the spices di- 
rected for cucumbers, or with the following: 

To each quart of vinegar, put salt, ground mus- 
tard, curry powder, bruised ginger, of each ^ ounce, 
and 1 drachm of Cayenne pepper, all rubbed to- 
gether with a large glassful of salad oil; add 2 
ounces of eschalots, ^ ounce of sliced garlic, steep 
the spice in the vinegar, and put vegetables into it 
hot. 

SWEET PICKLED MELONS 

Select cantaloupes, or musk melons, not quite ripe. 
Cut into oblong pieces, and remove rind and soft 
part near the seeds. 

Prepare the spiced pickle in the following propor- 



Pickles 239 

tions: To every 8 pounds of melon, take 1 pint of 
vinegar and S pounds of sugar. Mix ^ teaspoonful 
each of ground mace, and cloves, 1 teaspoonful each 
of ginger, allspice and cinnamon. Tie this in cloth 
and boil it with the vinegar. 

Cook melon carefully in hot syrup until tender, 
then skim out into a large bowl. Repeat 3 or 4 
times, last time heat all together; put in jars and 
seal hot. 

MUSHROOMS 

Choose small white mushrooms ; they should be 
of one night's growth. Cut off the roots, and rub 
the mushrooms clean with a bit of flannel and salt. 
Put them in a jar, allowing to every quart of mush- 
rooms 1 ounce each of salt and ginger, ^ ounce of 
whole pepper, 8 blades of mace, a bay leaf, a strip 
of lemon-rind, and a wineglassful of sherry. Cover 
the jar close and let it stand on the stove so as to 
be thoroughly heated and on the point of boiling; 
so let it remain a day or two till the liquor is ab- 
sorbed by the mushrooms and spices ; then cover them 
with hot vinegar, close them again and stand till it 
just comes to a boil, then remove from the fire. 

When they are quite cold divide the mushrooms 
and spice into wide-mouthed bottles, filll them up 
with boiling vinegar. Be sure the vinegar covers the 
mushrooms. Seal air tight. 



240 The New England Cook Book 
TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS 

Gather the buttons, peel them in water, wash and 
drain. Put them in a saucepan, then add a good 
quantity of salt, some whole peppers, cloves, mace, 
and nutmegs ; let them boil in their own liquor for 
J hour over a brisk fire. Remove from the fire and 
drain, and put mushrooms in jars. Add to the liquor 
and spice an equal quantity of white wine and vine- 
gar; add a few bay leaves; let this boil a few min- 
utes. Pour it over the mushrooms and seal at once. 

MUSHROOM CATSUP 

Gather mushrooms in dry weather; take the large, 
fully-grown flaps, and see that they are free from in- 
sects and earth. Add to each peck of mushrooms ^ 
pound of salt ; break them up into a large earthen- 
ware pan, strew the salt over them, and let them 
stand for S days, stirring and mashing them up each 
day; then strain out all the juice. To every quart 
of juice put ^ ounce of whole black pepper, -J ounce 
of bruised ginger, ^ ounce of allspice, J ounce of 
Cayenne, and the same quantity of pounded mace. 
Put all the spices with the juice into a large earth- 
enware jar (standing in a pot of water), and boil 
for three hours; or the catsup may be boiled in a 
preserving pan. Let the spices remain in it when 
bottled. 



Pickles 241 

MUSTARD PICKLE 

Chop together equal quantities of cauliflower, white 
onions, green peppers and green tomatoes. Pour 
over them scalding brine. Let stand over night ; then 
drain. Bring to a boil f gallon of vinegar, 1 cup 
of sugar, and 2 tablespoonfuls butter; add 1 cup 
flour, 6 tablespoonfuls ground mustard and ^ ounce 
turmeric powder wet in cold vinegar, and pour it all 
scalding hot over pickle. 

TO PICKLE NASTURTIUMS 

Gather the nasturtium berries soon after the blos- 
soms are gone, put them in cold salt and water, 
change the water once a day for 3 days. Make your 
pickle of white wine vinegar, mace, nutmeg, sliced 
peppercorns, salt, shallots, horseradish; it requires 
to be made pretty strong, as your pickle is not to be 
boiled. When you have drained them, put them into 
a jar, and pour the pickle over them. 

TO PICKLE NASTURTIUM 
BUDS 

Gather your little knobs quickly after your blos- 
soms are off*; put them in cold water and salt for 3 
days, shifting them once a day. Then make a cold 



242 The New England Cook Book 

pickle of white wine, some white wine vinegar, escha- 
lot, horseradish, pepper, salt, cloves, and whole 
mace, and quartered nutmeg; then put in jour seeds 
and cork air tight. They are to be eaten as capers. 



PICKLED NUTS (BUTTER- 
NUTS AND WALNUTS) 

Gather them early in the summer on a hot, clear 
day, when they are tender enough to pierce easily 
with a pin. The large walnuts or shagbarks, which 
have a thick outer rind are the best for pickling. 

Lay them in strong salt and water, J cup of salt 
to a cup of water, for several days, or until tender. 
Change the water every other day. Take them out, 
and rub them with a coarse towel; then put them 
where the sun will shine on them until they are 
black. Shake them occasionally, so they will be uni- 
formly colored. If you do not care for the dark 
color, you may put them at once from the brine into 
cold water for ^ day. When ready to pickle them 
wipe the nuts dry, and fill the jars f full. Take 
a little more than vinegar enough to fill the jars, 
and to every quart allow 5 cup of brown sugar, 
12 cloves, 12 peppercorns, 12 allspice berries, 12 
cassia buds, and 1 square inch stick cinnamon. 

Boil the spices in the vinegar 10 minutes, then 
strain, and pour it boiling hot over tlie nuts. Re- 



Pickles 243 

peat this 2 times and after the last time cover closely 
or seal; put away in cool, dry place. 

They should stand about a month before using. 

ONIONS 

Onions should be chosen about the size of marbles. 

Prepare a hot brine and put them into it; let 
them remain 2 days. Then drain them and when 
quite dry, put them into clean, dry jars, and cover 
with hot pickle, in every quart of which has been 
steeped 1 ounce each of horseradish sliced, black 
pepper, allspice and salt — with or without mustard 
seed. In all pickles the vinegar should always be 
2 inches or more above the vegetables, as it is sure 
to evaporate and if the vegetables are not thoroughly 
immersed in the vinegar they will not keep. 

TO PICKLE SMALL ONIONS 

Take young white onions, as big as the tip of your 
finger, lay them in water and salt 2 days. Drain, 
and cover with boiling vinegar that has been spiced 
according to your taste. Seal. 

TO PICKLE OYSTERS 

Wash your oysters in their own liquor, removing 
with the fingers all bits of gravel or shell that may 



244 The New Ens:land Cook Book 



adhere to them. Strain some fresh liquor and add 
an equal quantity of water, set this on the fire and 
as it boils skim it clean. Then add some whole pep- 
pers, some blades of mace, and the oysters, stirring 
them until the edges curl. Then take them off, put 
them in glass jars, pour the boiling liquor over them 
and seal at once. When you serve them, add white 
wine or vinegar to them. 

TO PICKLE PARSLEY 
GREEN 

Take a large quantity of salt and water, make a 
brine sufficiently strong of salt to bear an egg. Put 
in your parsley, let it stand a week and then drain ; 
make a fresh brine, let it stand another week, then 
drain it thoroughly, put it in fresh water, and change 
it every day for 3 days. Then scald it until it be- 
comes green, take it out and drain it quite dry. 
Boil a quart of distilled vinegar a few minutes with 
2 or 3 blades of mace, a sliced nutmeg, and 1 or 2 
shallots. When it is quite cold, pour it on your pars- 
ley, with 2 or 3 slices of horseradish, and keep it 
for use. 

PICKLED PEACHES 



7 pounds of peaches pared, 
3J pounds of sugar. 



Pickles 245 

1 quart best vinegar, 

1 teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 

1 teaspoonful of cloves. 

Scald 1 pint of vinegar and the sugar, and pour 
over them. 



SWEET PICKLED PLUMS 
OR PEACHES 

If peaches are used wipe them well to remove the 
fur. 

Plums should be pricked in several places, to keep 
them from cracking. 

8 pounds fruit, 

4 pounds of sugar, 

1 quart vinegar, 

2 ounces of whole cloves, 

2 ounces of stick cinnamon, 
^ ounce of ginger root. 

Boil vinegar, sugar and spices together 10 min- 
utes, add peaches and just let them stand 1 or 2 min- 
utes, being careful not to have them boil or become 
soft. Then pour in stone jar and in a week pour 
off the vinegar and scald again. 



246 TJie New England Cook Book 



PICKLED PEARS 

7 pounds of pears, 
4 pounds of sugar, 
2 ounces of cinnamon, 
2 ounces of cloves, 
2 ounces of mace, to 
1 pint of vinegar. 

Pound the spice and put in bag ; prick fruit before 
boiling and boil until tender, then put in the jar; 
boil vinegar and spices and pour on. 

SWEET PICKLED PEARS 

Ten pounds Bartlett pears, not quite ripe; wipe 
them, remove the blossom end; cook in boiling water 
until tender. 

Remove the fruit and strain the water, take 1 quart 
of this water, add to it 1 quart of vinegar, 5 pounds 
sugar, and ^ cup of mixed whole cloves, allspice, 
mace and stick cinnamon. 

Boil -J hour, then add pears and when well scalded 
remove them and pack in jars. Boil syrup down un- 
til there is enough to cover the fruit and seal at 
once. 



Pickles 247 



PEPPER RELISH 

1 dozen green peppers, 
1 dozen red peppers, 
14 medium-sized onions, 
S even tablespoonfuls salt, 
1 teacupful sugar. 

Cut the peppers and onions through meat chopper. 
Pour boihng water over them, let stand 5 minutes, 
drain, repeat second time, drain, then boil 10 min- 
utes, with boiling water turned on them, drain again. 
Add salt, sugar, and 2 small cups of vinegar. 
Cook 15 minutes and can. 

PICCALILLI 

One peck of green tomatoes chopped ; cover with 1 
cup of salt, let stand over night. Chop 5 onions, 
5 peppers, add 2 cups of brown sugar, 1 teaspoon- 
ful of white pepper, 1 tablespoonful ground cinna- 
mon, 1 tablespoonful of allspice, 1 tablespoonful of 
mustard, 2 quarts of vinegar. 

Drain the water off and chop the tomatoes still 
finer, put in the kettle alternate layers of spices and 
tomatoes and cook slowly all day. 



248 The New England Cook Book 



PICKLED PLUMS 

To 14 pounds of plums, take 
7 pounds of sugar, 

1 quart of vinegar, 
S ounces of cloves, 

2 ounces of allspice, 
^ ounce of mace, 

^ pound stick cinnamon. 

Put a layer of plums in a stone jar, and then a 
layer of spices, until you get them all in. Pour on 
the vinegar, set the jar in a pot of warm water, and 
let it boil until the plums on top crack open; put 
the spices in a swiss muslin bag. 



SPICED PLUMS 

7 pounds of plums, 

4 pounds of brown sugar, 

2 tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, 
1 cup of vinegar. 

SWEET PICKLED PLUMS 

7 pounds of plums, 

3 pounds of sugar, 
1 quart of vinegar. 



Pickles 249 

1 ounce of cinnamon, 
1 ounce of cloves. 

Put the spices in a bag and boil in the sugar and 
vinegar, and pour over the fruit while hot. 

PICKLE QUINCE 

Cut 5 or 6 quinces in pieces and put them in an 
earthen pot or pan with a gallon of water and 2 
pounds of honey ; mix together well, and then put 
them in a kettle to boil leisurely for ^ hour, and then 
strain your liquor to an earthen pot and when cold 
wipe your quinces clean, and put them into it. Cover 
air tight and they will keep all the year. 

TO PICKLE RADISHES 

Gather the youngest pods and put them into salt 
and water for 24 hours ; then make a pickle of vine- 
gar, cloves, mace, and whole peppers, add a little 
garlic ; boil this ; drain the pods from the salt and 
water, put them in the pickle, and bring quickly to 
a boil. Put in glass jars, cover with the pickle, and 
seal immediately. 

TO PICKLE RADISH PODS 

Gather your radish pods when they are quite 
3'oung, and put them in salt and water, all night ; 



250 The New England Cook Book 

then boil the salt and water they lay in, and pour it 
upon your pods, and cover your jars close to keep 
in the steam. When it grows cold, make it boiling 
hot, and pour it on again; keep doing so till your 
pods are quite green, then put them in a sieve to 
drain. Make a pickle for them of white wine vine- 
gar, with a little mace, ginger, long pepper, and 
horse radish; pour it boiling hot upon your pods; 
when it is almost cold, make your vinegar twice hot 
as before and pour it upon them. Seal air tight. 

PICKLED RAISINS 

A layer of raisins, a little sugar and spice, and 
scalding vinegar to cover them. 

SALAMAGUNDI 

Salt shad sliced thin and washed in 2 or 3 waters, 
onions sliced thin, cover with vinegar and let stand 
awhile and drain; add fresh vinegar. 

TO PICKLE SAMPHIRE 

(1) 

Pick your samphire from dead or withered 
branches, lay it in a bell metal or brass pot, then 
put in a pint of water and a pint of vinegar; con- 
tinue this until your pickle is an inch above the 



Pickles 251 

samphire. Close the pot tightly and let it boil for 
an hour. When it is cold put in tubs or pots, as- 
sorting the best stalks by themselves. 

TO PICKLE SAMPHIRE 

(2) 

On the seacoast this is merely preserved in salt 
and water, or equal parts of sea salt and vinegar, 
but as it is sometimes sent fresh into inland parts, 
the best way of managing it under such circum- 
stances is to steep it 2 days in brine, then drain and 
put it in a stone jar covered with vinegar and having 
a lid, over which put a thick paste of flour and water 
and set it in a cool oven over night, or in a warmer 
oven until it nearly boils. 

Then when it becomes cold remove the paste and 
add cold vinegar and secure as other pickles. 

SHIRLEY SAUCE 

Twelve good-sized ripe tomatoes; 2 bell peppers 
(large ones); 2 onions (many omit these, and like 
the sauce better — consult your own taste). Scald 
and skin the tomatoes ; chop the peppers and onions 
(if used) very fine. Then add 1 cup of vinegar, and 
boil 2 hours ; then put in another cup of vinegar 
and boil 1 hour, or until the mixture does not sep- 
arate. Then stir in 1 teaspoonful of cloves, 1 des- 



252 The New England Cook Book 

sertspoonful of cinnamon, and a teaspoonful of 
pimento (allspice). 



TO PICKLE SPRATS FOR 
ANCHOVIES 

Take an anchovy barrel, or a deep glazed pot, put 
a few bay leaves at the bottom, a layer of bay salt, 
and some saltpeter, mixed together; then a layer 
of sprats crowded close, then bay leaves, and the same 
salt and sprats and so on until your barrel or pot 
is full ; then put in the head of your barrel tightly 
and once a week turn the other end upwards ; in 
3 months they will be fit to eat as raw anchovies. 

TO PICKLE SPARROWS OR 
SQUAB-PIGEONS 

Take your sparrows, pigeons, or larks, draw them 
and cut off their legs ; then make a pickle of water, 
I pint of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, salt, 
pepper, cloves, and mace. When it boils put in your 
xsparrows ; when they are done remove to cool. Put 
them in a jar, then make a strong pickle of Rhenish 
wine and white wine vinegar; put in an onion, a sprig 
of thyme and savory, some lemon-peel, some cloves, 
mace, and whole pepper; season it pretty high with 
salt ; boil all these together. When cold pour over 



Pickles 253 

your sparrows. Once a month boil the pickle over 
again and when the bones are dissolved it is ready to 
serve. 

CHOPPED TOMATO 
PICKLE 

6 quarts green tomatoes, 

2 or 3 green peppers chopped fine, 

1 cup of salt. 

Let them stand over night. Then drain and boil 
in vinegar and water (about J water). Boil 20 
minutes, drain again, then add 

3 pints of vinegar, 

2 pounds of sugar, 

1 tablespoonful cinnamon, 
1 tablespoonful ginger, 
1^ tablespoonfuls of mustard, 
1 tablespoonful of allspice, and 
1 tablespoonful of cloves. 

Boil -J hour. 

SWEET PICKLED 
TOMATOES 

(1) 

One pint vinegar and 1 pound of sugar to 4 
pounds of fruit. Scald tomatoes in salt and water; 



254 The New England Cook Book 

then drain and place in the jar. Then put sugar 
and vinegar in a kettle on the stove; then spices as 
follows: Cinnamon, cloves and white mustard seed, 
and 1 red pepper, and let them scald thoroughly and 
pour on the tomatoes, keeping them covered. 



SWEET PICKLED 
TOMATOES 

(2) 

Slice and boil in ginger water until the wild taste 
is removed. Then, to 2 pounds of the fruit, take 
1 pound of brown sugar and 1 pint of vinegar. 
Spice very highly with cinnamon, cloves and mace. 
Let it have a good boil. 

TOMATO MANGOES 

Take large green tomatoes, cut with the stem a 
piece large enough to permit the scooping out of 
the seeds, and then fill with mustard seed and spices, 
or anything which is preferred. Secure the piece cut 
out and cover v/ith cold vinegar. 

TOMATO RELISH 

1 peck of green tomatoes sliced, 
1 dozen onions sliced. 



Pickles 255 

Sprinkle them with s;ilt and let them stand until 
the next day, when drain them. Then use the fol- 
lowing* spices : 

1 box mustard, 

H ounces of black pepper, 

1 ounce of whole cloves, 

1 ounce of yellow mustard seed, 

1 ounce of allspice. 

Put in kettle a layer of spices and 1 of tomatoes 
and onions alternately. Cover them with vinegar, 
wet mustard before putting it in. Let the whole boil 
20 minutes. 



TO PICKLE WALNUTS 

Take green walnuts about midsummer, and cover 
with ordinary vinegar; change them into fresh once 
in 14 days for 6 weeks. 

Then take 2 gallons of the best vinegar and put 
in 1 ounce each of bruised coriander seeds, carraway 
seeds and dill seeds, 3 ounces of sliced ginger, 1 
ounce of whole mace, an ounce each of ground nut- 
meg* and pepper. Let this boil a few minutes, add 
the walnuts, boil again, and put in jars and seal. 



256 TJw New England Cook Book 

PICKLED WATERMELON 
RIND 

Pare the green from the rind of a large-sized 
watermelon, cut into small strips and throw into cold 
water. When all are done, put in a porcelain kettle 
in cold water and boil until it can be easily pierced 
with a straw. Strain through a colander, put in 
your kettle 2^ quarts of cider, 2 pounds of sugar, 1 
dozen sticks of cinnamon, 2 teaspoonfuls each of 
whole cloves and allspice. Put the rind when well 
drained into this and boil for an hour or more. Put 
in jar and cover tightly. Can be used in a month. 

SWEET PICKLED WATER- 
MELON RIND 

Cut rinds into small pieces and remove skin; cover 
with cold water and a little salt and cook until ten- 
der. Make a syrup of 6 cups of sugar and 3 of 
vinegar, a few cinnamon sticks, and 2 tablespoonfuls 
of whole cloves. Boil the sugar and vinegar for 6 
minutes, add the spices, and simmer until the syrup 
thickens ; add the rind and simmer an hour. Fill 
jars and seal hot. 



Pickles 257 



WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE 

All the English sauces in popular use are founded 
upon walnut catsup — that is, of English walnuts — 
or upon mushroom catsup. To make a catsup of 
walnuts, the green shells are taken in these propor- 
tions : 2 gallons walnut juice, 5 pounds salt, mixed 
and bruised, and allowed to lie a week ; the liquor is 
then pressed out, and to every gallon is added 4 
ounces of allspice, 3 ounces of ginger, and pepper 
and cloves 2 ounces each, all bruised. The whole 
is then simmered for 30 minutes, and is then set aside 
to clear. This is the catsup. To make a sauce of 
this similar to Worcestershire, take 1 gallon of Port 
wine, f gallon of catsup, 2 pounds anchovies, with 
their liquor, 8 lemons, 48 shallots or small onions, 
scraped horseradish. If pounds; mace, 1 ounce; 
Cayenne, 2 ounces ; mustard, 8 ounces. Boil the 
whole gently, and then strain and bottle. 



Preserves 
APRICOT JAM 

Divide fine apricots that have become yellow, but 
not over ripe ; lay the hollow part uppermost on 
china dishes, and strew over 12 ounces of sugar to 
every pound of fruit. Let it lie until it becomes 
moist, then boil it W minutes, stirring it well. 
Blanch the kernels and boil with the jam. 

APRICOT OR ANY PLUM 
JAM 

After taking away- the stones of the apricots, and 
cutting out any blemishes they may have, put them 
over a slow fire, in a clean stewpan, with ^ pint of 
water ; when scalded, rub them through a hair-sieve. 
To every pound of pulp, put 1 pound of granulated 
sugar ; put it in the preserving pan over a brisk fire ; 
when it boils skim it well, throw in the kernels of 
the apricots, and J ounce of blanched bitter almonds; 
boil rapidly ^ hour, stirring all the time; remove 
from the fire and put in glasses or jam pots; cover 
with paraffine. 

258 



Preserves 259 



APRICOT MARMALADE 

Take ripe apricots, cut in two and remove the 
stones ; put in the preserving kettle and allow 1 pound 
of sugar to one of fruit. Stir frequently and allow 
the fruit to boil 15 minutes or until a thread fomis 
from the spoon. Break half of the kernels, blanch 
the rest and just before removing the marmalade 
from the fire stir these in thoroughly. 

TO PRESERVE APRICOTS 

Stone and pare your apricots. Cover with an 
equal weight of sugar. Let stand over night. 

The next day put them in a preserving kettle, let 
them simmer a while and then boil until they are 
clear and tender. Pierce them with a fork that the 
syrup may penetrate into them, after which put them 
into glasses. Boil and skim the syrup and when it 
is cold put it on the apricots. Seal with paraffine. 

TO PRESERVE BAR- 
BERRIES 

Take the largest barberries you can get. To 
every pound of fruit allow 3 pounds of sugar. Al- 
low the sugar to boil 15 minutes before putting in 
the barberries. Let them come to a boil; remove 



260 The New England Cook Booh 

from fire, skim them and return again to the stove 
and then boil. Then set them aside until the next 
day. Then put in glasses and pour the syrup over 
them. Set in sun to dry. Cover with paraffine. 

BARBERRY SAUCE WITH 
SWEET APPLE 

Half a peck of barberries, 2 quarts of molasses, 1 
peck of sweet apples. 

Pick over the barberries, to remove the stems and 
leaves, wash them, and put on to boil with water 
enough to float them. Add the molasses and cook 
until the berries are tender. 

While they are cooking, pare, quarter, and core 
the apples. Skim out the barberries and cook the 
apples in the syrup, as many as can be cooked con- 
veniently. When tender, put them into the jar with 
the berries, and boil the syrup down until it is thick. 
Pour it over the fruit and the next morning heat all 
together again, and put away in a large stone jar. 
Scald it occasionally and it will keep without seal- 
ing. 

IMITATION BAR-LE-DUC 

Take 1 pound of currants to 5 pounds of raspber- 
ries. Crush the currants and weigh again with the 
raspberries, keeping the fruit separate by a bit of 



Preserves 261 

paper, and allow f pound of sugar to every pound 
of fruit. Let the currants come to a boil, and, skim- 
ming carefully, let boil 25 minutes; then add the 
raspberries, and let cook until it jellies, about 20 min- 
utes longer; seal while hot. 

BRAMBLE AND APPLE 

To every pound mixed fruit allow 1 pound of pre- 
serving sugar; to each pound of bramble add 1 
pound of sliced apple; boil for 1 hour from time it 
simmers. 

PRESERVED CHERRIES 

(1) 

Stone the cherries, saving all the juice; weigh, and 
to each pound allow f of a pound of sugar. If the 
cherries are very sour, allow 1 pound. 

Put the cherries into the preserving kettle, cov- 
ering with sugar, and stand aside for 6 hours; then 
bring it to a boil, skim, and simmer until the cher- 
ries are clear. Pour in jars and seal. 

PRESERVED CHERRIES 

(8) 

Pick and stone your cherries, allow an equal 
weight of sugar. Mix J of the sugar with currant 
juice; allow it to come to a boil, then put in your 



262 The New England Cook Book 

cherries. Boil very rapidly now and then strewing 
in the sugar that was reserved. Skim well and when 
they are done fill glasses and when cold cover with 
paraffine. 

CHERRIES IN BRANDY 

Weigh the best morellos, having cut off the stalks, 
prick them with a needle, and drop them into jars 
or wide-mouthed bottles. Allow f the weight of 
sugar or rock candy, strew, fill up with brandy and 
cover air tight. 

TO MAKE MARMALADE OF 
CHERRIES 

Stone 4 pounds of cherries, add 1 quart of cur- 
rant juice. Simmer until tender, break and mash the 
fruit. Boil 3 pounds of sugar until it coats the 
spoon, add the cherries and boil until it thickens. 
Pour into glasses and when cold cover with paraffine. 

TO PRESERVE CHERRIES 
WITHOUT BOILING 

Cut the stalks an inch from the fruit, put the 
cherries into wide-mouthed bottles (olive bottles are 
excellent for this purpose). When full put pow- 
dered sugar over the top and pour in brandy enough 
to cover the fruit. Cork tightly. 



Preserves 263 

TO PRESERVE GREEN 
CODLINS 

Take codlins about the size of a walnut with the 
stalks and a leaf or 2 on; put a handful of vine 
leaves in a pan of water, then codlins, then vine 
leaves, until the pan is full; cover it close, that no 
steam may get out; set it on a slow fire. When 
they are soft, remove the skins with a knife ; then 
put them in the same water with the vine leaves. It 
must be quite cold or it will be apt to crack them. 
Put in a little alum, and set them over a very slow 
fire until they are green, which will be in 3 or 4 
hours. Take them out and lay them on a sieve 
to drain. Make a good syrup and give them a gen- 
tle boil once a day for 3 days; then put them in 
small jars. When cold cover with paraffine. 

COMPOTE OF CHESTNUTS 

Take some large fine roasted chestnuts, peel them 
and put them in a pan with some powdered sugar and 
a very little water. Let them simmer over a slow- 
fire for ^ hour. When done, take them out, put 
them into a dish, squeeze a little lemon- juice over 
them, and sprinkle with powdered sugar. 



264 The New Eiigland Cook Book 

TO PRESERVE CITRON 
MELON 

Cut the melon into strips or squares, peel and seed 
it. Boil it in water luitil tender ; weigh before boil- 
ing. One pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Dis- 
solve the sugar in some of the water that the fruit 
has been boiled in. Lemon or ginger root to sea- 
son. Put the fruit into the syrup and boil a few 
minutes. 

CRANBERRY JELLY 

(1) 

S quarts of cranberries, 
2 cups of water. 

Boil until soft, strain, add 1 pound of sugar td 
each pint of juice. 

CRANBERRY JELLY 

(2) 

Carefully wash and pick over 2 quarts of cran- 
berries; add 1 pint of cold water and place them in 
a porcelain-lined saucepan over a quick fire; stir oc- 
casionally, and. when the berries are soft mash them 
with a spoon; bring to a boil and then add a quart 



Preserves 265 

bowl full of granulated sugar; boil 10 minutes and 
pour into molds. The berries should not be on the 
fire more than 25 minutes, as the more quickly they 
are done the more brilliant the color of the jelly. 
Cool the molds with cold water before using. 

CURRANT JELLY 

1 pound of sugar to 
1 quart of juice. 

Boil 20 minutes. 

TO DRY CURRANTS IN 
BUNCHES 

When the currants are stoned and tied up in 
bunches, to every pound of currants take 1^ pounds 
of sugar, put ^ pint of water, boil the syrup thor- 
oughly, lay your currants in it, set them on the fire, 
and let them just come to a boil; take them off and 
let them stand in the syrup until next day. Then 
let them come to a boil once more and take them off 
and let them stand 2 days. Remove from the syrup, 
drain well, put the bunches on plates, sift well with 
sugar, and put them near the stove to dry. The 
next day if the upper side is dry, turn them again, 
sift sugar over them, and when they are quite dry, 
lay between papers. 



266 The New England Cook Book 

TO PRESERVE 
CUCUMBERS 

(1) 

Take large and fresh-gathered cucumbers, split 
them and take out the seeds, lay them in salt and 
water that can bear an egg, S days. Set them on 
the fire in cold water and a small lump of alum, and 
boil them a few minutes, or till tender. Drain, and 
pour on them a thin syrup ; let them stand 2 days. 
Boil the syrup again, and put it over the cucumbers ; 
repeat it twice more ; then have ready some fresh 
clarified sugar, boiled until thick ; put in the cucum- 
bers and simmer 5 minutes, set it by until the next 
day, boil the cucumbers and syrup again, and set 
them in glasses for use. 

(2) 

Take small cucumbers and large ones that will cut 
into quarters, the greenest and most free seeds that 
you can get ; put them in strong salt and water, 
in a straight-mouth jar, with a cabbage leaf to keep 
them down; set them in a warm place till they are 
yellow; wash them out and set them over the fire in 
fresh water, with a little salt in, and a fresh cab- 
bage leaf over them; cover the pan very close, but 
take care they do not boil. If they are not a fine 



Preserves 267 

green, change the water and make them hot and 
cover them as before. 

When they are a good green take them off the fire, 
let them stand till they are cold, then cut the large 
ones in quarters, take out the seeds and soft part, 
then put them in cold water, and let them stand 
S days, but change the water twice each day to take 
out the salt. 

Take a pound of sugar and ^ pint of water, set 
it over the fire; when you have skimmed it clean, put 
in a rind of lemon and 1 ounce of ginger, with the 
outside scraped off (when it is pretty thick, take it 
off), and when it is cold wipe the cucumbers dry 
and put them in; boil the syrup once or twice in 2 
or 3 days for 3 weeks and strengthen the syrup, if 
required. The syrup is to be cold when you put it 
on your cucumbers. 

TO PRESERVE SMALL 
CUCUMBERS 

Boil small cucumbers but not very tender; drain 
and make a hole through every one with a large 
needle. Pare and weigh them and to every pound 
allow a pound of sugar. Allow 1 pint of water to 
every pound of sugar and boil together into a syrup, 
keeping them well covered; remove from fire and let 
them stand for 3 or 4 days. 

Make a fresh syrup of J pound of sugar to every 



268 The New England Cook Book 

pound of cucumbers, the juice of lemon, and a little 
ambergris, enough water to moisten it, and when 
this is boiled to a thick syrup, have the pickles 
placed in a jar and pour the syrup over them. Seal. 

TO PRESERVE CURRANTS 
IN JELLY 

Strip the currants from their stems, put in an 
earthen pot placed in boiling water and keep the 
water boiling S hours. Remove the currants to a 
cheese-cloth bag and strain off the juice. To every 
pint of juice add 1 pound of sugar. Have ready 
some fresh ripe currants and let the whole boil 20 
minutes, or until it jellies. Pour in glasses and when 
cold cover with paraffine. 

CURRANTS PRESERVED 
WITHOUT COOKING 

Mash currants thoroughly ; add equal quantities of 
sugar. Let stand 6 or 8 hours; fill jars and cover 
with paraffine. 

PRESERVE CURRANTS IN 
BUNCHES 

White of 1 egg slightly beaten; add pulverized 
sugar enough to make thin frosting. Dip in whole 



Preserves 269 

bunches of cuiTants and when well covered shake 
slightly ; then dip in granulated sugar. Shake and 
lay on plate in sun to dry. 

TO BOTTLE DAMSONS OR 
GOOSEBERRIES 

Damsons should have attained their dark color, 
but not be ripe. Be careful not to bruise them. 
Fill wide-mouthed bottles, shake them down so as to 
get in as many as possible, and to each bottle put 
in a wine glassful of good home-made wine, either 
ginger or raisin, no other is so good. 

Cover the top with paraffine paper; stand the bot- 
tles in cold water up to their necks and let them 
come to a boil, remove from the fire ; remove the paper 
when they are quite cold, cover the fruit with sugar, 
add brandy, and cover the bottles air tight. 

Currants that are full grown but not turned may 
be preserved in the same way. 

DAMSON CHEESE 

It is sometimes made with the whole skins and 
pulp — sometimes with the pulp only. In either 
case, the fruit is first to be baked or boiled in a 
stone jar until it is tender, and the stones will sep- 
arate. 

If the skins are to be used, merely take out the 



270 The New England Cook Book 

stones with a spoon, then measure it into a preserving 
pan. If the skins are objected to, rub it through a 
very coarse sieve, so that they may be retained with 
the stones. Having measured the fruit, set it over a 
brisk fire, and let it boil rapidly until the liquid has 
evaporated dry; then add powdered sugar in the 
proportion of ^ pound to 1 quart of fruit and let it 
boil on until the jam candies to the sides of the pan. 
The stones may be cracked and the kernels skinned 
and boiled in the jam. Place in shallow jars, so 
that the cheese may be easily turned out when brought 
to table. Cover with paraffine to keep it air tight 
until used. 

TO PRESERVE DAMSONS 
WHOLE 

Take some damsons, cut them in pieces and put 
them in a kettle with as much water as will cover 
them. Let them boil until the liquor is pretty strong, 
then strain, and to every pound of damsons allow a 
pound of granulated sugar, put ^ of the sugar in 
the liquor and set it over the fire; when it simmers 
put in your damsons, let them come to a boil, and 
then take them off for ^ hour, keeping them close 
covered; then put them on again and let them sim- 
mer over the fire, often turning them ; take them 
out, put them in a bowl, cover with remainder of 
syrup and pour the hot liquor over them, let them 



Preserves 271 

stand until the next day. Then boil them until they 
are done; take them out and put in pots. Boil the 
liquor until it jellies and pour it on them. When 
cold seal with paraffine. 

FIGS AND WALNUTS 

Pare figs and sprinkle heavily with sugar, and let 
stand over night. Turn into a preserving kettle and 
let cook ^ hours. Add 1 cupful of sugar to 1 pint 
of fruit and the juice of a large lemon. Let this 
cook until transparent and until it will jelly, which 
will be 2 hours or more; stir frequently to prevent 
burning. Half an hour before removing from the 
fire add slightly-chopped walnuts, ^ cupful to 1 pint 
of fruit. Can and seal. 

FOUR-FRUIT JAM 

Gooseberries, cherries, currants, and strawberries, 
equal quantities of sugar; cook until thick. 

GELEE DES QUARTRE 
FRUITS 

Remove the stones and stems from 1 pound of cher- 
ries, seed 1 pound of gooseberries, allow an equal 
quantity of hulled strawberries and currants. Put 
the fruits in a preserving kettle, with 4 pounds of 



272 The New England Cook Book 



&' 



sugar. Let it boil briskly 10 minutes and put in 
jars. 

TO PRESERVE GINGER 

If your ginger can be had green, it is the best. 
Pare it and throw it into cold water, as you do so to 
preserve the whiteness. If dried ginger is used, boil 
it in several waters until tender; then proceed as 
above. After all the stalks are cleanly scraped, boil 
until tender. Pour off the liquor and repeat 3 times ; 
when quite cold drain the ginger and put it in a 
china bowl. 

Clarify sugar for preserving it; allow the propor- 
tion of 8 pounds of sugar to 7 of ginger. Let the 
sugar become cold; then pour enough of the sugar 
over the ginger to cover it. Let it stand 2 days. 
Then strain the syrup from the ginger and boil it 
with the remainder of the sugar W minutes or ^ 
hour. When it is cold, again pour it over the gin- 
ger and let it stand 3 or 4 days ; by this time the 
ginger will have finely swollen. 

Then strain the syrup; put the ginger into jars. 
Let the syrup come to a boil, pour it boiling hot over 
the ginger and seal. 



Preserves 273 

TO PRESERVE GOOSE- 
BERRIES 

Take gooseberries that are not too ripe, stone them, 
put them in the kettle with enough water to cover 
them, scald until they are tender, remove from the 
water and peal off the outer skin, weigh the fruit and 
allow an equal quantity of sugar. 

Add sugar and fruit to water in which goose- 
berries were scalded, boil until the fruit is clear; 
put in glasses, and when cold cover with paraffine. 

TO PRESERVE GOOSE- 
BERRIES IN HOPS 

Take large gooseberries, make a small hole in the 
end and remove the seeds ; be careful not to break 
them. Take fine long thorns or thin skewers and 
fill the stick of thorn with gooseberries, place in a 
covered pan, with enough water to cover the fruit, 
scald, but do not let the water boil, until they are 
green. Drain them. Have ready a syrup made by 
boiling whole gooseberries until they break ; drain off 
the water. To 1 pound of hops allow 1^ pounds of 
granulated sugar; to this add the water and let boil 
until the hops are clear green; then take them out 
and lay them on a platter. 

Boil the syrup until it is thick. Place the hops 



274 The New England Cook Booh 

in a deep jar, then put in the gooseberries that are 
on the sticks, cover with the syrup, and seal. 

GOOSEBERRY JAM 

To every pound of fruit allow f pound of loaf 
sugar, add ^ pint currant juice to each 6 pounds of 
fruit; use dry fruit and stir well in making. Boil 
gooseberries and currant juice for 1 hour; then add 
sugar and boil from -| to f hour from time of sim- 
mering. 

TO MAKE GOOSEBERRY 
JAM 

Gather your gooseberries full ripe, but green; top 
pnd tail them, and weigh them; 1 pound of fruit to 
f pound of sugar, and J pint of water ; boil this clear 
and tender and put them in pots. 



GRAPE MARMALADE 

Pick over and wash grapes, heat slowly, and 
boil until very soft. Rub through a fine sieve, until 
all seeds and skins have gone through. Put what 
remains into a little cold water and rinse well until 
all the pulp is free from the skins ; then strain again 
and add this water to the pulp. Boil slowly J hour. 
Measure the pulp, add equal quantity of sugar, cook 



Preserves 275 

again for 10 minutes, or until it boils up in thick 
bubbles. Turn in jars and cover tightly. 

JAMS 

In making jam of very ripe, juicy fruits a por- 
tion of the jelly may be taken from it, which will 
improve the jam, taking care to have sufficient syinip 
to jelly round the fruit. Each quart of fruit and 2 
pounds of sugar will admit the removal of ^ pint of 
jelly without injury. 

TO MAKE JELLY 

Boil the fruit in just enough v/ater to cover it. 
Then strain through a bag. Measure the juice, and 
to each pint of juice allow 1 pint of white sugar. 
Put the juice on the fire and spread the sugar on 
platters in the oven, so that it and the juice will be 
hot by the same time. Leave the oven door open 
and stir often to prevent burning. Notice when the 
juice begins to boil, and boil exactly 20 minutes. 
Then add sugar and stir quickly till well dissolved, 
no longer. Let it boil up a moment \\4thout touch- 
ing it, and then fill the glasses (prepared as for can- 
ning) without delay before the jelly stiffens. Do not 
cover until cold. 



276 The Ncto England Cook Book 



LEMON PRESERVE 

Pare jour lemons very thin, make a hole in the 
top and remove the core and seeds, rub them with 
salt, and let them lie in water 5 days. Then boil 
them in fresh salt and water 15 minutes; have ready 
a thin syrup of a quart of water and a pound of 
sugar; boil them in it 5 minutes, once a day for 4 
or 5 days. Put them in a large jar, let them stand 
for 6 or 8 weeks, and it will make them look clear 
and plump ; then take them out of their syrup or they 
will mold. 

Make a syrup of sugar with just enough water to 
dissolve it ; boil and skim it ; then put in your lemons, 
and boil them gently until they are clear. Put into 
your jars and seal at once. 

MARMALADE 

1 grapefruit, 10-cent size, 
1 orange, 
1 lemon. 

Slice and chop very fine. Measure and add 3 cups 
water for each cup of fruit; let stand over night. 
In the morning cook 15 minutes. Then measure 
again and add an equal quantity of sugar. 

Makes 15 tumblers. Let cook ^ hour or more. 



Preserves 277 

TO MAKE WHITE 
MARMALADE 

Scald and pare your quinces, scrape the pulp clean 
from the cores, adding to every pound of pulp 1 
pound of sugar. Add a little water to the sugar 
and boil it candy high ; then put in the quince pulp ; 
cook until it thickens ; let it come to a quick boil 
and pour into jars. 

VEGETABLE MARROW 

Pare and scrape out seeds, then cut up marrow 
into rather large pieces and to each pound of mar- 
row allow 1 pound of sugar. 

Let it stand over night, then pour off the liquor 
and boil until it thickens. Put in pieces of marrow, 
with whole ginger and chilli pods, also lemon-rind 
tied in muslin bag, and boil for 1^ hours, or until it 
syrups ; boiling must be done very slowly or it will 
crystallize. One-fourth pound whole ginger, 24 
chilli pods, and 2 lemons to 8 pounds of marrow. 

TO PRESERVE MULBER- 
RIES WHOLE 

Place some mulberries in a pan on the back of the 
stove, with just enough water to prevent their burn- 
ing. When they are done, strain off 1 pint of juice, 



278 The New England Cook Book 

allow 3 pounds of sugar and let the juice and syrup 
come to a boil. Add 2 pounds of ripe mulbemes, 
letting them stand in the syrup until they are thor- 
oughly warm ; let them boil very gently ; when they 
are about half done remove from the fire and let 
them stand in the syrup until the next day. Then 
boil them again, very gently, until the syrup is pretty 
thick. Put in jars and seal. 

ORANGE MARMALADE 

Take a pound of oranges, pare very thin, quarter 
the peel, put it in warm water and cover close, and 
let boil until the peel is tender, changing the water 
2 or 3 times. Drain, scrape off any strings, cut 
fine. Boil a pound of sugar with a little water, put 
in the peels, let boil ^ hour, add the orange pulp, 
free from seeds, and juice of 2 large lemons; let all 
boil together J hour longer. Pour into glasses, and 
when cold cover with paraffine. 

ORIENTAL MARMALADE 

Six pounds of cherries, S pounds of seeded raisins, 
S pounds of sugar and the finely-chopped rinds of 4 
oranges. 

Cook slowly until thick, then add the pulp and 
juice of the oranges and cook 5 minutes longer. Seal 
in cans. 



Preserves 279 

TO PRESERVE ORANGES 
WHOLE 

(1) 

Cover good oranges with water and let them stand 
3 days, turning them twice a day. Drain and tie 
them in a cloth and put them into boiling water. 
They must be kept covered with water and boiled 
until very tender. 

Allow 1| pounds of sugar to every pound of fruit. 
Take § of the sugar and to every pound of this al- 
low a pint of apple water ; allow this to boil. 

Cut a little hole in the bottom of your orange, re- 
move the seed and fill with sugar that is left; prick 
the oranges with a fork and put them into the boil- 
ing syrup and add any sugar that may remain. 
When the syrup jellies and the oranges look clear, 
they are done. Put them in glasses with the hole 
uppermost and pour the syrup over them. Seal. 

TO PRESERVE ORANGES 
WHOLE 

(2) 

Take good seedless oranges, pare them very thin 
and soak them in water 3 or 4 days, turning them 
every day; then drain and put them in a kettle, 



280 TJie New England Cook Book 

cover with water, keeping them under the water, and 
let them boil until tender, replenishing the water as 
it boils off. 

Drain, and to every pound of orange take If 
pounds of sugar; cover your orange with a part of 
the sugar and let them stand a little. 
Then make your jelly for them thus: 
Slice 2 dozen apples into water, boil tender, strain 
the liquor from the pulp and to every pound of 
orange allow H pints of this liquor; put to it J 
of the sugar you have reserved; let this boil and 
skim it well, after which set it aside until it is cold. 
Return it to the kettle, add the oranges, bring to a 
boil, add the remainder of your sugar and let it boil 
until the fruit looks clear. Remove to glasses, put- 
ting an orange in each glass. Continue to boil the 
syrup until it is almost a jelly; pour over the fruit 
and when cold seal with paraffine. 



TO MAKE WHITE QUINCE 
PASTE 

Scald the quinces tender to the core, pare them and 
scrape the quinces clean from the core. Mash very 
smooth and strain through a colander. To every 
pound of pulp allow 1 pound and 2 ounces of sugar. 
Boil the sugar until it candies, then put in the pulp, 
stir it constantly until it comes clear from the bot- 



Preserves 281 

torn of the preserving kettle. Take it off and lay it 
on plates pretty thin. Cut it in whatever shape you 
please and make quince chips of it. Dust it with 
sugar; put it in the stove. Turn it and dust the 
other side. When dry put it in boxes with paper 
between. 

For red quince paste cover the quince with cochi- 
neal. 

BRANDY PEACHES 

Put the peaches into scalding water and pull off 
the skins and let them stand in cold water to keep 
them from turning dark. Make the syrup to boil 
them in, by putting 1 pound of sugar to 2 quarts 
of water. When cooked through in this syrup, take 
out carefully and cool. Take Ij pounds of sugar to 
1 pound of fruit for a syrup, using as little water 
as possible. Boil until quite thick. When cold, 
add to each quart 1 pint of brandy and pour over 
the peaches. 

PEACH MARMALADE 

Take ripe peaches, pare them and cut them in half, 
taking out the stones ; weigh them, and to each pound 
of fruit allow -J pound of sugar. Mash them with 
tlie sugar and put them into the preserving kettle. 
Boll them until they become a shapeless mass, which 



282 Tlie New England Cook Book 

will be about f hour. Stir the marmalade frequently 
to prevent its sticking to the kettle. Blanch half 
the kernels, and cut them in two ; when the marma- 
lade is about half done put them in to give it a fine 
flavor. Take out the kernels when the marmalade is 
cold and then tie it up in pots or glasses ; cover with 
paraffine. 

Marmalade of plums or green gages may be made 
in the same way. 

COMPOTE OF PEARS 

Pare them, but leave them on the stems ; lay in the 
preserving pan. To a dozen pears allow a pound 
of white sugar, a gill of water, a few sticks of cinna- 
mon, with some slips of lemon-peel. Simmer them 
till tender and when done pour in a glass of Port 
wine. When quite done take out the pears and lay 
them in a glass jar. Strain the syrup, give it an- 
other boil and pour it over them. Seal while hot. 

TO PRESERVE GREEN 
PINEAPPLES 

Get small green pineapples, and lay them in a 
strong brine for 5 days. Then put a large handful 
of vine leaves in the bottom of a saucepan, put in 
your pineapples, fill up your pan with vine leaves, 
then pour on the salt and water in which the pine- 



Preserves 283 

apples had been standing, cover up close and let stand 
over a slow fire, until the pineapples are a light green. 
Have ready a thin syrup made of a quart of water 
and a pound of sugar. When it is almost cold 
put it into a deep jar and put in the pineapples, with 
the tops on. Be sure the fruit is well covered with 
the syrup. Then cover them up and let stand a 
week. Boil the syrup again and pour it carefully 
into your jar, lest you break the tops of your pine- 
apples, and let it stand 8 or 10 weeks, and give the 
syrup 2 or 3 boils to keep it from molding. Let 
the syrup stand until it is near cold, before you put 
it on. When your pineapples are quite full and 
gi'een take them out of the syrup ; and make a thick 
syrup of 3 pounds of sugar, with as much water 
as will dissolve it ; boil and skim it well ; put a few 
slices of white ginger in it. When it is near cold, 
pour it upon your pineapple and seal. 

PRESERVED PINEAPPLE 

(1) 

Pare the pineapple and carefully pick out every 
particle of the eyes. A small pointed silver knife 
is best for this work. Either pick off with a fork 
or grate off the soft part, rejecting the core. 

Weigh — allow f pound of sugar to each pound ; 
put all together; stand over night. In the morn- 
ing bring to a boil, skim, and cook slowly ^ hour. 



284 The New England Cook Book 

PRESERVED PINEAPPLE 

(2) 

Remove the eyes and cores of fine large pineapples. 
Shred the fruit with a silver fork and allow f of a 
pound of sugar and 4 cup of water to every pound of 
pineapple. Let the sugar and water come to a boil; 
skim off any impurities that may rise to the surface. 
Put in the pineapple and let it boil gently for f of an 
hour. Fill jars and seal hot. 

TO PRESERVE GOLDEN 
PIPPINS 

Boil the rind of an orange very tender, then lay 
it in water for 2 or 3 daj^s, take a quart of golden 
pippins, pare, core, quarter, and boil them to a strong 
jelly, and run through a jelly bag; then take 12 pip- 
pins, pare them and scrape out the cores ; put 2 
pounds of loaf sugar into a stewpan with near a 
pint of water. When it boils, skim it, and put in 
your pippins, with the orange-rind in thin slices ; let 
them boil till the sugar is very thick and will almost 
candy, then put in a pint of pippin jelly, boil them 
fast till the jelly is clear, then squeeze in the juice 
of a lemon ; let it come to a boil and put into pots or 
glasses with the orange-peel. 



Preserves 285 

PLUM COMPOTE 

6 pounds of plums, pitted, 
6 pounds granulated sugar, 
2 pounds seeded raisins, 
4 large oranges chopped, 
2 J pounds English walnuts (if bought 
shelled, 1 pound). 

Boil to consistency of jelly, put the nuts in whole 
or broken, as you like, after the rest is cooked. Roll 
oranges in sugar before removing the rind, as in that 
way you get the flavor without using the rind. Re- 
move the pits and put the sugar and orange- juice on 
the plums and let stand over night. Stir often if 
sugar is not dissolved. Do not add any water, as 
there will be plenty of syrup. 

Grapes may be used in the same way. 

TO PRESERVE 

BLACK PEAR-PLUMS OR 

BLACK PLUMS 

Take 1 pound of plums, slit them in the seam and 
put them in a close-covered kettle, and set them in 
a pan of boiling water. As they yield liquor pour 
it out. To a pint of this liquor, take \\ pounds of 
sugar; put them together and give them a boil and 
a skim, after which take it off to cool a little ; 



286 The New England Cook Book 

then take jour pound of plums, and as you put 
them in, give every one a prick or two with a needle ; 
simmer on the back part of the stove for | hour, 
then set them aside until the next day, that they may 
absorb the syrup without breaking the skin. 

The next day cook them until the syrup grows 
thick, skim them well and put them in your jars and 
seal. 

TO PRESERVE PLUMS 
GREEN 

The plums that will be greenest are the white 
plums ; gather them about the middle of July. 

Let them soak in water about 12 hours ; then scald 
them in several waters. Do not let the fire be too 
hot, but the second water must boil when the plums 
are put in. When they begin to shrivel, peel off the 
skin, keep the fruit whole and let a third water be 
hot, and when it boils, put in the plums and let them 
boil a few minutes ; remove from fire and keep tight 
covered for | hour, when they should look green and 
tender. 

To every pound of fruit allow a pound of granu- 
lated sugar; put J pound of sugar in 4 tablespoon- 
fuls of water, set it on the fire, and when it begins 
to boil, take it off and put in your plums one by one, 
and strew the rest of your sugar upon them, only sav- 
ing a little to put in with your perfume, musk or 



Preserves 287 

ambergris, which must be put in a little before they 
are done; let them boil gently on a moderate fire ^ 
hour or more, till they are gi*een and the syrup 
thickens, put your plums in jars, bring the syrup to 
a boil, pour it over them and seal. 

TO PRESERVE GREEN 
PLUMS 

Take green plums and put in cold water, let them 
come to a boil, drain and remove the skins, to every 
pound of fruit allow 2 of sugar. Add a little water 
to the sugar and boil to a thick syrup before the 
plums are put in. Boil until tender, put in glasses 
and seal. 

TO PRESERVE WHITE 
PEA R-P L U M S 

Take pear-plums when they are yellow, before they 
are too ripe, give them a slit in the seam, and prick 
them behind. Make ready water scalding hot, put 
a little sugar to it to sweeten it ; and put in your 
plums, and cover them close. Set them on the fire 
to coddle and take them off sometimes a little and set 
them on again ; take care they do not break. Have 
an equal weight of sugar boiled to a syrup, and when 
the plums are coddled pretty tender take them out 
of their liquor and put them in the syrup, which must 



288 The New England Cook Book 

be but blood beat vvlien the plums go in ; let tlieni boil 
till they are clear. Skim them, take them off, let 
stand ^ hours; then fetch them on again and when 
they are thoroughly preserved take them up and lay 
them in glasses, boil your syrup until it is thick, pour 
over your plums. A month after if your syrup 
grows thin boil it up again, or make a fine jell of 
pippins and put on them. 

This way you may do the primordian plum, or 
any white plum; and when they are cold paper them 
up. 

PRESERVE PUMPKIN 

Take a fine ripe pumpkin of deep yellow color. 
Cut from it as many slices as you want; they should 
be cut very thin. Put the slices of pumpkin into 
lime water and let them soak 24 hours. Take them 
out, wash them well, and wipe dry. 

Make a clear syrup of sugar and a little water, 
put the slices of pumpkin into it and let them simmer 
over a slow fire without stirring for a day and a 
night, but first flavor them to your taste with lemon- 
juice mixed into the syrup. 

When done they will be crisp and transparent. 
Put them into broad stone pots and cover with brandy 
paper. 



Preserves 289 

TO MAKE WHITE JELLY 
OF QUINCES 

Pare your quinces and cut them in halves, then 
cover and parboil them; when they are soft take 
them out and crush them through a strainer but not 
too hard, only to clear the juice. Measure an equal 
quantity of juice and granulated sugar, boil the 
sugar until it thickens, put in the juice and let it 
simmer, skim off any froth. Slice a white preserved 
quince and put a piece in the bottom of each jelly- 
glass. Pour your jelly in the glasses and when cold 
seal with paraffine. 

TO MAKE QUINCE MARMA- 
LADE 

Pare, core and quarter your quinces, then weigh 
them; to every pound of quince allow 1 pound of 
sugar. Take the parings and cores and 3 or 4 
quinces cut in pieces, put them in the preserving ket- 
tle and cover them with water and let it boil 2 or 
3 hours, then add a quart of barberries and boil 
for another hour and strain off the liquor. 

Add a pint of this liquor to every pound of quince, 
add \ of your sugar and let boil together over a 
gentle fire, cover closely and be careful it does not 
bum, put in the rest of your sugar by degrees, and 



290 The New England Cook Book 

stir the mass from the bottom. When it is good 
color and very tender try some with a spoon; if it 
jellies enough put into jars and seal when cold. 



TO PRESERVE WHOLE 
QUINCES WHITE 

Take large green quinces, scald them until they are 
pretty soft, pare and core them with a scoop. 

Allow an equal weight of sugar. Make a syrup 
of ^ the quantity of sugar and put in the quinces, 
boiling them as rapidly as possible. 

Have in readiness apple liquor made by boiling 
sliced apples in water until they are tender and strain- 
ing this juice from the pulp. Add to this the re- 
maining sugar, boil until this is a jelly, and when 
your quinces are clear put them into the jelly. Let 
them come to a boil and then put them, in the glasses ; 
when cold seal with paraffine. 

RASPBERRY JAM 

(1) 

To every pound of fruit allow 1 pound of sugar, 
^ pint red currant juice. Gather fruit in dry 
w^eather, take off stalks, and put into preserving pan ; 
break well with wooden spoon and boil for \ hour, 
keeping well stirred. Then add currant juice and 



Preserves 291 

sugar and boil for ^ hour, skim well after sugar is 
added or presei*ve will not be clear. 

RASPBERRY JAM 

(2) 

Rub fresh gathered raspberries, picked on a dry 
day, through a wicker sieve; to 1 pint of pulp, put 
1 pound of granulated sugar, put it in the preserv- 
ing pan over a hot fire; when it begins to boil, skim 
it well and stir it 20 minutes; put in small glasses, 
cover with paraffine. 

TO PRESERVE RASPBER- 
RIES IN JELLY 

To a pound of the best fruit allow 1^ pounds of 
sugar. Boil the sugar into a thick syiaip, add the 
fruit and boil gently, adding by degrees ^ pint of 
currant juice. When the whole will jelly in the 
spoon, skim off the seeds and fill the jelly glasses. 
When cold cover with paraffine. 

RHUBARB JAM 

To every pound of fruit allow 1 pound of loaf 
sugar, and rind of ^ lemon. Wipe fruit perfectly 
dry. Strip off peel or string and slice up ; boil 
slowly and stir well while boiling, skim well. Boil 
young fruit f hour, old fruit \\ to IJ hours. 



292 The New England Cook Book 



RHUBARB MARMALADE 

2 pounds rhubarb cut into pieces, 
1| pounds of sugar, 
1 lemon, rind only. 

Put all together in a deep dish, cutting the rind 
of the lemon fine. Let it stand until next day. 
Then pour off the juice into a preserving kettle and 
boil nearly f hour. Add fruit and boil 10 minutes. 
Put in jars and seal when cold. 

TO PRESERVE SPRIGS 
GREEN 

Gather the sprigs of mustard when it is going to 
seed, put them in a pan of spring water, with a great 
many vine leaves under and over them ; put to them 
1 ounce of alum, set it over a gentle fire; when it 
is hot take it off, and let it stand till it is quite cold, 
then cover it very close and set it near the fire. 
When they are green take out the sprigs and lay 
them on a sieve to drain. Make a good syrup ; boil 
your sprigs in it once a day for 3 days, put them in 
jars and keep for use. 

They are very pretty to stick in the middle of a 
preserved orange. You may preserve young peas 
when they are just come into pod the same way. 



Preserves 293 



STRAWBERRIES 

Put I pound of sugar and 2 tablespoonfuls water 
to boil until it crystallizes. Put in the best big 
strawberries and just let it come to a boil. Skim 
out fruit and put in jars; fill to overflowing with 
boiling syrup. Seal. 

STRAWBERRY JAM 

To every pound of fruit allow IJ pounds of loaf 
sugar. 

Select well-ripened but sound strawberries, pick 
them from the stalks, and put the fruit and sugar in 
a preserving pan. 

Simmer the whole over a moderate fire from J to 
f hour, carefully removing scum as it rises. Stir 
jam only enough to prevent it from burning, as the 
fruit should be preserved as whole as possible. 

STRAWBERRY JELLY 

Crush 4 pounds of strawberries with 1 pound of 
white gooseberries, strain the juice through a cloth, 
and to every quart of juice allow an equal quantity 
of sugar; let the juice and sugar come to a boil, 
and boil until it jellies, about ^ hour. 



294j The New England Cook Book 

STRAWBERRY MARMA- 
LADE 

Put 4 quarts of strawberries through a fine sieve. 
Boil what has been strained until it is reduced ^. 
Have ready a thick syrup of 3 pounds of sugar and 
1^ cups of water. Add sugar to the fruit and boil 
20 minutes. Skim carefully as it boils. 

STRAWBERRIES, RASP- 
BERRIES, GOOSEBER- 
RIES, AND CURRANTS 

Allow an equal weight of sugar and fruit, put the 
fruit in a preserving pan, bruise it a little and put it 
on the stove^ stir it carefully to keep it from stick- 
ing to the bottom and sides of the pan. Let it boil 
I hour before adding the sugar. Skim it well. Boil 
until the syrup jellies when put on a plate and al- 
lowed to cool. When done put in jars, set in the 
sun for several hours and when cold cover with par- 
affine. 

TO MAKE SYRUP OF 
ORANGE PEEL 

To every pint of water in which the orange peels 
were steeped boil it and when it has boiled a little 



Preserves 295 

squeeze in sufficient lemon- juice to please the taste, 
having filtered the lemon-juice through a thin cloth. 
Boil and skim the syrup until clear; then bottle. 

SYRUP FOR PRESERVES 

3 pounds granulated sugar, 
1 pint clear cold water. 
White of 1 Qgg. 

Put the sugar and water into a porcelain-lined ket- 
tle. Set it on the fire. Before the syrup becomes 
hot, beat the Ggg slightly and mix thoroughly into 
it. When it begins to boil, skim it. Do not let it 
boil over, but let it boil until no more scum arises. 
The object of the egg is to clarify the syrup; it 
can be made with or without. 

GREEN TOMATO 
PRESERVE 

To every pound of tomatoes use an equal amount 
of sugar. Slice tomatoes over night in the sugar. 
In the morning boil together until the tomatoes look 
transparent. If the juice is not thick enough skim 
out the tomatoes and boil it down. When the pre- 
serve is nearly done add lemons, allowing 1 to every 
2 pounds of fruit. Do not slice lemons too thin. 

This makes an excellent preserve and tastes much 
like preserved figs. 



296 Tlie New England Cook Book 

TOMATO MARMALADE 

(1) 

To 1 quart of ripe tomatoes measured after the 
fruit has been peeled, cut up, brought to a boil and 
skimmed thoroughly, or to each 2-pound can toma- 
toes, take 2 pounds of sugar, 2 oranges, and 1 lemon. 
Remove the pulp from the oranges and lemon with 
a spoon, boil the rinds until tliej are tender, and cut 
them in narrow strips with a pair of scissors. Put 
all the ingredients on to boil slowly, stirring con- 
stantly, for about S hours, or until the marmalade 
is thick and the strips of rind and other particles of 
fruit are transparent. 

Seal tight in small jars. Made of yellow tomatoes 
the marmalade is beautiful. 

TOMATO MARMALADE 

(2) 
Take fine and ripe tomatoes, cut them in halves, 
and squeeze out the juice. Put them in a preserv- 
ing pan, with a few peach leaves, a clove of garlic, 
some slices of onion or shallot, and a bundle of pars- 
ley. Stew them until they are sufficiently done, pulp 
them through a sieve, and boil them down like other 
marmalade, adding salt. Put them into small jars, 
pepper the tops, and pour clarified butter over. Eat 
it with fish, etc., or stir the contents of a small pot 
into the gravy of stews or fricassees. 



Candies and Conserves 
BURNT ALMONDS 

Take a pound of shelled sweet almonds, a pound 
of loaf sugar, and ^ pint of water. Melt the sugar 
and water and then set it over the fire. Put in the 
almonds, and stir them about till they are well dis- 
persed through the sugar. Let them boil and when 
you hear the almonds crack they are sufficiently done. 
Take them off and stir them till they are dry, and 
then put them into a wire sieve and sift from them 
the loose sugar. 

Put this sugar again into the pan with sufficient 
water to moisten it, and let come to a boil. Then 
put in 2 spoonfuls of cochineal powder to color it 
red; add the almonds and stir them over the fire un- 
til they are quite dry. Put them away in glass jars. 

TO FRICASSfiE ALMONDS 

Take 1 pound of unbleached almonds, dip them in 
the beaten white of an egg. 

Then take J pound of granulated sugar, boil until 
it sugars again, put in your almonds and stir them 

297 



298 Tlie New England Cook Book 

until they are well covered with sugar, then set them 
on plates and put in a slow oven to dry for several 
hours. Keep them in a dry place. They are a 
pretty sweetmeat. 

TO PARCH ALMONDS 

Take 1 pound of sugar, make a thick syrup, then 
put in f pound of blanched almonds ; keep them stir- 
ring until they are dry and crisp. Then put them in 
a box and keep them dry. 

TO MAKE ALMOND 
WAFERS 

Boil 1 pound of granulated sugar until it makes a 
thin candy ; have ready ^ pound of blanched almonds, 
pounded fine with a little rose- or orange-water, the 
juice of 1 lemon, the peel of 2 lemons grated into the 
juice; put the ingredients together and stir over a 
gentle fire until the sugar is well melted, but do not 
let come to a boil after the lemon is in. Spread on 
dishes, and when it is cool cut into whatever form 
you please. 

TO CANDY ANGELICA 

Take angelica that is young, cut it in the desired 
lengths, and boil it until it is pretty tender, keeping 



Candies and Conserves 299 

it close covered. Take it up and peel off the strings ; 
then put it on again and let it simmer until it is very 
green. Drain, dry it with a cloth and allow to every 
pound of angelica 1 pound of sugar; put the an- 
gelica in an earthen bowl, cover with the sugar and 
let it stand 2 days, then boil it till it looks very clear, 
put it in a colander to drain the syrup from it. Set 
it on a plate and sprinkle with granulated sugar. 
Dry in a slow oven. 

TO MAKE APRICOT CHIPS 

Pare the apricots and divide them in the middle, 
remove the stone, cut them crosswise very thin, as 
you cut them sprinkle with a little sugar; then set 
them on the fire and let them stew ^ hour, take them 
off, cover them up, and let them stand until next day ; 
then set them on the stove and let them cook an- 
other i hour, take them out one by one and lay them 
on platters, strew sugar on them; dry them in a cool 
oven, turning them often, or in the sun. When dry 
put them in boxes. 

TO DRY APRICOTS LIKE 
PRUNELLOS 

Take a pound of apricots, cut in halves or 
quarters, let them boil until they are very tender in 
a thin syrup ; let them stand a day two on the stove, 



300 The New England Cook Book 

take them out of the sjrup and let them dry in the 
sun ; then box them and keep in a dry place. 



BARLEY SUGAR 

Clarify 3 pounds of refined sugar, boil it until it 
cracks when a spoonful is dipped into cold water; 
squeeze in a small teaspoonful of the juice, or 4 
drops of the essence of lemon, and let boil up once 
or twice; set it by a few minutes; have ready a mar- 
ble slab or smooth stone, rubbed over with sweet oil, 
pour over the sugar, cut into long strips with a large 
pair of scissors ; twist it a little and when cold keep 
it from the air in tin boxes or canisters. 

A few drops of essence of ginger instead of lemon 
will make what is called ginger barley sugar. 

BARLEY SUGAR DROPS 

To be made as the last recipe. Have ready by 
the time the sugar is boiled sufficiently, a large sheet 
of paper, with a smooth layer of sifted loaf sugar 
on it, put the boiled sugar in a ladle that has a fine 
lip ; pour it out in drops not larger than a shilling. 
When cold, fold them up separately in white paper. 



Candies and Conserves 301 



TO CONSERVE CHERRIES 

Take large cherries, not too ripe, pick off the 
stalks, and take out the stones. To 3 pounds of 
cherries allow 3 pints of clarified sugar. Boil the 
sugar until it is a thick syrup, add more sugar and 
boil until it is thick, put the cherries in and boil them 
5 minutes ; let them stand in the syrup until the fol- 
lowing day. Repeat the boiling 2 more days, drain 
and lay them in a wire sieve to dry. Keep in boxes 
lined with paraffine paper. 



CHOCOLATE CARAMELS 

(1) 

3 pounds of brown sugar, 

^ pound of chocolate, 

1 cup of milk, 

1 heaping tablespoonful of butter, 

1 teaspoonful vanilla. 

Put all materials together except vanilla and cook 
slowly, stirring often until it boils. Boil rapidly, 
stirring very often until the mixture forms a smooth, 
even coating over the spoon. Remove from the 
stove, add vanilla and beat vigorously until quite 
thick, turn into greased pans and mark into square 
blocks when cool. 



802 The New England Cook Book 



CHOCOLATE CARAMELS 

(2) 

1 cup of molasses, 

2 cups sugar, 
1 cup milk, 

^ pound chocolate. 

Boil W minutes. 



CHOCOLATE CREAM 
CANDY 

Chocolate, scraped fine, ^ ounce; thick cream, 1 
pint; best sugar, 3 ounces; heat it nearly to boiling, 
then remove it from the fire, and mill it well. When 
cold, add the whites of 4 or 5 eggs; whisk rapidly 
and take up the froth on a sieve ; serve the cream in 
glasses, and pile up the froth on top of them. 

CHOCOLATE CREAMS 

To the white of an egg add an equal quantity of 
cream. Stir in 1 pound of confectioners' sugar. 
Flavor with vanilla and stir with the hand until fine, 
then mold into small balls and drop into melted choco- 
late. 



Candies and Conserves 303 



CHOCOLATE DROPS 

Scrape some of the best chocolate, and mix it with 
powdered white sugar. Moisten it with a httle water 
so as to make a paste. Work it on a plate with 
a knife. Then boil it in a pan with a lip, and pour 
it, a drop at a time, into a cold tin plate. 

While moist, sprinkle colored sugar-sand over the 
surface of each chocolate drop. When they are 
hardened remove from the tin by slipping under them 
the point of a knife. 

COCOANUT CANDY 

J pound of sugar, 

2 tablespoonfuls of water. Boil together. 

^ pound of grated cocoanut. 

Stir until boiled to a flake. Put in buttered tins 
and cut in squares when cold. 

CREAM CAND¥; 

One pint of granulated sugar, ^ pint of water, 1 
tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil as molasses candy, 
do not stir. Work in vanilla as you pull it. 



304 The New England Cook Book 

EVERTON TAFFY CANDY 

(1) 

To make this favorite and wholesome candy, take 
H pounds of moist sugar, 3 ounces of butter, 1 tea- 
cupful of water, and 1 lemon. Boil the sugar, but- 
ter, water and half the rind of the lemon together, 
and when done, which will be known by dropping into 
cold water, when it should be quite crisp ; let it stand 
aside until the boiling has ceased, and then stir in 
the juice of the lemon. Butter a dish, and pour 
it in about ^ inch in thickness. The fire must be 
quick, and the taffy stirred all the time. 

EVERTON TAFFY CANDY 

(2) 

1^ pounds brown sugar, 

3 ounces of butter, 

•J teacupful of cold water. 

Boil all together with the rind of 1 lemon, adding 
the juice when done. 

FIG CANDY 

Take 1 pound of sugar and 1 pint of water, and 
set over a slow fire. When done, add a few drops 
of vinegar and a lump of butter, and put into pans 
in which split figs are laid. 



Candies and Conserves 305 



TOMATO FIGS 

Allow ^ pound of coffee sugar to every pound of 
tomatoes (yellow plum tomatoes or very small red 
ones). 

Put just enough water with sugar to melt it. 
When it boils put in tomatoes with skins on. Let 
them simmer gently until transparent (about 2 
hours). Skim out carefully and drain off all syrup. 
Spread on platter to dry in sun ; sprinkle a little 
sugar over them while drying; do so for % or 3 days. 
Pack in boxes. (7 pounds tomatoes, % quarts figs.) 

TO CANDY FLOWERS 

Gather your flowers when dry, cut off the leaves 
as far as the color is good. Boil sugar and water 
to a thick syrup, put in your flowers — primroses, 
violets, cowslips, or borage — or whatever they may 
be, take them out as quickly as you can with as lit- 
tle of the syrup as possible, spread them on a warm 
dish over a gentle fire to allow the syrup to drain 
from them. When they have drained sufficiently re- 
move to another warm dish and sprinkle with granu- 
lated sugar. Then rub the flowers gently with your 
hands to open the leaves, sprinkling them every now 
and then with more sugar, until they are thoroughly 
open and dry. Then place them in a colander and 



306 The New England Cook Booh 

sift the sugar from them. Keep in a box hned with 
parafiine paper in a dry place. 

Rosemary flowers must be put whole into the syrup ; 
young mint leaves you must open with your fingers; 
but rub all blossoms with the hands as directed. 



TO CANDY ANY SORT OF 
FLOWERS 

Take your flowers and pick them from the white 
part; then take fine sugar and boil it candy high, 
boil as much as you think will receive the quantity 
of flowers you do ; then put in the flowers, and stir 
them about until you see the sugar candy well about 
them, and keep them stirring until they are cold in the 
pan you candied them in; then sift the loose sugar 
from them and keep them in boxes very dry. 

TOMAKECANDYCAKESOF 
FLOWERS 

Boil the syrup until it candies, then- strew in your 
flowers, let them come up to a boil, then scatter in a 
little granulated sugar, then as quickly as possible 
pour into little shaped pans or boxes of cardboard, 
the bottom of which has been pricked with holes. 
Set aside to cool. 



Candies and Conserves 307 



FONDANT 

2 cups granulated sugar, 

f cup hot water, 

\ teaspoonful cream tartar. 

Mix, heat slowly, stirring until all sugar has dis- 
solved, no longer; then with a sponge wash the crys- 
tals from the side of the pan, using care to keep them 
from shaking the sugar. Boil rapidly until 236° 
F. are reached, washing the crystal of sugar from 
the side of the pan as they form. When many bub- 
bles rise to the surface, begin to test it by dipping 
the fingers into very cold water, then into the boil- 
ing syrup and then back to the water. If a small 
ball forms between the fingers then it is ready. With- 
out jarring the pan turn into a greased dish and set 
in a cold place. When it is cold enough to bear the 
finger beat with a wooden spoon until a thick white 
mass is made, then knead as for bread, using confec- 
tioners' sugar (4X) in place of flour. Put into a 
dish, cover with damp cheesecloth and set away until 
next day. Flavor and color to suit the taste. 

FRUIT CANDY 

Take 1 pound of the best loaf sugar; dip each 
lump into a bowl of water, and put the sugar into 
your preserving kettle. Boil it down and skim it un- 



308 The New England Cook Book 

til it is perfectly clear, and in a candying state. 
When sufficiently boiled, have ready the fruits you 
wish to preserve. Large white grapes, oranges sep- 
arated into very small pieces, or preserved fruits, 
taken out of their syrup and dried, are very nice. 
Dip the fi-uits into the prepared sugar while it is 
hot; put them in a cold place, and they will soon be- 
come hard. 

CANDIED FRUIT 

Peal and stone plums, peaches, or cherries. Have 
ready a thick syrup, made by boiling together 1 
pound of sugar and 1 cup of water. (This is the 
preparation.) Put in the fruit and boil very slowly 
until tender. Do not leave it on the stove after this ; 
it would spoil the shape of the fruit. Set away the 
preserving kettle just as it is in a cool place. Leave 
the fruit in the syrup for 2 days to absorb it. Then 
take out the pieces and drain them. Sprinkle each 
one thickly with granulated sugar, covering every 
side. Pack in pasteboard boxes, with paper laid 
between, before which lay on clean paper and set in 
the air to dry, but not in the sun. Keep in a cool 
place. 



Candies and Conserves 309 

TO CANDY ANY FRUIT 

After 3 ou have preserved your fruit dip them sud- 
denly into warm water to take off the syrup. Cover 
with granulated sugar, then place them in a sieve, 
in a warm oven, turn them 2 or 3 times. When they 
are dry remove to a cold, dry place. 

FRUIT IN SUGAR COATS 

Prepare some of the best loaf sugar powdered as 
fine as possible. Dip in white of ^gg some of the 
best and largest plums, cherries, strawberries, rasp- 
berries, apricots, or other suitable fruit, then roll it 
in the powdered sugar. Lay it in a dish and set in 
a cool oven to harden. 

MARSHMALLOW FUDGE 

2 cups of sugar, 

^ cup of milk, 

A large piece of butter. 

When these three boil, add 

2^ squares of chocolate, and boil for 5 min- 
utes, stirring. 

After taking from the stove, add 

1 teaspoon ful of vanilla, and about 

-J pound of marshmallows, one at a time. 



310 The Neiv England Cook Book 

GREEN GAGES 
PRESERVED IN SYRUP 

Take the gages when nearly ripe, cut the stalks 
about ^ mch from the fruit; put the fruit into cold 
water with a lump of alum about the size of a wal- 
nut, and set them on a slow fire until they come to 
a simmer; take them from the fire and put them 
in cold water, drain and pack them close in a pre- 
serving pan. Pour over them enough clarified sugar 
to cover them, simmer them 2 or 3 minutes, set them 
by in an earthen pan until the next day; drain the 
gages and boil the syinip with more sugar until 
quite thick, put in the syrup and simmer 3 minutes 
more, repeat this each day for 2 days. Boil clar- 
ified sugar until it is very thick, place the gages in 
glasses and pour the sugar over them. Or, drain 
and dry them, in a wire sieve in a slow oven. 

Apricots or egg plums may be done the same way. 

GINGER CANDY 

Boil a pint of clarified sugar until, upon taking 
out a drop of it on a piece of stick, it will become 
brittle when cold. Mix and stir up with it, for a 
common article, about 1 teaspoonful of ground gin- 
ger. If for a superior article, instead of the ground 
ginger, add the white of an egg, beaten up previ- 



Candies and Conserves 311 

ouslj with fine sifted loaf sugar, and 20 drops of 
the strong essence of ginger. 

GINGER LOZENGE CANDY 

Dissolve in \ pint of hot water, 1 ounce of gum 
arabic; when cold stir it up with If pounds of loaf 
sugar, and a teaspoonful of powdered ginger, or 12 
drops of essence of ginger. Roll and beat the whole 
up into a paste; make it into a flat cake, and punch 
out the lozenges with the round stamp. Dry them 
near the fire or in an oven. 

LEMON CANDY 

Take 3 pounds of coarse, brown sugar; add to 
it 3 teacupfuls of water, and set it over a slow fire 
^ hour; put to it a little gum arabic, dissolved in hot 
water; this is to clear it. Continue to take off the 
scum as long as any rises. When perfectly clear, 
try it by dripping a pipestem first into it and then 
into cold water, or by taking a teaspoonful of it into 
a saucer; if it is done it will snap like glass. Flavor 
with the essence of lemon, and cut it into sticks. 

LEMON CHIPS 

Take large smooth-rind lemons, cut off their peel 
in chips, throw the rind in salted water and let stand 



312 The New England Cook Book 

until the next day ; have ready a pan of boiling 
water, throw in the chips and boil until tender. 
Drain them well, and when cool put them in an 
earthen dish, with enough boiling clarified sugar 
to cover them. Let them stand 2 days, then strain 
the syrup, add more sugar and reduce it by boil- 
ing until it is quite thick ; then put in the chips, and 
simmer them a few minutes ; then set them by for 2 
days; repeat this once more and after 2 more days 
in the syrup they will be fit to candy, which must be 
done as follows : 

Take 4 pints of clarified sugar, which will be suf- 
ficient for 6 pounds of chips; boil it until after 
dipping the skimmer into the sugar and by blowing 
strongly through the holes little bubbles will be 
formed, and when the chips are thoroughly drained 
and wiped on a clean cloth, put them in the syrup, 
stirring them about with the skimmer, till you see 
the sugar becomes white ; then take them out with 2 
forks, shake them lightly into a wire sieve, and set 
them in warm place to dry. 

LEMON DROPS 

Dip 1 pound of loaf sugar in water, boil it thick, 
take it off, rub it with the back of a silver spoon to 
the side of your pan, th.cn grate in some lemon-peel, 
boil it up and drop it on paper. If you want it red 
put in a little coclilneal. 



Candies and Conserves 313 

MAPLE SUGAR CANDY 
WITH NUTS 

Break 1 pound of maple sugar into small bits and 
stir into 1 pint of milk. Put into a double boiler 
and cook until the sugar is melted. Set the inside 
boiler right on the stove and boil, stirring steadily, 
until a little of the mixture dropped into cold water 
is brittle. Add a tablespoonful of butter, take from 
the fire, add a cup of broken nut meats, beat hard for 
a minute, turn into greased pans and mark off into 
squares. 

TO MAKE MARCHPANE 
UNBOILED 

Take 1 pound of almonds, blanch them and beat 
them in rose-water. When they are finely beaten, 
put to them ^ pound of sugar, and work it to a 
paste ; spread some on wafers and dry it in the oven. 
When it is cold have ready the white of an egg beaten 
with rose-water and granulated sugar. Let it be 
as thick as butter, then drain your marchpane 
through it, and put it in the oven. It will ice in a lit- 
tle time. Then keep them for use. 

If you have a mind to have j^our marchpane large, 
cut it, when it is rolled out, by a pewterplate, and 
edge it about the top like a tart, and set it in the oven, 
and ice it aforesaid. When the icing rises, take it 



314 The New England Cook Book 

out, and strew colored comfits on it, or serve sweet- 
meats on it. 

MARRONS GLACES 

Choose large chestnuts; boil them until they are 
tender. Remove the skin carefully so as not to break 
the chestnut; put them at once into cold water and 
let them stand for ^ hour; then drain the chestnuts. 
Have ready a syrup of sugar and water and pour it 
over the fruit. Let them stand over night. The 
next day strain off the syrup and boil it again for a 
few minutes ; pour it over the chestnuts. Repeat this 
operation every 24 hours for 4 days. Drain, place 
on a platter covered with paraffine paper and let dry 
in a slow oven. 

MOLASSES CANDY 

(1) 

Two cups of molasses, 1 of sugar, 1 tablespoon- 
ful of vinegar, a piece of butter the size of walnut. 
Boil constantly for 20 minutes, stirring all the time; 
when cool enough to pull, do it quickly, as it will come 
white rapidly. 

MOLASSES CANDY 

(2) 

Take a clean tin or porcelain kettle of large size, 
so that there will be no danger of boiling over; put 



Candies and Conserves 315 

in a sufficient quantity of molasses, place it over a 
good fire, and boil briskly until it will be brittle when 
cooled, which may be known by dipping a little of 
it into a dish of cold water; then pour into well-but- 
tered pans not over 1 inch thick. Let it cool until 
it can be handled, then pull smartly until white. 
Draw out on a clean table into sticks. 

MOLASSES CANDY 

(3) 

2^ cups of molasses, 

1 cup of sugar, 

1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 

A piece of butter the size of a walnut. 

Boil 20 minutes, stirring constantly. 
Pull until white. 

NOUGAT 

Take J pound of sweet almonds and ^ pound of 
bitter almonds. Blanch them by scalding them in 
boiling water. Throw them into cold water and 
take them out and wipe them. Cut in small pieces 
and mix well together. 

Take 1 pound of loaf sugar broken small, and mix 
it with J pint of isinglass melted in a little liot water. 
Boil the sugar and skim it well. When it is quite 
clear, throw in your almonds, having first squeezed 



816 The New England Cook Book 

over them the juice of 2 lemons. Stir the lemons 
well through the sugar; and as soon as they are all 
properly mixed with it take the kettle off the fire. 

Have ready a mold or square tin pan well greased 
with sweet oil. Put your mixture into it a little at 
a time, dispersing the almonds equally through the 
sugar, before it has time to get cold. But if it does 
chill before the almonds are well mixed in it, set it 
on again over the fire to melt. Turn it frequently 
in the molds to prevent its sticking. When it has 
become a hard cake, set the mold for a moment in 
warm water, and turn out the nougat. 



NUT CANDY 

2 cups sugar, 
^ cup milk. 

Boil 10 minutes ; then beat till white, adding nuts 
and vanilla. 

Spread in buttered tins and cut in squares when 
cold. 

ORANGE DROPS 

Grate the rind and squeeze the juice of 1 orange, 
taking care to reject the seeds. Add to this a pinch 
of tartaric acid ; then stir In confectioners' sugar un- 
til stiff enough to form into small balls. 



Candies and Conserves 317 



TO MAKE ORANGE CHIPS 

Pare 12 oranges very thin, put the parings into 
cold water, then boil them very fast until they are 
tender. Take 1^ pounds of sugar and with part of 
the water in which the orange-peels were boiled, and 
let the sugar dissolve ; add the rinds and come to a 
boil ; then remove and let stand 3 or 4 days ; then 
boil them again until the syrup threads from the 
spoon. Remove from the fire and drain through a 
colander. Take out but a few at a time, for if 
they cool too fast, it is difficult to get the syrup from 
them, which must be done by passing every piece 
through your fingers. Put them on paraffine paper 
to dry in the sun, turn frequently. When thoroughly 
dry, put in boxes and keep in a dry place. 

TO CANDY ORANGE 
FLOWERS 

(1) 

Take fresh picked orange flowers, boil them until 
they are tender, drain, and lay them between napkins 
until they are quite dry. To every pound of flow- 
ers allow 1 pound of sugar and ^ pint of water. 
Boil sugar and water until it will stand in a drop. 
Remove from the fire, and when it is almost cold put 
in 3'our flowers, shake them well together, and set 



818 The New England Cook Book 

thein on the stove or in the sun until they begin to 
candy, take them out, put them in glasses to dry, 
turning them constantly until they are dry. 



TO CANDY ORANGE 
FLOWERS 

(2) 

Add ^ pound of granulated sugar to a little or- 
ange-water, boil candy high, then put in a handful of 
orange flowers, keep stirring but do not let them 
boil. When the sugar candies about the flowers, re- 
move the fire and set aside until it is cold. 

TO MAKE PASTILS 

Take confectioners' sugar, perfume it with musk 
and ambergris; add enough gum arabic steeped 
in orange-water to make the sugar into a stiff paste ; 
flavor with a few drops of oil of cloves, oil of cinna- 
mon, or oil of peppermint; then roll them into little 
pellets and press with a seal. Dry them in the sun. 

GLACfi NUTS 

Let 1 pound of granulated sugar dissolve in a 
scant cup of cold water. Boil without stirring un- 
til when a little of the syrup is dropped from a spoon 
into cold water it becomes instantly brittle. Add two 



Candies and Conserves 810 

tablespoonfuls of hot vinegar, remove at once from 
the fire and place pan in a basin of hot water. Dip 
in the nuts with as Httle motion as possible, so that 
the syrup will not granulate. Place nuts on a dish 
to cool. 

Cherries, grapes, oranges, figs, dates and prunes 
may be glaced in the same manner. 

GLACfi PEACHES 

Take peaches that are not quite ripe, pour on 
them boiling water and let them stand 4 hours. Clar- 
ify some sugar, allowing a pound of sugar to a pound 
of fruit, and cook the fruit in the sugar until it is 
tender. Add ^ glass of rum or brandy to each pound 
of fruit; fill jars and seal. 

PEANUT BRITTLE 

Boil together 1 cupful each of molasses and brown 
sugar, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar and £ tablespoon- 
fuls of butter. When a little dropped into cold water 
is brittle, add a cupful of roasted and skinned pea- 
nuts, remove from the fire, beat in a teaspoonful of 
baking soda and pour into broad, greased tins. 

PEPPERMINT DROPS 

Take confectioners' sugar, add a little essence of 
peppermint and enough water to make it a thick 



320 The New England Cook Book 

paste, which you must mix on a plate with a broad 
knife; then put the paste into a pan with a Hp or a 
little spout at one side; melt it over the fire and let 
it come to a boil; take it off and drop it from the 
lip of the pan on to a tray covered with paraffine 
paper. Let the drops be all of the same size or 
shape. As soon as cold, loosen from the paper by 
slipping the point of a knife under each. 

If the mixture congeals before the drops are all 
made, melt it again over the fire. Keep in glass 
jars. 

PINOCHI 

Take 4 cups of brown sugar of a very light 
color, 
1 cup of cream, 

^ pound of English walnuts, and 
A small piece of butter. 

Put sugar, cream and butter together, let boil 
slowly until the syrup forms a ball when a little is 
dropped into cold water. Remove from the fire and 
stir in the nuts ; set aside on plates to cool. 

POPCORN BALLS 

Make an old-fashioned molasses candy and just 
before removing from the fire stir in enough pop- 
corn to thicken it. Take the mixture out by the 



Candies and Conserves 321 

spoonful and roll it just as soon as it can be handled 
into balls. Then roll these over and over in kernels 
of popped com until no more will adhere to the balls. 

CANDIED POPCORN 

Put 4 cups of granulated sugar into a kettle with 
enough water to prevent the sugar from burning, 
and add a piece of butter the size of an ^gg. Cook 
until the syrup is crisp when a little is dropped into 
cold water. Remove from the fire for the moment; 
put in as much popped com as the sugar will take. 
Put the kettle back over a slow fire, and stir briskly 
until the sugar is all taken up and dried and the 
com is again separate. 

CRYSTALLIZED POPCORN 

Pop 3 quarts of corn. In a kettle put in a heap- 
ing teaspoonful of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of water, 
a large tablespoonful of pulverized sugar. Boil until 
it threads, taking care not to boil too long. When 
the thread is reached, throw into the syrup the 
popped com, stir briskly until it is evenly coated, 
take the kettle from the fire and stir until it is cooler 
and each grain is crystallized with sugar. 



322 The New England Cook Book 
PRUNE DAINTY 

Soak your prunes several hours. Stew them until 
tender, and remove the stones. 

Boil together 1^ cups of sugar, -| square of choco- 
late and f cup of milk until a thick syrup is f onned ; 
then add ^ cup of chopped English walnuts or pecan 
meats. 

Remove from the fire, add J teaspoonful of vanilla 
and beat until creamy. Fill the prunes with the mix- 
ture and press the edges together. Dissolve 1 ounce 
of gum arable in a pint of water and dip each prune 
in it, then in granulated sugar. Set it in a warm 
place to dry. 

TO MAKE CONSERVE OF 
RED ROSES 

Take rose buds, cut off the white part from the 
red. Weigh the petals and allow to every pound of 
flowers 2 pounds of sugar. Beat the leaves and 
sugar together. When it is well incorporated put it 
into gallipots and cover with paraffine. It will keep 
7 years. 

TO MAKE ROSE DROPS 

Make a stiff paste of an ounce of dried rose leaves 
beaten to a fine powder and 1 pound of confectioners' 



Candies and Conserves 323 

sugar moistened with lemon-juice. Set it over a slow 
fire and stir it well. When it is melted and scalding 
hot, take it off and drop it on paper. Set it near 
the fire and the next day they can be taken off. 

SCOTCH BUTTER CANDY 

Take 1 pound of sugar, and 1 pint of water ; dis- 
solve and boil. When done, add 1 tablespoonful of 
butter, and enough lemon- juice and oil of lemon 
to flavor. 

SUGARED DATES 

Remove the stone from the date, insert the half 
of a walnut, press together and roll it in powdered 
sugar. 

TO MAKE SUGAR OF ROSES 

Clip off all the white from the red rose buds and 
dry the red in the sun. To an ounce of dried petals 
finely powdered allow 1 pound of sugar. Wet the 
sugar in rose-water, boil it until it candies, then add 
your powder of roses and the juice of a lemon; mix 
it well together; pour into pie plates. Cut into 
lozenges, or whatever shape you please. 



324 The New England Cook Book 

TO CLARIFY SUGAR FOR 
CANDIES 

To every pound of sugar put a large cup of water, 
and put it in a brass or copper kettle, over a slow 
fire, for ^ hour ; pour in a small quantity of isinglass 
and gum arabic dissolved together. This will cause 
all impurities to rise to the surface; skim it as it 
rises. Flavor according to taste. 

All kinds of sugar for candy are boiled as above 
directed. When boiling loaf sugar, add a table- 
spoonful of rum or vinegar, to prevent its becoming 
too brittle whilst making. 

Loaf sugar, when boiled, by pulling and making 
it into small rolls, and twisting a little, will make 
what is called rock or snow. By pulling loaf sugar 
after it is boiled, you can make it as white as snow. 

TO BOIL SUGAR CANDY 
HIGH 

Put 1 pound of sugar in a clean pan with ^ pint 
of water. Set it over a very clear fire, take off the 
scum as it rises, boil it until it looks fine and clear; 
then take out a little with a silver spoon; when it is 
cold, if it will draw a thread from your spoon, it is 
boiled high enough for any kind of sweetmeat; then 



Candies and Conserves 325 

boil your syrup, and when it begins to candy round 
the edge of your pan it is candy height. 

It is a great fault to put any kind of sweetmeat 
into too thick a syrup, especially at first, for it with- 
ers jour fruit, and takes off both beauty and flavor. 

TAFFY 

Put into a pan^ or some shallow vessel, ^ pound 
of butter and 1 pound of brown sugar; set it upon 
the stove, and stir together for 15 minutes, or until 
a little of the mixture dropped into a basin of water 
will break clean between the teeth without sticking 
to them. Any flavoring that is desired — as lemon, 
pineapple, or vanilla — should be added just before 
the cooking is completed. The taff*y, when done, 
should be poured into a shallow dish, which is but- 
tered on the bottom and edges. By drawing a knife 
across it when partially cool, it can easily be broken 
into squares. Molasses may be used instead of 
sugar, but it is not so brittle. 

TAFFY CANDY 

6 cups of white sugar, 
1 cup of vinegar, 
1 cup of water. 
Boil without stirring ^ hour. 



326 The New England Cook Booh 

When done, stir in 1 teaspoonful of soda, dis- 
solved in hot water, and 1 tablespoonful of butter. 
Flavor with vanilla. 



TURKISH DELIGHT 

Make a clear syrup with 1 pound of loaf sugar 
and 1 pint of rose- or orange-flower-water, and clear 
it with the white of an ^^^ and the juice of ^ lemon. 
Dissolve 2 ounces pf finest wheat starch in 1 gill 
of water, let it get very smooth, strain it and add 
to the boiling syrup; boil it until it is quite thick 
and ropy. Have ready S deep plates, one brushed 
with olive oil and one with powdered sugar. Pour 
the mixture into the oiled plate, let it stand 1 or 2 
minutes to cool; turn into the sugared plate, wipe 
off the oil that adheres to it, dust it with powdered 
sugar, cut into blocks, dust again with powdered 
sugar, and let stand till fairly dry, taking care the 
pieces do not stick together. 

COMMON TWIST CANDY 

Boil 3 pounds of common sugar and 1 pint of 
water over a slow fire for ^ hour without skimming. 
When boiled enough take it off; rub the hands over 
with butter; take that which is a little cooled and 
pull it, as you would molasses candy, until it is 
white ; then twist or braid it, and cut it up in strips. 



Candies and Conserves 327 

ENGLISH WALNUT 
CREAMS 

Take fondant and after molding it into some- 
what larger balls, place an English walnut meat on 
either side, pressing it into the cream. Lay them in 
a cool place. 

CREAMED WALNUTS 

White of 1 e,^g^ 
1 pound confectioners' sugar, 
^ tablespoonful cold water, 
f teaspoonful vanilla, 
English walnuts. 

Put Qgg^ water, and vanilla in bowl, and beat un- 
til well blended. Add sugar gradually until stiff 
enough to knead; shape in balls, flatten and place 
halves of walnuts opposite each other on each piece. 



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